OEM unit is fine. Check ebay for a good used one. Might get it with gear and be pretty cheap. I have a brand new set of 410 gears here in the box if you need a set and are interested

 

Hmmmm.... how.... much...... And do you have the front too? BTW, is 1,600 RPM's @ 60 MPH too low for a V10?

 

Assuming you mean 1600 @ 60 in OD? No. Not at all. Final gear ratio should bring the rpms down.

$150 shipped on the gears going USPS Priority in a large flat rate box with tracking. Normal price is $200 plus shipping

 

According to the OP, he has an 11.5, not a 9.25. Just a heads up.

 

Shoot... I called the dealership and had them run my VIN. I have the 10.5, not the 11.5 like I thought. BTW, how do I tell the difference between the two?

 

what I'd do...

buy 3 quarts of gear oil, dino stuff, not the expensive synthetic...
buy a tube of permatex gasket sealer

look for pics of the dreaded limited slip failure, that way when you open it up, it'll go faster.

pull the rear cover, draining it into a clean container
inspect the housing for the tell tale grove in the bearing retainer
slowly spin the driveshaft while you inspect the ring for broken teeth.
doubt you can see the pinion, but if you can, try to inspect.
look for debris in the housing...
take a couple pics of suspect areas...

update this thread with what you find.

if there are still remnants of the ls diff shells stuck between the diff and the housing, you can pull the bearing cap and remove them. I believe its 65ft/lbs to reinstall the cap (double check that).

coat the cover with the permatex and reinstall... wait for the gasket to setup, then put the dino gear oil in there... and you can drive it to work in the morning...

You'll drain out the dino gear oil when you decide what to do next... and then replace it with synthetic. The dino stuff will help you get more junk out of the housing...

my guess, your diff didn't lock up, a piece of broken shell got lodged in the pinion/ring interface... you forced it, hope that didn't break teeth.

 

Yeah, I hope so too. Thanks for the info. Hang tight guys, My bro-in-law's Jeep has a blown transmission I'm rebuilding. Hopefully, it'll be installed and running late tomorrow and I can have my concrete slab back. By the by, could you post a proper pic of the LS failure?

 

I just realized you're talking 2500 series. I think the general guidance is ok, but the shells that I referenced are found in the 9.25 rear. I don't know if the setup is similar for the 3/4 ton axle, haven't personally pulled on of those apart.

 

Post any and all anyway! I need to know what I'm up against. My poor Monster has been drawn near the end, bowing faithfully to my every command. And she will be drawn near, facing my orders, a half ton waiting for orders from her 3/4 ton.....

 

ok, just keep in mind this may not apply to your situation...

I just did a quick search, came up with this posting... shows a sample piece that broke and fell out, second picture shows the piece still in there, up against the bearing perch. If they were to take a side picture, you'd probably see a nice grove cut into that perch.

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=130907

You can replace those pieces, they'll rather cheap... don't know if the replacement parts are any better than what they put in there to begin with though. I think the best strategy is to replace the lsd with aftermarket, there are quite a few choices.

Of course, this only goes for the 9.25... have no idea what the 3/4 ton setups are like.