I have the throttle body issue. Well the ECU need to be reprogrammed or well the part bolt on and the ECU see it?
BTW are these throttle bodies specific to the 1500 or well any for the 5.7 Hemi work?
I see some are 85mm and another 90mm in after market. Is the increase diameter a performance gain or just a gas guzzeler?
I see some on e-bay for the 5.7 but not every Dodge model is listed.

 

You need Hemi specific.
You need Year specific as the plugs are different and the mounting style is different. Particularly 03/04, 05+ and then 09+

You can unplug the battery and touch the terminals together or just leave the positive unhooked for 20min. Either will reset the computer so it will re-learn the new T/B.

Bigger T/B isn't necessarily a guzzler. Your foot is. Your bone stock. Stick with stock 85mm size.

 

"You can unplug the battery and touch the terminals together ..."

Don't forget to dance on your left foot in a counter-clockwise circle under a full moon while holding your left earlobe in your right hand.

 

Not very helpful, sort of trollish. Care to elaborate? What the correct procedure should be?

 

Talked to the service adviser, it may be a plug and play part, they vary from model to model and to the quirkiness that happens when they fail. You end up putting it on and you takes your chances. BTW dealer shop rate here is $109 and that is what they get to flash the ECU. Mine needs the oil sending unit flash, they widen the range for the sensor to reduce the check engine warning.

 

There is a flash for that, BUT those Hemi oil pressure switches are junky. As for the t-body, yes you can plug & play, but I would relearn the ETC as there can be variances in the TPS sensors between an old and new t-body.

 

That is called a capacitive discharge. It's not a quick touch, but should be left for about 30 minutes. Yes, doing this will erase all DTC freeze frame data and learned values in every module on the car. It can even wake up a module that has gone into sleep mode. We do it quite frequently especially when it relates to TIPM and WCM issues.

 

Very handy information. I did a plug and play. Seems to work correctly, idles correctly and has throttle response. Thanks for the info TNtech. Now to figure out who makes a better oil pressure switch. I have replaced it once, after market. I can either carry around a cheapo code reader to clear the code or get the ECM reflashed. The switch has been in less than a year.

 

With all the circuit and reverse-current protection, nothing is going to "drain out" that way. Funny how there is nothing in the shop manual about this.

 

There are a lot of things not in the shop manual. You'll just have to believe it or not.