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changed broken valve spring now truck still runs rough

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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 05:43 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by racing44
After checking the vacuum with an old school analog gauge, ive found the vacuum is real low. Talked to a guy at a dealer and he has had an issue with the pin on the cam shaft bending or shearing off after a valve spring breaks. Anyone heard of this before?

So by "real low" what is the number you're getting? Again I'd refer back to the intake manifold cracking as a possibility, possibly torqued down too much by someone if it was ever removed or removed while you did the valve springs or even if it was put on in cold weather below 32 degrees, the plastic intakes need to be room temp or the possibility of them breaking increases when torqued. SOHC Neon plastic Intakes can also crack when put on in cold weather, the symptoms of that were the engine idling at 5,000 Rpm right off the bat, but the crack in my intake was massive that caused that.


Check vacuum lines, check for high idle, check throttle body seal. After you check the easy stuff then check the cam related stuff. Its also possible the PCM is pulling timing causing the vacuum to be low. Don't tear the engine itself apart until you've exhausted all other options.
 

Last edited by JoshSlash87; Mar 26, 2015 at 05:46 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 06:09 PM
  #12  
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The vacuum is around 12 at 3000 rpms and goes down to 2 at 1000 rpms. Also the guage was bouncing (needle was jumping up and down) on the guage while checking. Ive checked the vacuum lines a few times, but only other thing I can do is find a smoke machine and do it the right way.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 06:59 PM
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I know you have done a compression test, but Im still leading towards something amiss in the valve train, because that is where the original problem was. Just a thought
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 09:50 PM
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Hmmm. Sounds like dealer horse-hockey. When the spring breaks, there's no load on the cam shaft from the inoperative valve. I guess if maybe a push rod froze...?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2015 | 08:06 PM
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Well, I made my own smoke machine and found that I have a leak on the intake on the drivers side in the back corner. Now dealer says its on back order and "might" be able to get it in 2 weeks. Do any of you know of an aftermarket solution? Not goin for performance, my dad just needs it to be dependable.
Thanks to all of you for your help so far.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2015 | 11:58 PM
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You could try JB Weld in the intake but I see used ones on ebay for $135.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 02:37 AM
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I'd just like to take a moment to say, it's refreshing to see a user like racing44 here who can dig into the problem, rather than just say "it stopd plz fix I need it working URGENT!~~"
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 02:25 PM
  #18  
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So after finally having a day off yesterday, I took the intake manifold off and found that one of the ports were melted almost all the way through (drivers side back corner). It took multiple calls to dealers to find a new one, apparently theres only 2 in the entire metro detroit area, and I got one. Cleaned everything up, installed new intake and fired it up. Ran like garbage. It idled but was very rough and seemed like timing was off. Found out the new intake is a revised version and theres a plug and clip to close egr port on top of intake. So when I put the smoke back on it, it was pouring out from this hole. It was too late to get the necessary plug and clip so I temporarily plugged hole and fired it up again. This time it wouldnt start without pushing the throttle and wouldnt idle without throttle. But, it ran better as if timing was ok. Put smoke machine on it again just to make sure of no leaks and it was all sealed. No codes but lightning bolt was flashing. Any suggestions from here?
Thank you
 
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