I havent been on here in years. Anyway, I need to do my ball joints and I am currently low on cash, I quit work to do EMT school and fire classes. My upper driver said is SHOT but luckily is easy to swap out. Now, I know the lower boots are both torn but have no noticeable play. I don't take the truck in dusty/ dirty terrain so I could baby it for now. My question is, Is it possible to do the upper ball joint/ Arm now and replace the lower later? Basically, Do I need to remove the upper ball joint (ruin the boot) to replace the lower?

I don't see why I could jack the truck up and just undo the lower ball joint while the upper arm and knuckle are supported by a jack.

Also, How hard is it to press out the lowers? Given that I have all the correct tools? I just don't want to be mid-project and find out I can't get the thing out.

As far as experience, Im very mechanically inclined and have installed lifts on smaller trucks, etc.

 

you can replace the uppers without even touching the lowers, and you can get the upper apart without damaging the boot. Just remove the castle nut, and hit the knuckle with a hammer where the ball joint taper goes through the knuckle. Hit it hard enough with a ball peen and it will release the taper without even touching the boot.

As for the lower, it would be helpful to know what year, 2x4/4x4 etc. Im pretty sure most of these trucks have the lower ball joints riveted on from the factory. You cut them off with an air chisel and the new one bolts through the old holes. No press required, air chisel is required however. Not sure of the 4wd lower but that's how all the 2wds I've seen are.

 

maybe it's just this way on the 4x4's, but I know there is a TSB out that you can find from MOOG that shows that you do NOT want to cut the rivets, you just press them out. There is a special tool that you use to get it out. Here is a link to the document from moog.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pd...DYK10-104E.pdf

 

Sorry, I forgot I changed my signature awhile back, Its a 2003 hemi 4x4. My truck also has cast solid steel lower arms, vs the stamped steel on the newer trucks. So I think the ball joint presses straight into the arm with no rivets.

 

Uppers will require an alignment for sure, doing the lowers I think youll be able to get away without an alignment....either way better to wait, save up the extra $50 and do them both at the same time.

Easiest way (other than a hammer) to separate the upper ball joint is using a pitman arm puller (search on Harbor Freight, they are ~$7-8. Worth it IMO.

For the lower ball joint, NO need to cut anything. Just use an air chisel or hammer/screwdriver to bend the flange around the ball joint upwards, then use a Ball Joint Press (again, search harbor freight and also this site, several threads discuss the process ad nauseum) to press the old out and the new in.

Unless you spend $$ on proper adapters, you will have to get creative to get the adapters to fit properly for both insertion and removal (I along with others have described how to modify the HF kit to work without any extra $$ in another thread). That is the key with the cheap kits, to make sure everything is aligned properly before you start cranking on the big C-clamp. If I can free my old BJs without issues after 9 years of use using the cheapo kits, I dont see why anyone else cant without bending the C-clamp (barring salt exposure...i dont have that problem).

 

Funny thing about getting an alignment, I have changed out my tie-rod ends and removed my upper arms to remove the CV axles. I haven't gotten an alignment after. I just precisely mark the spot of the original equipment and re-install in the same place. I have had no effect on the steering of my truck, it'll track perfectly straight for 1/4 mile and my tire wear is almost perfect. Except my rear tires seam to wear quicker than the front. Doesn't make since to me, since I've been driving in gas saving mode ever since gas prices sky rocketed. Anyway, its been about 15-20k miles with no negative effects.

 

Another question, why is JCwhitney.com selling the control arm for so much cheaper than any other place, even moog directly.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/moog-oe-rep...369y2003g139j2

moog sells them for $88
orielly $98
JC $73

 

I posted a thread with some pics couple years ago.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...all-joint.html

 

When I pressed out my lowers I also had to make an adapter so be sure you are able to rig something up once you are that far into the project. The kit I rented didn't have an adapter that would fit a dodge truck so a little cutting and welding of a piece of pipe got me on my way.

 

I was going to do the same thing as you. Just replace the uppers and not do the lowers. I checked them all and the uppers had play but the lowers didn't. (so I thought) I pulled the uppers off and sure enough, the lowers were gone also. I ended up replacing them all. The lowers just cost $20 at orielly auto but I had to rent the tool. It cost $179 for a deposit, but after I was done with it I got that back when I returned it.IMHO I would do them all since you already have it apart. Why waste your time tearing it apart twice when you can do it all in one shot? You don't have to worry about messing something else up also.

BTW I've found the arms cheaper than jc whitney.I ordered mine from this place and they are awesome!!!

http://www.rockauto.com/