hey guys, new here but not new to my truck or working on it. however im in school for auto tech and we are about to regear my truck to the 4.56 motives. its a 2005 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.7L. its rolling 38s. has stock 3.55 gears. now my question here is, is there anything i need to look out for. any troubles anyone has had doing the regearing. ive took an axle apart and put it back together several times but ive never regeared one yet. so this is a project for us. we will be doing the rear first. i have everything as far as gears, bearings seals the whole nine yards. if any of you could help maybe get us a little closer and quick in and out time. like how many shims did you use for the pinion and did you have to shave the pin any? any issues at all we may run into along the way? and also the 8.0 front any issues with it? what type of tools are we looking at? i know it said it takes some special tools but ima go ahead and tell ya... when it comes to special tools for the dodges... my school dont have it lol. we put a lift on it a while back and i ended up buying the torsion bar tool because we didnt have one and we pretty much torched the old rubber bushings out lol. but sorry for the long post and rabbling on and on. and thanks in advance for any help!

 

With my Yukon 4.56 I needed to add another .007 thickness in shim beneath the pinion bearing. I believe factory was .023 and I ended up with .030. I needed to grind a flat on one tooth of the ring gear to facilitate install and removal of the pin. (as per mfg instructions). I used a simple arrangement of long bolts and nuts/washers to compress the clutch pack to remove clutches and side gears.

Sounds like your set. Good luck !!

 

Seven springs custom has a notched pin that is only in the center, 90 degrees out from the pin bolt, so you unbolt it, rotate it 90, push axle in, remove clip and repeat for other side..pin never comes out, just FYI.

Might think about making a pinion make up bearing out of the old one, so you don't have to keep pressing a new bearing off and risking the chance of screwing the cage up. Takes just a min with a little sanding drum on a die grinder.

Also, when you have the shims you want, throw the new bearing in the oven at 400, and put the pinion gear in freezer..30 minutes later, the bearing will fall onto the pinion stem. Make sure to use a hot mit and keep pressing it down on the shims while it cools.

You might also think about using shims in place of the crush sleeve. Its a PITA to get right the first time, but it will enable you to take pinion nut off without worrying about bearing preload. This may not sound like something you would ever do, but I've had mine off many times, clocking the pinion flange and other things, tracing down a source of vibration. When you get it together, check the runout of the pinion flange with a magbase gauge. Mine is .007" at the outside of the flange, and this was enough to bring on a new vibration at 82-85mph with that gear ratio.

 

thanks guys. install was interesting. alot of measurements for the pinion depth. still dont have a quite correct. we must have not measured right. but we ended up going without any shims. but the tooth pattern is off but no noise when driving it. thinking bout putting the stock shim back in and add .007 like you guys was saying that should fix it. but im already loving these 4.56 gears it gained sooo much power back and nomore having to put it in tow haul. i gained back my 5th gear. i did a 0-60 run yesterday and it was quite impressive. i ran 7.11 0-60 and thats on a 11 inch lift and running 38x15.50 mud graps. then i did my 1/4 mile today. it ran something like 15.77 at 87mph. i was like damn!!! lol ill have to add some pics of the superchip data logging.

 

When you set the back lash for the final adjustment use the small holes on the outside of the case were the gasket goes with a punch and hammer makes it much easier.