Yes sirrrr, mode 2 door is the hardest door to change, it does sound like the mode 2 door

 

Thanks. I'll check it out.

 

Are these doors breaking due to the white axle adapter stop lugs breaking first?

That is what happened on my rear air in my '02 Durango. A new axle adapter from Chrysler was 12 bucks. The stop lugs are much heavier which indicates to me this is where the flaw originates.

Picture in post #10 here shows a white stop lug that has broke off, what damage it caused to the door, and the new replacement axle adapter................

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...orks-fine.html

 

great it sounds like a have a bad mode 2 door too. When i put on floor mode it comes out defroster too. I can not believe that something so hard to fix is made like this. Chrysler should make good on this for us what a pos! Anyone is NJ area want a side job??lol i dont want to be bother with this job.

 

Yeah, it's hardly worth the cost, but you can work around it by pushing the flap with a stick. I used a 3/8" dowel. Just look in the floor vent on the driver's side with a flash light, and you will see the flap. You can push it open while turning the setting to "Floor" and it might stay open. For me, I just left the dowel rod in the vent holding the door open. I'd love to have this fixed, it's a huge annoyance, but the lowest quote I got was $650 + parts. I might try it myself this summer, but I'm not too motivated as long as the stick works.

 

All,
So last weekend my father and I took on the Full Heater Treater Door Fix.
Yes, we removed the dash to do this!
I have to say, it was not as bad as I thought it would be. In fact the hardest part was disconnecting the AC lines on the heater box.
I have scheduled about three days worth of work to do this and had extra parts on hand just in case.
Pulling the dash out... well not fully removing it from the truck, but pulling it back far enough that you can get to the heater box and remove it.
I have the factory shop manuals for my truck and this helped a lot. Told us what to remove first and in what order.
After we had the dash pulled back and supported by some ratchet straps, we had full access to the heater box. I was keeping my fingers crossed that we didn't have to remove the heater box, that we could replace it right in the truck. No such luck. Plus it was easier in the long run to pull it out of the truck and get it on the bench.
While it was in the truck we looked at all the actuators and doors to see what was really broken and what was still good.
What i found out that I didn't get from any of the articles or research that i had done before, was that the Mode 1 door that is on the far left/drivers side of the heater box really controlled more than one door. It has a linkage rod that goes to a little black plastic piece (broken) that controls the doors for the rear vents. See Picture. Since the mode 1 door stops had busted, the actuator had bent the metal rod around the actuator shaft.
I was not expecting this and was worried that I was going to have to order part from dodge. So I made a call to Chris at Heater Treater - Great Guy and Lots of Help - he told me that when they designed these doors, they disable this rod that runs the rear air vents. In fact, they glue the doors about 2/4 of the way open for the rear air vents. Then when you put in the new heater treater mode 1 door, you will have to trim down the actuator mounts about 1/2". This is because the heater treater door is shorter than the OEM stock door.
We did all of this once the heater box was on the work bench. Much easier that way.
We started with the re-circulation door, super easier to replace.
Next was the Mode 1 and Mode 2 doors. I explain the Mode 1 door already, and the Mode 2 door was real easy to replace also.
Since my truck is Dual Zone heat and AC, the Blend Doors are controlled by separate actuators. Chris had told me that these rarely go bad, that the other will fail before this..... well all mine did fail and this blend door did also. However it was hard to tell. After pulling the two doors out, we noticed that there was a crack on the shaft of the doors. So thinking ahead, i had ordered these two doors from Dodge a week before. So i had them in hand to put back in. Now you can get this door from Heater Treater but it in only made for the single zone heat and AC, so it would have turned my dual to single. Since I had gone through all this work, I was not going to do this. It was late at night and my father and I were super tired from working all day on this little project. Well we didn't put the blend door in correctly, they should have been flipped about. Well I snapped the shaft of it. I was pissed, thought it was going to halt our whole plan, i would have to order new ones and that would take about a week. Well we put our heads together and were able to glue/screw on the piece that I had broken off and make it work. In fact we had to drill and tap the shaft, so i think it will hold up better than stock. Find out!
After getting all of the doors replaced, we put everything back together, it was time to put the heater back in the truck.
We then connected the batteries and went to turn the key to on. We waited to hear the actuators go through their cycle and test the stop points. It was hard to hear but you could hear each door going from open to close. After it was done, we turned the discharge selection **** to each position and listen to them all work.
I had the AC recharged and it is still working a week later.

It is definitely a two person job and take a lot of time but it was worth saving 1000s of bucks by not taking it somewhere.
Hardest part was disconnecting the AC lines, must have taken use two or three hours. Even with those stupid little tools that pop the spring to get the lines apart.