I thought I'd post something a little more up to date then some of the past MyGIG installs and let everyone know what's needed to do it.

First, you need a LowSpeed CAN Bus MyGIG. This site actually has a great breakdown of all of the MyGIG models along with what vehicles they came in.

My new MyGIG RER came from a 2008 Chrysler 300 with a 1 year warranty. You can expect an average price between $500-800.

Then you need to buy the interfaces. My Laramie came with a REC Radio, which included Sirius, Nav and UConnect.

I purchased the MyGIG Lockpick Adapter, which also allows you to hook up your reverse camera (if installed), along with adding other features, such as a Video Entertaining settings, video while driving, enter destination while driving, etc. You can find more information here.

Along with that interface (which comes with the FM/AM antenna adapter), I ordered the Sirius Extension cable (the MyGIG has a built in Sirius unit, so you unplug the harness behind the glovebox, and plug THAT harness into your new extension. The other end of your new extension goes to the back of the MyGIG.

You'll need a new GPS antenna. Pop your forward dash cover off, unscrew your old GPS antenna and you can just cut it from the wire, then install the new antenna and route the cable on the outside of the defrost channel that comes up to the dash.

You'll also need the UConnect harness. Just like the Sirius, the MyGIG has built-in UConnect. So you unplug the existing harness (behind glove box, to the right by the kickpanel) and plug the existing harness into the jumper. Plug the other end of the jumper into the back of the MyGIG.

From there, install the new MyGIG into the dash, button it up and turn it on. (Actually, turn it on before buttoning everything up, just in case something goes wrong). It does take 30-60 seconds for the Lockpick to initialize on first boot. My Nav took a couple of minutes to start working correctly (Make sure you set your home state).

The Bluetooth paired up, too. When the MyGIG says to enter a code, just enter 0000 then on your phone, it should start the pairing process. (I have an iPhone 6+ and have no problems). It downloads the phonebook from your phone at startup.

I also purchased the Mopar iPod adapter, but found out it only works with 2009 and later MyGIG's, so it won't work (Harness actually has a SLIGHTLY different plug on it). That's fine, I've already loaded a ton of music on mine. The logo changed from Chrysler to Dodge and I've got my Sirius activated and the UConnect works, too. So far, so good.

I've uploaded the latest firmware for the radio along with the latest grace notes database. I'm not sure if I want to spend the $140 on the latest maps yet. We'll see. Either way, I checked on the Navquest site and it accepted my VIN for a update order.

Two problems of note:
1) The clock will not set. I tried manual and GPS and after you touch SAVE, it reverts to a random time.
2) The first day, the MyGIG would freeze for about 10 seconds then reboot. This would happen as I was playing with settings. As of last night, it hasn't done it again. Not sure why but the MyGIGS seem to go through a learning phase for the first couple of days.

Anyways, I hope this helps some people that may be thinking about upgrading their radio and wanting to stick with a factory option. I have a REC for sale

 

You could do a tablet install and come out cheaper with far more functionality and more a coolness

#IJS

 

I notice you post the same thing on anyone that writes about their factory radio install. Maybe I didn't want to do a carputer or tablet install? I've done them before, big deal. I went with a factory option because I prefer a factory look and could care less about the "coolness" factor. In regards to cost, I paid next to nothing for this setup. An iPad alone would have cost me more then I paid for the radio and lock pick. Thanks for the reply.

#reallyanotherhashtag
#idontcare

 

Really not a need to get your feathers ruffled. You do your ride however you want. In general, aftermarket gear will cost less, give more functionality and sound better than oem.

You yourself said the OEM unit is 500-800 plus the nav bezel plus the install kit plus the harness, satellite cable, GPS cable, lockpick, Uconnect, the cost for updated maps, ect. That's a lot of coin and it's all good if you like it.

Ipads? Stupidly overpriced with proprietary hardware and locked software. No good.

Go get a Nexus 7 (2nd gen) with a HD screen, faster processor, wireless charging capabilities and more. You still have Internet, GPS, bluetooth and more and they are anywhere from $130-180 new. You get games, movies, multimedia playback, endless 3rd party software, vehicle parameter support, Internet, HBO Go, YouTube, Netflix, podcasts, online radio, ect

Also, depending on how the dash is fabricated, they can be removed, taken out and used in the house or wherever else which makes them 100% theft proof.

Overall, total cost around $200+. The price of your map updates alone cost more than a Nexus with free updates. #IJS.

You did a great job with your post and you're right, it's a great setup for those who want to keep a stock setup.

#goodluck
#itsyourride
#itsyourmoney
#ifyoulikeitiloveit

 

I find it humorous that you post on multiple threads about how something they did was not worth the money but don't expect people to get miffed. Especially when you get the same reaction overtime you post it.

I've had carputers since 2005...they're really not a big deal. Could I have done this cheaper with more functions? Sure. Catch is you have NO idea what I spent on this. I said the prices AVERAGE between 500-800. I didn't pay that.

As for your iPad comment. Jailbreak it. It'll be fine and has a lot more functionality when you have other Apple devices.

And BS on your overall cost of $200. Fabrication takes time and time is money.

So while I appreciate you posting on other threads and providing useful information, I don't appreciate you posting on a thread when your advice wasn't asked. I'm not mad, feathers aren't ruffled, yada yada yada..Cheers and all that nonsense...just learn from your past conversations that when you post advice when it wasn't asked for, that you get replies back that you didn't ask for.

 

If you dont want comments on your posts, dont post or dont get mad when someone does make a comment. I only made mine in a positive intent to help you out by helping you save some money and get more bang for your buck.

Labor is time, time is money. Yes all very true but i didnt see where you added in your installation cost from whatever shop you paid to do your install for you. Assuming you did your own, then your labor cost in zero which makes your comment null and void being pretty much everyone here are DIY'ers.

Youre right, i have no idea what you paid. Maybe it was $10, maybe it was $100, maybe it was $1000. Who cares. But you are trying to point out directions, steps, parts/materials needed to help others follow your footsteps and that would be cool if you told everyone what you really paid rather than what they should expect to pay at average to full price. Thats not helping any save money and get the most from their hard earned cash.

See, we here try to help people in many way. Mostly by getting the right info out there (which you did a great of of also) but in other ways also like ways to save money.

My entire original point initially was you (or others) could get more for your money and more functionality. Im sorry you choose to take it a different way. With you having tablets and computer installs before, Im sure you will agree they will trump any oem unit. However, like you, not everyones needs aftermarket setups and are content with oem hardware.

Kudos to you. Sorry you got offended someone posted on your thread and good luck with your projects. You did a great job on your install.

 

Nice install.
I'm sure the info. you provided will help anyone wanting to go this route.

 

Thanks, Bob! I appreciate it!

So far I like it a lot. Probably going to install a 200gb hard drive into it