Hints/tricks on Maintenance
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Professional
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Southeast Texas
Hints/tricks on Maintenance
So I just finished up all of the maintenance that needed to be done on my truck, to make sure everything was done, and I was caught up. I drained and refilled coolant, replaced the water pump (was leaking a little bit anyway) and thermostat, changed spark plugs, change oil in the front and rear differentials (I have 4x4), changed fluid in the transfer case, dropped the transmission pan and changed both filters, and topped back off, checked the PCV valve, replaced the serpetine belt, cleaned the throttle body and changed brakes.
Wanted to share some of the things that made my life easier, and that I'll remember next time.
Spark Plugs:
When changing the spark plugs, remove the air box and the plenum (the plastic deal that the air hose goes to that says Hemi 5.7l V8 (on my truck). This gives you a lot more room to work with in order to get the coil packs off, and get the sparks plugs out/in. The plenum only has two bolts you need to take off. While you have the plenum off, check the PCV valve, and clean the throttle body.
Differentials:
When changing the fluids in the differentials and/or pulling the transmission pan, I used a little narrow plastic scraper from the hardware store to get most of the old RTV off, and then used some steel wool to clean it up the rest of the way. On the rear differential cover, there were some grooves in between the bolt holes. I had to use a small extendable razor knife to cut the majority of the RTV out, then used the scraper, then steel wool. The rear differential is easier to change with the spare tire out of the way. You can sit up underneath the truck and pour the oil straight into the diff with it gone. I jacked up each axle, one at a time, to drain the oil out of them. That takes a little bit of time. The front diff cover was harder to get off because of the tight clearances. I used a short fixed ratchet with a shallow socket to get some of the top ones off. If you have a skid plate, go ahead and take it off. Get a hand pump that fits standard fluid bottles. It was the only way I could get the oil in the front diff. I used an RTV from CarQuest that said it was made for differentials. It was a greyish/silver. Tighten the bolts, but don't torque them down. Wait an hour. Torque, then fill. Use some brake cleaner on the covers to help get them clean. On the rear, if your manual says 5/8" below the hole, find an allen wrench that the 90 is 5/8" long, fill until you see fluid on it. Check your levels after driving, many times you'll find the levels drop.
Transfer Case:
The NV234D transfer case takes about 2 quarts of ATF4, not 4 like the auto parts store will tell you. If this has never been changed, or changed infrequently, those plugs are a PITA to get out. A ratchet with a 17m Hex socket would work best here I believe. I had to make do with a pipe wrench on a 3/8" hex wrench. Spray a little penetrating oil on them every now and then if you have some other things you can do first. Use a little thread lubricant when you put them back in. If you have a skid plate and don't take it off, it will go everywhere. Trust me. It also gives you some more room to get those stupid plugs out. Use a hand pump here to get the ATF4 into the transfer case. Clean your pump thoroughly when switching between fluids.
Transmission Pan:
Get Mopar filters. Yes, they cost more. Yes, they're worth it. It'll be on your vehicle for another 30-60k miles, you want OEM. No, you don't want to do this again before you have to. I used the Mopar RTV, got it at the dealer when I got the filters. Its only a $1 more or so than regular black RTV. I had to use a very thin screwdriver and a makeshift hammer in order to crack the seal after I had all the bolts loosened up. I started on the pan from the rear of the vehicle. Once I had a corner of the pan broke free, I wedged the flathead screwdriver in there a little further, and gently put a little leverage on it, and and controlled the drain. It took a little bit longer, but there was no mess, and the fluid was hot. Again, used small plastic scraper and steel wool to clean up both mating surfaces. The main sump filter is a torx bit (don't remember what size), and there is a bar that runs right underneath it. I had to get it from a slight angle. When I dropped the pan, I drained 8 quarts of ATF4 out. The service manual says if only the fluid and filter were drained, you need 5 quarts. Well, I bought 6, just in case, but ended up having to buy 2 more.
Brakes:
Make sure you get the right brakes from the part store. I had to go back after pulling everything off, only to discover that neither the front or rear set they sold me fit. Best way is to take off a pad on the front and back, and use another vehicle to go get the right ones.
I think that's just about it. Hopefully it'll help someone or motivate them to get it done. Everything is pretty easy to do, just takes a little time the first time you do it. I did everything on 3 different days because of time constraints, but it shouldn't be a problem to do everything (except the water pump) in a good day.
Wanted to share some of the things that made my life easier, and that I'll remember next time.
Spark Plugs:
When changing the spark plugs, remove the air box and the plenum (the plastic deal that the air hose goes to that says Hemi 5.7l V8 (on my truck). This gives you a lot more room to work with in order to get the coil packs off, and get the sparks plugs out/in. The plenum only has two bolts you need to take off. While you have the plenum off, check the PCV valve, and clean the throttle body.
Differentials:
When changing the fluids in the differentials and/or pulling the transmission pan, I used a little narrow plastic scraper from the hardware store to get most of the old RTV off, and then used some steel wool to clean it up the rest of the way. On the rear differential cover, there were some grooves in between the bolt holes. I had to use a small extendable razor knife to cut the majority of the RTV out, then used the scraper, then steel wool. The rear differential is easier to change with the spare tire out of the way. You can sit up underneath the truck and pour the oil straight into the diff with it gone. I jacked up each axle, one at a time, to drain the oil out of them. That takes a little bit of time. The front diff cover was harder to get off because of the tight clearances. I used a short fixed ratchet with a shallow socket to get some of the top ones off. If you have a skid plate, go ahead and take it off. Get a hand pump that fits standard fluid bottles. It was the only way I could get the oil in the front diff. I used an RTV from CarQuest that said it was made for differentials. It was a greyish/silver. Tighten the bolts, but don't torque them down. Wait an hour. Torque, then fill. Use some brake cleaner on the covers to help get them clean. On the rear, if your manual says 5/8" below the hole, find an allen wrench that the 90 is 5/8" long, fill until you see fluid on it. Check your levels after driving, many times you'll find the levels drop.
Transfer Case:
The NV234D transfer case takes about 2 quarts of ATF4, not 4 like the auto parts store will tell you. If this has never been changed, or changed infrequently, those plugs are a PITA to get out. A ratchet with a 17m Hex socket would work best here I believe. I had to make do with a pipe wrench on a 3/8" hex wrench. Spray a little penetrating oil on them every now and then if you have some other things you can do first. Use a little thread lubricant when you put them back in. If you have a skid plate and don't take it off, it will go everywhere. Trust me. It also gives you some more room to get those stupid plugs out. Use a hand pump here to get the ATF4 into the transfer case. Clean your pump thoroughly when switching between fluids.
Transmission Pan:
Get Mopar filters. Yes, they cost more. Yes, they're worth it. It'll be on your vehicle for another 30-60k miles, you want OEM. No, you don't want to do this again before you have to. I used the Mopar RTV, got it at the dealer when I got the filters. Its only a $1 more or so than regular black RTV. I had to use a very thin screwdriver and a makeshift hammer in order to crack the seal after I had all the bolts loosened up. I started on the pan from the rear of the vehicle. Once I had a corner of the pan broke free, I wedged the flathead screwdriver in there a little further, and gently put a little leverage on it, and and controlled the drain. It took a little bit longer, but there was no mess, and the fluid was hot. Again, used small plastic scraper and steel wool to clean up both mating surfaces. The main sump filter is a torx bit (don't remember what size), and there is a bar that runs right underneath it. I had to get it from a slight angle. When I dropped the pan, I drained 8 quarts of ATF4 out. The service manual says if only the fluid and filter were drained, you need 5 quarts. Well, I bought 6, just in case, but ended up having to buy 2 more.
Brakes:
Make sure you get the right brakes from the part store. I had to go back after pulling everything off, only to discover that neither the front or rear set they sold me fit. Best way is to take off a pad on the front and back, and use another vehicle to go get the right ones.
I think that's just about it. Hopefully it'll help someone or motivate them to get it done. Everything is pretty easy to do, just takes a little time the first time you do it. I did everything on 3 different days because of time constraints, but it shouldn't be a problem to do everything (except the water pump) in a good day.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 138
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From: Southeast Texas
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Moe, LOL! It really wasn't that bad. I took my time because this was the first time I've done most of this stuff on this truck (I bought it used), and I wanted to make sure I did it right the first time.
I also wanted to note that I did not add in the additional friction modifier from mopar (less than $10) for LSD's. The service manual says to use 2.1qts of 75w-140 and the 4oz of 75w-140 in the rear end. I used about 2.5 qts of 75w-140 Mobil 1 LS, and have not experienced any issues with chatter. Just using the Mobil1 LS has worked great.
Moe, LOL! It really wasn't that bad. I took my time because this was the first time I've done most of this stuff on this truck (I bought it used), and I wanted to make sure I did it right the first time.
I also wanted to note that I did not add in the additional friction modifier from mopar (less than $10) for LSD's. The service manual says to use 2.1qts of 75w-140 and the 4oz of 75w-140 in the rear end. I used about 2.5 qts of 75w-140 Mobil 1 LS, and have not experienced any issues with chatter. Just using the Mobil1 LS has worked great.
Professional
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 176
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From: White Lake, Mi
This write up and the nice weather here are giving me the itch to go out and get to work on the list of things I need to get done on my truck!
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Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,831
Likes: 3
From: Tampa, FL
I second getting the OEM trans filters as the Duralast ones I got from Autozone didn't fit. The screw on filter was the wrong threading and the flat filter made the trans start throwing codes.
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 340
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Thanks for the tips. Personally, I quit using RTV years ago. I hate scraping, be it differentials, transmission pan, etc. I never had problems with leaking. (I just use the gaskets with maybe a few dots of RTV to help hold gasket in place while I postion).
I've never bought mopar transmission filters, been luck so far no problems. I'm gonna hit 200K next week, hope I didn't just jinx myself.
I've never bought mopar transmission filters, been luck so far no problems. I'm gonna hit 200K next week, hope I didn't just jinx myself.
