Ok went to the parts store and felt a little stupid or they were. I have the infamous ABS & Brake light on so I borrowed their tester then plugged it in under the dash. It pulled all in but I went back in and told him it wouldnt pull any ABS info. He told me there is another port for ABS info but have looked everywhere for a second port.

Is their one? If so where. I could not even find anything online about a seperate ABS testing port. The tester said it could not link to ABS DTY or whatever when I selected test.

2004 Ram 2500 5.7 hemi

TY

 

I don't think there is a code for that, I think it's the speed sensor in the rear diff that is bad when you get the ABS and parking lights. I ruined a front wheel ABS sensor changing out ball joints and it did have a code read by a code scanner, told me which ABS sensor wasn't responding.

 

you will need a DRB III scanner to get that code... best place to go to scan it is the dealer.....

 

No additional port. That must have come out of a Honda lovers mouth, age range in the 20's! 1994-early 2000 Honda's had 3rd party ABS modules that had a different port. Terrible design and idea. I never take or want to hear advice from an Import lover. Totally different ballgame and most have no idea what they are talking about for cars in general, only what they know on hearsay about their current vehicle.

A handheld tuner will pull the ABS codes and all Active Stored codes that the standard scanners wont pull.

As stated, it's prob either your sensor on rear diff or tone ring inside rear diff.

 

He needs the DRB III to scan for those codes.... the OBDII only ready powertrain codes... so it might tell him that he has an ABS fault but won't give him the actual sensor... my best guess is that the sensor on the wheel that you just had fixed is the one that is broken... go back to the shop that did it and have them fix it.

 

They had one of those Innova scanners 3150 w/ABS testing at Auto Zone which said it wouldn't link, ODB tests ran fine. Ran it a fews times but no joy. I am gonna disconnect the fuse to stop the ratcheting. I gotta run from Wash to Salt Lake Sunday for the week, wish I had the ABS but no biggie.

 

Yea he was pretty young lol! That musta been his concrete scraper in the parking lot.

 

So we hit twin falls last night and will be in salt lake in a few hours.
I put the ABS fuse back in. Those breaks hammer so hard its like Al on tool time.
Pull out fuse and truck runs like its off show room floor. I just do not think its a sensor. Any ideas? Something is signaling the unit to turn on the ABS. This ABS runs when its in park and truck has just started. Wouldn't a sensor on the rear axcel need to have the axels turn to trigger it? But i imagine a sensor could open or short depending on the state it needs to trigger. Truck has 100k on it, all maint. is up to date. Avg'd 13.9 mpg through the mountains. Aint to bad i guess. Hate to spend a fortune in a shop.

 

As stated before, you will need a scanner or tuner with DRBIII capabilities to diagnose an ABS fault. Any competent shop will have a scanner capable of doing such. Not sure of pricing in your area but that runs about 45 dollars for a minimum ABS diagnostic at my shop. That will tell you exactly what's wrong.

Based on what you've said, something is causing the ABS to modulate when the truck is not moving, which likely means you have one or more sensors giving a false reading. One bad sensor ( let's say in the rear end) can give a false signal that the truck is moving, meanwhile the front sensors read as stationary, the ABS controller thinks the front wheels are sliding and modulates the ABS. I've seen it before on some 3 channel systems on older Toyota trucks.

 

I am betting it is the front sensors that are damaged...

TO the OP:

Have you had any recent maintenance/repairs done to any of the wheels/brakes/suspension?