Cant crack open the bleeders on my brakes
Did a lot of work yesterday, flushed the coolant, changed the washer fluid, and started to flush the brake lines.
The brake fluid was dirty and I know a lot of the fluids are original from the previous owner so I wanted to change everything to keep my own log book. I sucked out most of what was in the brake booster container and put fresh dot 3 in. Went to crack open the bleeder as my sister pumped the brake and couldnt budge it.
So i put PB blaster on it and tried a few hours later and still couldnt get it. tried hitting the wrench with a hammer but that wouldnt get it and I didnt want to break the nipple off. So through out the day I sprayed it again a couple times and left it over night. Tried again this morning and still no luck.
Should I keep spraying it? I dont think the previous owner ever did this and there are 54k miles on it so I am sure they could be seized in there good. Or should I heat it up with a propane tortch?
I just want to flush out the lines for a piece of mind.
-Thanks
The brake fluid was dirty and I know a lot of the fluids are original from the previous owner so I wanted to change everything to keep my own log book. I sucked out most of what was in the brake booster container and put fresh dot 3 in. Went to crack open the bleeder as my sister pumped the brake and couldnt budge it.
So i put PB blaster on it and tried a few hours later and still couldnt get it. tried hitting the wrench with a hammer but that wouldnt get it and I didnt want to break the nipple off. So through out the day I sprayed it again a couple times and left it over night. Tried again this morning and still no luck.
Should I keep spraying it? I dont think the previous owner ever did this and there are 54k miles on it so I am sure they could be seized in there good. Or should I heat it up with a propane tortch?
I just want to flush out the lines for a piece of mind.
-Thanks
I had a lot of trouble with mine too, a few weeks ago. I ended up using a 6 pt, 10mm deepwell socket, with a breaker bar (1/4" drive) and worked the nipples back and forth to finally get it loosened up enough to bleed. You might do this to all bleeders first then try actually doing the brakes, if you snap one off, you'll need to get a new caliper, sucks but it happens. I just did 2 new rears because of a seized piston.
Try working back and forth with moderate pressure, almost a like jerk. It will often give it just enough movement to allow you to work with it to loosen.
If you do decide to try this, MAKE SURE that you're using a 6 pt, or you may round it.
If you do decide to try this, MAKE SURE that you're using a 6 pt, or you may round it.
Last edited by Gone Fishin; May 22, 2013 at 08:38 PM.
after you get screws loose, when you put them back in DO use anti-seize compound on all threads. as a mater of fact put anti-seize compound on all threads on the bottom of the truck. in 70,000 miles youll be glad you did.
Thanks guys. Unfortunatly I snaped one off. There is so much rust on them that they wouldnt move at all. I think I am going to buy all new calipers because they are cheap enough and I would feel a lot better having new ones on that way I can take care of them the way they should have been kept
Good Call. Sucks when that happens, but you may have ended up like mine, new rotors, new TC pads, seized piston.
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Yea I would like to make sure everything is taken care of properly. The truck runs great its just the previous owner didnt keep up with a whole lot. But being that it only has 54k on it I can catch up on the maintenince which I have been. Truck runs better and better the more I do. But I really want to make sure I will always be able to stop haha



