I did my water pump last autum and couldn't believe how quiet new pulleys tensioner and belt made the truck sound.
I used an OEM pump, thoroughly cleaned the Water pump mounting face on the block and used no sealant on the new WP flexible rubber gasket.
100% good with no leaks.
Just bolt up the pump in a star cross cross pattern to the correct torque specs and you should be good to go.
Also, don't forget to run your heater on full heat and blower to burp your system of air.
Al.

 

Thanks Al. What tool did you use to remove the fan? I got new OEM pump , and dayco tensioner and pulleys.

 

I made my own "red neck spanner".
A peice of 2x4 with a bolt in it jammed down into the crank pulley.
Bolt goes into the fan housing where the blades attach.
This stops the pulley from turning.
I then got a large wrench/spanner and with a BFH, whacked it.
I think I hit it clockwise which freed off the fan.
Hope this helps?
If you search for "Red neck spanner" .... There is a post on this site with pics.
That's where I got the idea from.

 

Thanks again. One last question. I want to replace all the cooling fluid.. How much old fluid will be left in the engine when I drain radiator and remove the hoses?

 

Very little I believe in the block. Lots in the heater core though.
Disconnect the hoses at the firewall to drain the core. Then flush it with a hose, then re-drain again and re-connect.
Best to stick a hose in the opening where the tstat goes and flush. then also in the bottom where it goes into the block via the water pump.
Also flush the rad while your at it the same way. Hose in the top running fresh water allowing it to drain out of the bottom.
Remember, when you put it all back together, there will be air pockets.
I pre-filled the main radiator with coolant and also topped off the tstat housing before putting the new tstat in, minimising this.
You may/may not, see your temp gauge spike when the sender hits an air pocket.
Just run up to temp & feel the top hose that goes into the rad to make sure it gets red hot. That will tell you the tstat has opened.
Top rad hose should feel very hot almost too hot to touch and the hose will feel pressurised. The bottom hose out of the radiator should be a lot cooler.
Keep an eye on your header tank and keep it topped up to the full line.
Several heat cycles of your engine will be necessary to burp all the air out of the system so keep an eye on your coolant level.
As I said earlier, make sure you set your heater on full heat and blower on max as this helps to burp the system.
Hope this helps?
Al.

 

This will help you with the fan removal, This guy used metal to make the redneck spanner, I used wood.
Who's more of a redneck I ask.....even though I'm English ha ha ha ha ha.

 

Thanks...Yep, I ran into that youtube video earlier today, looks very helpful.
My waterpump hasn't arrived but I changed out the tensioner, and the pulleys today..Just took a couple minutes.. They were all shot. Big difference already.

 

God bless Youtube.

 

 

I just used a couple screwdrivers and was able to muscle everything. But Advance and AutoZone have loaner tool kits of spanner wrenches. They cost like $120, but you get all your money back when you return it.

I flushed my whole system with distilled water. Tap water can have minerals that are not good for the aluminum heads and such, and at 88 cents a gallon, it's a pretty cheap insurance. I think I used about 12 gallons of distilled water, I beleive that is including what I mixed with the antifreeze. But I drained everything I could, filled with distilled, ran til it heated up, added as needed due to burping, drained, repeat until I had clear water coming out. Then drained what I could, poured a gallon of straight antifreeze in to mix with the pure water left in the system, then topped off with 50/50 mix and burped the system until it was full.