I have a noisy bearing, so I need to change a hub.
I've watched the on-line videos, it doesn't look to bad to deal with, probably an hour of labor total - but I have one question, how much trouble will the three bolts that mount the bearing assembly to the spindle give me? I'd hate to get that far, and break of one of the bolts.
twisting off the axle nut shouldn't be a problem, I can loosen it while the truck is still on the ground.

 

Shouldn't be that bad......changed both front ones on mine. The biggest PITA is actually getting the bearing/hub assembly out of the steering knuckle.... Both of mine where seized in there pretty bad. I had to use an air chisel while prying and lots of pb blaster to get it to finally break free....just make sure u lube that hub up on the new one with antiseize before u install it. Also make sure u torque the axle but correctly..... 185ft/lbs

 

I did both my hubs almost a year ago. My trucks an 03 4x4 Hemi, so will be the same as yours.
Firstly, I bought 2 new hub nuts.
Then PB blasted the old hub and spines in the CV axle, which are usually just about welded together with aluminiunm oxide crap and rust etc.
I backed off the old cv/hub nut, so that it was just slightly proud of the end of the CV shaft threads.
Whilst everything was still mounted, I then got a heavy club hammer (at least 5lb's small hand sledge type) and struck the face of the old hub nut FLUSH.
I did this several times to shock the cv and hub splines, free of each other.
It took all of like 5 minutes or so.......much better than the hours I took to try to get that sucker free any other way.
Striking the old hub nut flush and with it being slightly proud of the end of the CV shaft threads, no damage was caused to the CV shaft. Only the hub nut, which is much softer metal than the CV shaft and threads.
Then remove the top track rod end on the steering knuckle which will allow enough room to then pull out t the recently freed CV shaft from the old hub.
You can then get to the three hub bolts easily.
You can't get the hub off any other way, other than pulling out the CV shaft to allow you to get to the bolts.
As said.....use copious amounts of anti-seize and torque the new hub nut to 185 ft lbs if a 1500 model truck.
Hope this helps?
Al.

 

The bolts are easy, it's getting that axle nut off and separating the hub from the spindle that's you're gonna play hell with. Have an impact and a BFH at the ready.

 

Did you replace both sides? If not, replace the other side. They need to be replaced in pairs. Sometimes due to the way things resonate, you'd swear the problem is on one side when it's really on the other. And yeah, you can't guess torque when it comes to wheel bearings. Too expensive to shorten the life on it.

 

Just thought i would put in my 2 cents on the axle nut torque. The 1500 non mega cab trucks use the same bearing for 2wd and 4wd. Ive never found a need to torque the axle nut on one of these bearing, just tighten as much as a lug nut. The 185 ft lbs has no affect on bearing preload or else the 2wd truck bearings wouldnt last a week with no preload.