3rd Gen Ram Tech 2002-2008 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2002 through 2008 Rams Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Old 08-06-2015, 01:38 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: Specifications & General Maintenance
Print Wikipost

Aftermarket Remote Starter Installation

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-09-2014, 08:35 PM
team_realtree's Avatar
team_realtree
team_realtree is offline
Professional
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Aftermarket Remote Starter Installation

I purchased a ProStart CT3300 remote starter for my 2006 Ram 1500 slt truck.

After reading the manual front to back installation seems like it will be a breeze except it doesn't once mention bypassing the anti theft devices of.the truck. I was under the impression you need another bypass module to trick the computer into reading the chip in your key?

Anyone know about this? I know there is a universal bypass module that you physically stick an extra key fob into and leave in the truck but that poses theft issues.
 
  #2  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:52 PM
dirtydog's Avatar
dirtydog
dirtydog is offline
Moderate User
Dodge Forum Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Cheap units require A TON of wiring.

More expensive flash programmers that dont need to have a key only require like 3 or 4 wiring points because they ruin off canbus circuitry. MUCH easier and better install!
You'll have to have one flashed for your ProStart(W2W or D2D)<--the wiring hook-up.

Well worth the $50 IMO. Heck, a key cost you that much anyways unless you have 2 already to program a 3rd. If you do, get another to program a 3rd before you lose one.
 
  #3  
Old 01-10-2014, 08:50 AM
Izero's Avatar
Izero
Izero is offline
Champion
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Honestly I HATE the ones that require programming with a computer, because if your battery ever dies, or you change the battery the damn things lose their programming, and then your vehicle won't start at all... huge pain in the ***.

I like the Ignition Immobilizer Bypass units that require you to put a programmed key into which never loses its programming...

Anyways, you'll likely go with the less expensive bypass units like the xpresskit CHALL or the Idatalink, which cut your install down to like 6 - 8 wires (I think 7 for our trucks...)

You will also need a few extra parts:
1) 1130 Ohm resistor
2) 2200 Ohm resistor
3) 820 Ohm resistor
4) 330 Ohm resistor
5) an extra relay

for wiring diagrams

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew...ngdiagrams.asp
 
  #4  
Old 01-12-2014, 05:43 PM
dirtydog's Avatar
dirtydog
dirtydog is offline
Moderate User
Dodge Forum Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Izero
Honestly I HATE the ones that require programming with a computer, because if your battery ever dies, or you change the battery the damn things lose their programming, and then your vehicle won't start at all... huge pain in the ***.

I like the Ignition Immobilizer Bypass units that require you to put a programmed key into which never loses its programming...

My truck battery goes dead every other month because I never drive it. I've had my system in the truck for 6yrs now and I've never had to re-program my module other than when I installed a new battery 3yrs ago. And even when it lost it's programming I was still able to use my truck, just didnt have the benefit of the remote start.
They arent as bad as you make them out to be. How often has Your battery died? Most people change battery once every 5 or 6 yrs. Mine went bad from going dead so much from excessive current draw(another story).
My truck gets so dead, that even the dome lights won't light up!! Dash lights get so dim there's nothing even there. I jump it and wallah. Back to bidness.
 
  #5  
Old 01-13-2014, 10:37 AM
Izero's Avatar
Izero
Izero is offline
Champion
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dirtydog
My truck battery goes dead every other month because I never drive it. I've had my system in the truck for 6yrs now and I've never had to re-program my module other than when I installed a new battery 3yrs ago. And even when it lost it's programming I was still able to use my truck, just didnt have the benefit of the remote start.
They arent as bad as you make them out to be. How often has Your battery died? Most people change battery once every 5 or 6 yrs. Mine went bad from going dead so much from excessive current draw(another story).
My truck gets so dead, that even the dome lights won't light up!! Dash lights get so dim there's nothing even there. I jump it and wallah. Back to bidness.
I can't even count how many customers I've had tow their vehicles in because the modules failed and it activated the security system's immobilizer....

Again it all depends on which ones you use, some of them are much more prone to losing their programming than others.... the Xpresskits models are generally the ones that have issues...

Also to address someone's concern about "theft" with the physical key bypass modules [and your concern is one I see with new and/or inexperienced installers, or misinformed/smart-*** customers]... No Offense intended.

What I usually tell my customers to do is to have a "blank" key programmed, which means the physical key is not "cut" to match the lock cylinder, which prevents a thief from starting the vehicle with the key IF they somehow were able to get it out of the bypass module... Now you've basically turned the theft into a few hour job, that the thief would have to first get into the vehicle, disable the alarm system (usually they cut the horn/siren wires under the hood or pull the fuse for the horn, which just gives them some more time to work on the wiring... next they have to actually LOCATE the Bypass module (and the Alarm system module, unless it's just a simple r/s system)... then they have to remove the key from the bypass unit, then they would need to make sure they remove the resistors & relay that are installed.... re-wire everything basically back to stock, b/c the circuit wont be complete if they have tampered with the bypass module [or security module] which means it won't start... on top of that they need to force-disable the security system.... which is easy if they know which model it is and if the installer didn't change the "OEM Set one-time bypass code"... then it comes down to a simple hot wire or turning the key from the bypass module [if it's cut to match the ign cylinder]...

There's a bunch more steps in between that I'm not going to go into, but this basically deters most car thieves as it's not worth the time and risk of getting caught, they would rather go after the easy targets that are quick to cut and hot wire so they can just drive off.

And, NO I do not steal cars. These are just things you learn when installing security/remote-start/keyless-entry systems, especially when you deal with cars that are theft recoveries and the owner wants a security system.

There are a million and half ways that I know of to enhance the security functions... but to be honest, if someone wants it, they will take it... and if that means flat-bedding it, they'll do it. The only thing you can do it set the system up so it makes it a huge pain in the *** and takes more time then they are willing to spend on it, at which point they're more likely to just loot the interior and leave you with a pain in the *** clean-up and police report to file...
 



Quick Reply: Aftermarket Remote Starter Installation



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:26 AM.