12V outlet issues
#11
Ok it makes 0 sense in my mind to install an inverter to take 13 VDC and step it up to 120 VAC just so a charger can then step it back down to around 5 VDC. I have taken the socket out of the arm rest and have the bare plug with 2 wires on it in my hand. They are dead. My question is does anyone know what fuse feeds the arm rest or have a wiring diagram for it.
This is exactly why XBOX 360 had that "recall" b/c the solder inside the machine was melting and causing connection problems.
Proof for the non-believers (and b/c I can't exactly scan my MECP Certification study materials)
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electrical/solder.htm
Now that we have more information that the wires are dead you need to check Fuse #42
I will note the fuse #'s (based off of 2004 Ram 1500 b/c no year was given)
Cigarette lighter = Fuse #29
Power Outlet = Fuse #26
Center Console = Fuse #42
^THESE ARE FUSE #'S OFF THE WIRING DIAGRAMS NOT FUSE LOCATIONS!^
I believe that location 9 is for the center console and cigarette socket is location 18. (The inside of your fuse box will tell you what it is)
If replacing the fuse does nothing for you then you may have burnt the ground wire due to over draw (easy to do with such small gauge wire).
If you have a volt meter or multi-meter with over-current protection then you can run a wire to ground (RUN A NEW ONE) and measure the "hot" lead off of the outlet that is dead to the new ground you just made... [Note: If you test leads are long enough you can just touch bare metal on the chassis if you can reach.]
If you still can't find voltage than you may want to get under the center console and see if the wiring harness is plugged in all the way.
If you have a 2006+ with TIPM then the TIPM might be disabling the lighter because it is seeing a fault, in which case it might be picked up by pulling C-Codes. [The Method for pulling C-Codes can be found in the link in my signature.]
Good Luck, and let us know what you figure out.
[edit]
here is a link to 2008 wiring diagram, scroll to page 24 of the PDF. (mods remove if this link is not allowed and sorry in advance if it's not allowed to be posted)
http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2008/d...owermodule.pdf
If the mods remove the link from my post just message me and I can e-mail it to you or something.
Last edited by Izero; 12-05-2013 at 09:03 AM.
#14
#17
If you checked both to ground and get no voltage, did you ohm out both to ground to check for an open? One of them should be the negative wire and show continuity to ground of an ohm or less. Ideally zero ohms. The other should be the hot wire and should not be shorted to ground.
Not sure of the circuitry but may have to have the key on if it uses switched grounds. Key on but engine not running is what I mean. Try both ways. Key on/off.
Not sure of the circuitry but may have to have the key on if it uses switched grounds. Key on but engine not running is what I mean. Try both ways. Key on/off.
Last edited by kenneymc; 12-05-2013 at 03:16 PM.
#18
If you checked both to ground and get no voltage, did you ohm out both to ground to check for an open? One of them should be the negative wire and show continuity to ground of an ohm or less. Ideally zero ohms. The other should be the hot wire and should not be shorted to ground.
Not sure of the circuitry but may have to have the key on if it uses switched grounds. Key on but engine not running is what I mean. Try both ways. Key on/off.
Not sure of the circuitry but may have to have the key on if it uses switched grounds. Key on but engine not running is what I mean. Try both ways. Key on/off.
I think there is a wiring problem for sure... something is shorted....
#19
The smart thing to do would be to buy a power inverter and wire it directly to the battery with a fused link. I have a 200w inverter in my truck for the same thing, laptops on long drives.
Second thing, download a copy of the Service Manual and use the electrical section not only to see what fuses cover which circuits, but also to identify and trace your wiring
Third, go get you volt meter and test each and every fuse in the box. Don't assume and don't pull them and do a visual. Test each one
Last, if you verified all fuses are good and identified which fuse covers the circuit and test for voltage at the 12v socket harness and no voltage it there, time to dig in the Service Manual for those electrical schematics OR run a new 12 wire to the socket and do the smart thing and get a power inverter
Second thing, download a copy of the Service Manual and use the electrical section not only to see what fuses cover which circuits, but also to identify and trace your wiring
Third, go get you volt meter and test each and every fuse in the box. Don't assume and don't pull them and do a visual. Test each one
Last, if you verified all fuses are good and identified which fuse covers the circuit and test for voltage at the 12v socket harness and no voltage it there, time to dig in the Service Manual for those electrical schematics OR run a new 12 wire to the socket and do the smart thing and get a power inverter
#20
The smart thing to do would be to buy a power inverter and wire it directly to the battery with a fused link. I have a 200w inverter in my truck for the same thing, laptops on long drives.
Second thing, download a copy of the Service Manual and use the electrical section not only to see what fuses cover which circuits, but also to identify and trace your wiring
Third, go get you volt meter and test each and every fuse in the box. Don't assume and don't pull them and do a visual. Test each one
Last, if you verified all fuses are good and identified which fuse covers the circuit and test for voltage at the 12v socket harness and no voltage it there, time to dig in the Service Manual for those electrical schematics OR run a new 12 wire to the socket and do the smart thing and get a power inverter
Second thing, download a copy of the Service Manual and use the electrical section not only to see what fuses cover which circuits, but also to identify and trace your wiring
Third, go get you volt meter and test each and every fuse in the box. Don't assume and don't pull them and do a visual. Test each one
Last, if you verified all fuses are good and identified which fuse covers the circuit and test for voltage at the 12v socket harness and no voltage it there, time to dig in the Service Manual for those electrical schematics OR run a new 12 wire to the socket and do the smart thing and get a power inverter
Let us know what you find.