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12V outlet issues

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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:50 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hfd419
Ok it makes 0 sense in my mind to install an inverter to take 13 VDC and step it up to 120 VAC just so a charger can then step it back down to around 5 VDC. I have taken the socket out of the arm rest and have the bare plug with 2 wires on it in my hand. They are dead. My question is does anyone know what fuse feeds the arm rest or have a wiring diagram for it.
I will note that MikeHTally is partially correct, high quality solder melts at 700 *F... but there are low quality solders that meet manufacturing specs that melt around 200-300 *F, which in an arc or over draw situation can be very quickly reached. (Go measure your 150-200 W solder guns temperatures... they won't be 700 *F)

This is exactly why XBOX 360 had that "recall" b/c the solder inside the machine was melting and causing connection problems.

Proof for the non-believers (and b/c I can't exactly scan my MECP Certification study materials)

http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electrical/solder.htm


Now that we have more information that the wires are dead you need to check Fuse #42

I will note the fuse #'s (based off of 2004 Ram 1500 b/c no year was given)

Cigarette lighter = Fuse #29
Power Outlet = Fuse #26
Center Console = Fuse #42

^THESE ARE FUSE #'S OFF THE WIRING DIAGRAMS NOT FUSE LOCATIONS!^

I believe that location 9 is for the center console and cigarette socket is location 18. (The inside of your fuse box will tell you what it is)

If replacing the fuse does nothing for you then you may have burnt the ground wire due to over draw (easy to do with such small gauge wire).

If you have a volt meter or multi-meter with over-current protection then you can run a wire to ground (RUN A NEW ONE) and measure the "hot" lead off of the outlet that is dead to the new ground you just made... [Note: If you test leads are long enough you can just touch bare metal on the chassis if you can reach.]

If you still can't find voltage than you may want to get under the center console and see if the wiring harness is plugged in all the way.

If you have a 2006+ with TIPM then the TIPM might be disabling the lighter because it is seeing a fault, in which case it might be picked up by pulling C-Codes. [The Method for pulling C-Codes can be found in the link in my signature.]

Good Luck, and let us know what you figure out.

[edit]

here is a link to 2008 wiring diagram, scroll to page 24 of the PDF. (mods remove if this link is not allowed and sorry in advance if it's not allowed to be posted)

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2008/d...owermodule.pdf

If the mods remove the link from my post just message me and I can e-mail it to you or something.
 

Last edited by Izero; Dec 5, 2013 at 09:03 AM.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 02:21 PM
  #12  
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So the arm rest and cigarette lighter are on the same fuse?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hfd419
So the arm rest and cigarette lighter are on the same fuse?
Looks like it to me, yup...

So wiring and/or solders might be the issue.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 02:32 PM
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I know my cig lighter is Fuse #40 and the outlet to the right of the radio on the bezel is Fuse #38. The arm rest has a black and brown wire on the connector and is DEAD. I checked both to chassis ground and neither register any voltage.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by hfd419
I know my cig lighter is Fuse #40 and the outlet to the right of the radio on the bezel is Fuse #38. The arm rest has a black and brown wire on the connector and is DEAD. I checked both to chassis ground and neither register any voltage.
What year truck do you have?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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2007 SLT Quad Cab
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 03:12 PM
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If you checked both to ground and get no voltage, did you ohm out both to ground to check for an open? One of them should be the negative wire and show continuity to ground of an ohm or less. Ideally zero ohms. The other should be the hot wire and should not be shorted to ground.

Not sure of the circuitry but may have to have the key on if it uses switched grounds. Key on but engine not running is what I mean. Try both ways. Key on/off.
 

Last edited by kenneymc; Dec 5, 2013 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kenneymc
If you checked both to ground and get no voltage, did you ohm out both to ground to check for an open? One of them should be the negative wire and show continuity to ground of an ohm or less. Ideally zero ohms. The other should be the hot wire and should not be shorted to ground.

Not sure of the circuitry but may have to have the key on if it uses switched grounds. Key on but engine not running is what I mean. Try both ways. Key on/off.
The key is correct, but I believe the one inside the center console is ALWAYS ON....

I think there is a wiring problem for sure... something is shorted....
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 12:12 AM
  #19  
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The smart thing to do would be to buy a power inverter and wire it directly to the battery with a fused link. I have a 200w inverter in my truck for the same thing, laptops on long drives.

Second thing, download a copy of the Service Manual and use the electrical section not only to see what fuses cover which circuits, but also to identify and trace your wiring

Third, go get you volt meter and test each and every fuse in the box. Don't assume and don't pull them and do a visual. Test each one

Last, if you verified all fuses are good and identified which fuse covers the circuit and test for voltage at the 12v socket harness and no voltage it there, time to dig in the Service Manual for those electrical schematics OR run a new 12 wire to the socket and do the smart thing and get a power inverter
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by weedahoe
The smart thing to do would be to buy a power inverter and wire it directly to the battery with a fused link. I have a 200w inverter in my truck for the same thing, laptops on long drives.

Second thing, download a copy of the Service Manual and use the electrical section not only to see what fuses cover which circuits, but also to identify and trace your wiring

Third, go get you volt meter and test each and every fuse in the box. Don't assume and don't pull them and do a visual. Test each one

Last, if you verified all fuses are good and identified which fuse covers the circuit and test for voltage at the 12v socket harness and no voltage it there, time to dig in the Service Manual for those electrical schematics OR run a new 12 wire to the socket and do the smart thing and get a power inverter
^ Exactly what I said.

Let us know what you find.
 
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