2004 5.7 cluster fuse #51 draining
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2004 5.7 cluster fuse #51 draining
Has anyone figured out the current draw on this fuse. It draws 1 amps with key off and nothing on, pulled fuse #51 it goes to .011 amps. Seems this happens a lot but no one has a fix. Replaced battery and cluster was replaced before I owned it. Pulled wire bundle under fuse box and lost draw so its not in fuse housing. Base model truck no power windows or locks.
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From the 03 Service Manual.......
You may want to also try disconnecting the Positive Terminal on the Alternator and see if your drain is still there. (worth a shot)
Also, you should see a draw on Fuse 51 for about 10-20 minutes, as the IOD switch is what gives power to the cluster and radio to keep the memory up.
Your next step might be to disconnect each item that gets power through Fuse 51 (Cluster, Radio, etc.) and see which reduces the current drain.
Definitely keep us posted!
Code:
IOD FUSE DESCRIPTION All vehicles are equipped with an Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse that is disconnected within the Integrated Power Module when the vehicle is shipped from the factory. Dealer personnel are to reconnect the IOD fuse in the Integrated Power Module as part of the preparation procedures performed just prior to new vehicle delivery. A laser printed fuse layout map is integral to the Integrated Power Module cover to ensure proper fuse identification. The IOD fuse is a 20 ampere mini blade-type fuse, located in fuse cavity # 51 (Fig. 6). The fuse is secured within a black molded plastic fuse holder and puller unit that serves both as a tool for disconnecting and reconnecting the fuse in its Integrated Power Module cavity, and as a fuse holder that conveniently stores the fuse in the same Integrated Power Module cavity after it has been disconnected. CIRCUITS INCLUDED WITH IOD FUSE ² Cluster (CCN) ² Diagnostic Connector ² Map Lamps ² Glove Box Lamp ² Courtesy Lamps ² Radio ² Underhood Lamp OPERATION The term ignition-off draw identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. The IOD fuse feeds the memory and sleep mode functions for some of the electronic modules in the vehicle as well as various other accessories that require battery current when the ignition switch is in the Off position. The only reason the IOD fuse is disconnected is to reduce the normal IOD of the vehicle electrical system during new vehicle transportation and pre-delivery storage to reduce battery depletion, while still allowing vehicle operation so that the vehicle can be loaded, unloaded and moved as needed by both vehicle transportation company and dealer personnel. The IOD fuse is disconnected from Integrated Power Module fuse cavity # 51 when the vehicle is shipped from the assembly plant. Dealer personnel must reconnect the IOD fuse when the vehicle is being prepared for delivery in order to restore full electrical system operation. Once the vehicle is prepared for delivery, the IOD function of this fuse becomes transparent and the fuse that has been assigned the IOD designation becomes only another Fused B(+) circuit fuse. The IOD fuse can be used by the vehicle owner as a convenient means of reducing battery depletion when a vehicle is to be stored for periods not to exceed about thirty days. However, it must be remembered that disconnecting the IOD fuse will not eliminate IOD, but only reduce this normal condition. If a vehicle will be stored for more than about thirty days, the battery negative cable should be disconnected to eliminate normal IOD; and, the battery should be tested and recharged at regular intervals during the vehicle storage period to prevent the battery from becoming discharged or damaged. REMOVAL The Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse is disconnected from Integrated Power Module fuse cavity # 51 when the vehicle is shipped from the assembly plant. Dealer personnel must reconnect the IOD fuse when the vehicle is being prepared for delivery in order to restore full electrical system operation. (1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. (2) Remove the Integrated Power Module cover. (3) Grasp the outer tabs of the IOD fuse holder unit in fuse cavity # 51 between the thumb and forefinger and pull the unit firmly upward. (4) Install the Integrated Power Module cover.
You may want to also try disconnecting the Positive Terminal on the Alternator and see if your drain is still there. (worth a shot)
Also, you should see a draw on Fuse 51 for about 10-20 minutes, as the IOD switch is what gives power to the cluster and radio to keep the memory up.
Your next step might be to disconnect each item that gets power through Fuse 51 (Cluster, Radio, etc.) and see which reduces the current drain.
Definitely keep us posted!
Site Moderator-Dodge Tech
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From: Nashville, Tennessee
If a control module fuse is the cause of the draw, ANYTHING that module is an output for can be the source of the draw. The cluster is a module.
Example would be the cluster runs the illumination for the dash and the dome lamps. It's also is the power source for the trunk release.
The draw you see may or may not be the actual root power draw. Most often times, the larger number is from a module or moduleS on the BUS waking up PLUS whatever is causing the problem.
SO.....what your next step would be in the chain is to go into your wiring diagrams and find EVERYTHING that the cluster powers up and check them one at a time ruling each one out. It may in fact be the cluster, but this is the only way to know for sure.
Example would be the cluster runs the illumination for the dash and the dome lamps. It's also is the power source for the trunk release.
The draw you see may or may not be the actual root power draw. Most often times, the larger number is from a module or moduleS on the BUS waking up PLUS whatever is causing the problem.
SO.....what your next step would be in the chain is to go into your wiring diagrams and find EVERYTHING that the cluster powers up and check them one at a time ruling each one out. It may in fact be the cluster, but this is the only way to know for sure.
Last edited by TNtech; Apr 4, 2014 at 09:57 AM.
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I pulled the radio and disconnected it, still 1 amp draw, truck has no hood light on it, could not find dash cargo box light, just base model. So that leaves the cluster, the horn doesn't work and the fuse for that is pulled. So does the cluster need that horn circuit voltage input to shut down, previously owned and wonder if horn cup caused horn to go off so they pulled the fuse. I installed a fuse and it still doesn't work. There is no horn relay, I guessing it is internal to the module attached to the fuse housing. I don't know why the cluster was replaced before I owned it, was told it had a light on(don't know which one). So they pulled one off a used truck and put it in this one, and had it programed??? The technical page I'm using said never pull one off a used truck and reinstall it, has that been everyone's experience or understanding on that? Thanks for helping
Site Moderator-Dodge Tech
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Try taking the cargo lamp assembly out. They are prone to get water in them and cause a short, but I've seen them cause a draw too. Also try your draw test with the dimmer switch all the way down to the off spot.
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Well, you will always get a high reading when checking right after shutting the truck off. You also cannot pull the fuse and run the meter inline as that wakes the circuit up as well.
How long did you allow the truck to sit rested when reading the draw on that circuit? Some circuits can take up to 20min to get to their rest state!
I would let your meter sit inline with that fuse for 20min and see if there is still 1A draw.
Do NOT open any doors, lock/unlock anything. Let the truck stay completely rested or else you'll have to start over.
How long did you allow the truck to sit rested when reading the draw on that circuit? Some circuits can take up to 20min to get to their rest state!
I would let your meter sit inline with that fuse for 20min and see if there is still 1A draw.
Do NOT open any doors, lock/unlock anything. Let the truck stay completely rested or else you'll have to start over.
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I have waited several hours, once over night. Can you hook this to a factory scanner/computer and see what hard or soft input and outputs are on or off, that would be way to easy. You would think there is a way to see the status of all the inputs and outputs since it computerized.
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Site Moderator-Dodge Tech
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I have waited several hours, once over night. Can you hook this to a factory scanner/computer and see what hard or soft input and outputs are on or off, that would be way to easy. You would think there is a way to see the status of all the inputs and outputs since it computerized.
Not without turning the ignition on. The scan tool wakes up the BUS anyway.
Champion
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You need to systematically disconnect each item that circuit is hooked up to and measure the chance over 30 minutes without disconnecting and reconnecting your meter, in order to see any changes.
So
1) Disconnect something along that circuit (ex. Radio...)
2) Set your meter up from the negative terminal (disconnected) and the batteries negative terminal. (if your meter doesn't have over circuit protection built in, I suggest you put a temporary jumper [thick gauge wire] in place and measure across the jumper.)
3) Turn Ign switch to "on" but don't start the truck.
4) Turn off & Get out (close door behind you)
5) Watch the meter for 30 minutes for any changes.
6) Repeat until you find the culprit...
So
1) Disconnect something along that circuit (ex. Radio...)
2) Set your meter up from the negative terminal (disconnected) and the batteries negative terminal. (if your meter doesn't have over circuit protection built in, I suggest you put a temporary jumper [thick gauge wire] in place and measure across the jumper.)
3) Turn Ign switch to "on" but don't start the truck.
4) Turn off & Get out (close door behind you)
5) Watch the meter for 30 minutes for any changes.
6) Repeat until you find the culprit...
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I pretty much unhook everything I could get to, still 1 amp draw from fuse 51. Took cluster out and unhooked two connectors in the back, still a draw till I unhook the third connector which I'm sure is the power feeding cluster. So this is out of a different truck, as I posted my technical data says to never do this. So did they leave something programed or not programed in. Thought I had it figured to the Automatic Shut Down Relay, when I swapped it with another, worked till I checked it yesterday. Now I cant lose the 1 amp draw. As I also stated my horn doesn't work and the fuse is gone, placed a fuse in but no luck. Could this be drawing down the cluster fuse from bad horn switch.
