I think you need to diagnose the ignition switch. There are multiple run mode outputs. Some can work while others are not working. There are outputs for blower motor, reverse lights (going through fuse box). Could be the wiring but I think you need to open the steering column so you can probe at the ignition switch connector.

 

I was just checking prices on the net. Don't know anything about the company.
http://enginesdirect.net/s/index.php...9f5625dd03b2ed
I had my 5.7 engine rebuilt by a shop in Michigan. It cost $2800 but I was in Michigan when the truck broke down. I needed it back up and running quickly. Not sure if you can find a local rebuild shop. They might be a little higher but in case of warranty issue is might be better to get it from a local source.

 

The $2800 was just for the rebuild not the removal and install part.

 

Wrong thread, GC... lol my engine is fine.

As far as the ignition switch, yes, it might be worth a look, has a lot of play in it and you can turn it without the key fully-seated. Wouldn't think just the internal key pins would cause an electrical circuit not to work when the steering wheel lock and accessories (lights, chimes, etc) function, but I haven't seen what the switch looks like and maybe you're right about the pin outputs.

Any pointers to a steering column disassembly how-to with pics? Couldn't find one on here. Can you have the dealership re-key the ignition switch for the correct key to keep the doors matched?

 

The cylinder just has to be ordered with your VIN at the dealer....

so you're options are to either order the lock cylinder from the dealer with your VIN, or order one from somewhere else, and then purchase one or two blank Key FOBs and have them programmed by the dealer.

The first option is less expensive as you won't have to get your existing keys reprogrammed.

 

I have not removed the upper and lower steering column covers on my truck. I did do it once on my dodge stratus. I think there are just a few screws holding them today. The shop manage just say to remove them so you should be able to figure it out looking at it. The key cylinder is separate from the ignition switch. So if the switch is bad no problem with the key.

 

you will likely need to drill the bolts out as they are most likely security nuts that have a breakaway head... basically you tighten them down during install with a socket and they snap once they reach proper torque.

 

Got a quote from a Dodge dealership close to me today. $138 in labor and $114 for the lock cylinder.

Not knowing the internals of it I hesitated to decide one way or another whether it was the lock cylinder or the swich - probably need to take mine apart first to figure out which one.

Any tips before I dive into it? Blower motor stopped working this morning, right when the 20 degree rains came in, fogged up my windshield and froze me out quite nicely.

So if I can turn the lock cylinder with anything (screwdriver, etc), then we may be looking at both the cylinder AND the switch? Need to see them apart.

 

Update:

Replacing switch brought back the reverse lights and power to the ABS circuits but still no ABS and no rear running lamps.

Does anyone have the wiring diagram to know which wire in which bundle goes to both the upper rear red brake light and rear running lamps? (the clips under the fuse box are colored). Then I could just splice off the wire where it still has power before it's cut/shorted, wherever that may be, and run it back to both assemblies.

Will also replace the left front ABS sensor and see if that brings back my ABS. Will have to also troubleshoot replacing radio with an aftermarket one and the a/c controller head to see if I get power back to the heat controller and direction controller for the a/c.

One thing at a time I guess.

 

Replaced the AC head unit with a known good one, that didn't fix the problem either. Going to ring out the power leads, I suspect it's not getting power to the other side of the circuit. According to the wiring diagram, the blower power line has a different source than the temp and vent selector.

It looks as though the power comes out from the junction block and goes to the temp controller, then comes out of the temp controller and into the blend door controller (both in the ac head unit), so if the power isn't coming into the control panel, the blend doors don't have power either.