truck shakes when i hit the brakes
ORIGINAL: IrishBull
Need a little more info. What year and mileage, primary use, or recent really hard bumps?
Need a little more info. What year and mileage, primary use, or recent really hard bumps?
Sounds like one of your brake drums in the rear are warped. If it is an older truck, Very easy to replace, just take the wheel
off and pull on the rotor (u will probably need to tap it with a hammer or rubber malet)
It should slide right off. It goes back on the way it came off. You probably wont need to bang it back on. It should slide right on. Hope this will help you.
I've done this before on my '87 Ram, fixed her right up. R.V.
off and pull on the rotor (u will probably need to tap it with a hammer or rubber malet)
It should slide right off. It goes back on the way it came off. You probably wont need to bang it back on. It should slide right on. Hope this will help you.
I've done this before on my '87 Ram, fixed her right up. R.V.
First of all, welcome to the site. I find it to be filled with vast amounts of good info and knowledge regarding our trucks.
2002+ have discs all around. You do probably have warped rotors, especially if it is the original rotors. Yes, you can change them out. No, it is not that hard. Just be sure to bleed the brakes as you push the piston into the caliper instead of pushing the fluid back into the system. It can mess up the ABS sensors if you force the fluid back through them. It might also be a good idea to replace the brake fluid by replacing with new fluid as you bleed the old stuff out.
Many hear have good luck with the Powerslot rotors and either Hawk pads or Akebono ACT pads.
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.
2002+ have discs all around. You do probably have warped rotors, especially if it is the original rotors. Yes, you can change them out. No, it is not that hard. Just be sure to bleed the brakes as you push the piston into the caliper instead of pushing the fluid back into the system. It can mess up the ABS sensors if you force the fluid back through them. It might also be a good idea to replace the brake fluid by replacing with new fluid as you bleed the old stuff out.
Many hear have good luck with the Powerslot rotors and either Hawk pads or Akebono ACT pads.
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.
ORIGINAL: osteodoc08
First of all, welcome to the site. I find it to be filled with vast amounts of good info and knowledge regarding our trucks.
2002+ have discs all around. You do probably have warped rotors, especially if it is the original rotors. Yes, you can change them out. No, it is not that hard. Just be sure to bleed the brakes as you push the piston into the caliper instead of pushing the fluid back into the system. It can mess up the ABS sensors if you force the fluid back through them. It might also be a good idea to replace the brake fluid by replacing with new fluid as you bleed the old stuff out.
Many hear have good luck with the Powerslot rotors and either Hawk pads or Akebono ACT pads.
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.
First of all, welcome to the site. I find it to be filled with vast amounts of good info and knowledge regarding our trucks.
2002+ have discs all around. You do probably have warped rotors, especially if it is the original rotors. Yes, you can change them out. No, it is not that hard. Just be sure to bleed the brakes as you push the piston into the caliper instead of pushing the fluid back into the system. It can mess up the ABS sensors if you force the fluid back through them. It might also be a good idea to replace the brake fluid by replacing with new fluid as you bleed the old stuff out.
Many hear have good luck with the Powerslot rotors and either Hawk pads or Akebono ACT pads.
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Open the bleed screw before you push the pads in with a C-clamp. I also like to flush the fluid. You take a piece of tubing, but it over the bleed screw, put it into a small pan or something that has brake fluid in it. Then you want to open up the bleed screw until you see the brake fluid flowing into the tube and out of the system. Have someone pump the brakes to get rid of the old fluid. BE SURE TO KEEP THE RESEVIOR FULL! You don't want to introduce the air into the system. You'll notice the old fluid is a nasty greenish fluid and the new fluid should be relatively clear. When you do it, start at the wheel the farthest from the master cylinder (Rear passenger side) then go to the rear driver's, front passengers and front drivers side. Be sure to use Dot 3 or Dot 4. If you use Dot 5 you'll ruin the system as it has a special type of silicon additive and mostly used in high performance and street bike systems. The idea is to force all the air out when you normally bleed it, but when you bleed it this time you want to get all the old fluid out. This is a general guide and by no means is it 100%. Check a manual. (my little disclaimer.) If anyone else has some stuff I left out, which I'm sure I did as I'm in a rush, please feel free to chime in.
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ORIGINAL: osteodoc08
Open the bleed screw before you push the pads in with a C-clamp. I also like to flush the fluid. You take a piece of tubing, but it over the bleed screw, put it into a small pan or something that has brake fluid in it. Then you want to open up the bleed screw until you see the brake fluid flowing into the tube and out of the system. Have someone pump the brakes to get rid of the old fluid. BE SURE TO KEEP THE RESEVIOR FULL! You don't want to introduce the air into the system. You'll notice the old fluid is a nasty greenish fluid and the new fluid should be relatively clear. When you do it, start at the wheel the farthest from the master cylinder (Rear passenger side) then go to the rear driver's, front passengers and front drivers side. Be sure to use Dot 3 or Dot 4. If you use Dot 5 you'll ruin the system as it has a special type of silicon additive and mostly used in high performance and street bike systems. The idea is to force all the air out when you normally bleed it, but when you bleed it this time you want to get all the old fluid out. This is a general guide and by no means is it 100%. Check a manual. (my little disclaimer.) If anyone else has some stuff I left out, which I'm sure I did as I'm in a rush, please feel free to chime in.
Open the bleed screw before you push the pads in with a C-clamp. I also like to flush the fluid. You take a piece of tubing, but it over the bleed screw, put it into a small pan or something that has brake fluid in it. Then you want to open up the bleed screw until you see the brake fluid flowing into the tube and out of the system. Have someone pump the brakes to get rid of the old fluid. BE SURE TO KEEP THE RESEVIOR FULL! You don't want to introduce the air into the system. You'll notice the old fluid is a nasty greenish fluid and the new fluid should be relatively clear. When you do it, start at the wheel the farthest from the master cylinder (Rear passenger side) then go to the rear driver's, front passengers and front drivers side. Be sure to use Dot 3 or Dot 4. If you use Dot 5 you'll ruin the system as it has a special type of silicon additive and mostly used in high performance and street bike systems. The idea is to force all the air out when you normally bleed it, but when you bleed it this time you want to get all the old fluid out. This is a general guide and by no means is it 100%. Check a manual. (my little disclaimer.) If anyone else has some stuff I left out, which I'm sure I did as I'm in a rush, please feel free to chime in.
Its not a difficult as it sounds but if your nervous about it or not good mechanicly you may wanna have it done. Guys the do them day in and day get pretty quick at them. One thing if you nervous about it and a shop does it you also get a warranty. If your good with your hands its not that hard really.
I changed my rotors and replaced my pads with ceramic ones at about 25,000 miles, got both at Auto Zone, $25 a piece for the rotors and $35 for the pad set. There was not a need to replace the brake fluid in my truck, it was still clear as the day I bought it new. I simple unscrewed the cap(make sure you screw it back on once your done) and carefully c-clamped the pistons back in on each of the fronts and it had no effect on the abs whatsoever. It totally cured the shaking and now it stops much better with less brake dust.



