Grid Heater Light
2006 Ram 3500 w/ 5.9L Cummins, need some help on why my truck would do this.... I will drive my truck for over an hour and the Grid Heater Light will come on. Truck is running fine and at operating temperature. When light comes on, it will ding several times. Doesn't seem to run funny or turn on any other warring lights.
After getting to my destination and the truck cooling down, I will start it up again and light will be on, dinging four times. I will drive another 30-40 min and the light will turn off.
This has happened to me before and the Grid Heater light will stay on. Took it to the dealer and they scanned the truck, said it was a Low Voltage code. They told me that everything was fine with the Grid Heater, but found that I had a bad fuel injector.
So now with the Grid Heater light turning on and off, I am worried that there is a bigger underlying issue.
Has anyone experienced this issue or how to trouble shoot it???
I know all about the Grid Heater Delete and that people have done that, not looking to remove it, just want to know When the Grid Heater light comes on, what does it mean and how to fix it.
After getting to my destination and the truck cooling down, I will start it up again and light will be on, dinging four times. I will drive another 30-40 min and the light will turn off.
This has happened to me before and the Grid Heater light will stay on. Took it to the dealer and they scanned the truck, said it was a Low Voltage code. They told me that everything was fine with the Grid Heater, but found that I had a bad fuel injector.
So now with the Grid Heater light turning on and off, I am worried that there is a bigger underlying issue.
Has anyone experienced this issue or how to trouble shoot it???
I know all about the Grid Heater Delete and that people have done that, not looking to remove it, just want to know When the Grid Heater light comes on, what does it mean and how to fix it.
Hers a test I found online. unplug the ambient air temp sensor. (located behind the air horn). Remove air horn, becareful of the gasket. Have another person turn the key on, watch the grid heater see if it gets hot. (will glow). If work the grid heater and relay are good, and you have a bad ambient air sensor. Hope this helps
Last night I cleaned the battery connections really good, not a lot of build-up but some.
Before I did this, I did the self code test. The one there you hold down the "Odometer Reset" then turn the key to "On", then release the "OD Reset". It makes the gauges go weird and some numbers come up where the mileage read out is. However when I did this, I did get some numbers to pop up, but non of them were "P" codes. Am I doing something wrong??
Before I did this, I did the self code test. The one there you hold down the "Odometer Reset" then turn the key to "On", then release the "OD Reset". It makes the gauges go weird and some numbers come up where the mileage read out is. However when I did this, I did get some numbers to pop up, but non of them were "P" codes. Am I doing something wrong??
yes you looked for C-Codes which apply to the electrical system.
You need to try the key trick in which you turn the key from off to on 3 times ending with the truck in the on position so it will go like:
Starting w/ off---on-off-on-off-on
The codes will display if there are any present, if none are present then you will just see a blank display followed by the word "done"
Hope that helps.
You need to try the key trick in which you turn the key from off to on 3 times ending with the truck in the on position so it will go like:
Starting w/ off---on-off-on-off-on
The codes will display if there are any present, if none are present then you will just see a blank display followed by the word "done"
Hope that helps.
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Izero
When I do your key trick, I don't need to hold down the Odometer Reset do I??
Also, once I pull the codes, if there is any. How do I reset them or clear the codes. Is it just a matter of removing the Negative Cable like on a car??
When I do your key trick, I don't need to hold down the Odometer Reset do I??
Also, once I pull the codes, if there is any. How do I reset them or clear the codes. Is it just a matter of removing the Negative Cable like on a car??
no do not hold down the button.
You can pull off the negative terminal from the battery and then pump the brake pedal to fully discharge all the stored electricity.
Wait 30-60 more seconds and reconnect.
the DTCs should be gone, but they may reappear if the problem is not fixed.
Let us know what the Codes are.
You can pull off the negative terminal from the battery and then pump the brake pedal to fully discharge all the stored electricity.
Wait 30-60 more seconds and reconnect.
the DTCs should be gone, but they may reappear if the problem is not fixed.
Let us know what the Codes are.
Izero,
I tried your key trick last night, and didn't have any luck. Didn't see any codes or the "done" either.
I did the Starting w/ off---on-off-on-off-on
How long do you keep it in the "On" position before turning it back off?
Is is fast or do you let it run through the "On" cycle that all the lights turn on and then off?
I tried your key trick last night, and didn't have any luck. Didn't see any codes or the "done" either.
I did the Starting w/ off---on-off-on-off-on
How long do you keep it in the "On" position before turning it back off?
Is is fast or do you let it run through the "On" cycle that all the lights turn on and then off?



