Idiot Light is back
Ok 2004 ram 197 K had top in rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. Light came on and said cats were going so after dropping large amounts of money thought better change them so I did. Codes went away then I started getting random PO404 EGR valve. It would come and go then it stayed on. Went to part source and he says PO052 and the PO404 already mentioned.
Truck will idle all stupid so I finally decided to replace EGR as the O2 sensors are a year old tops. So new EGR yesterday truck a ran (Sunny and warm) but light did not clear even after I pulled posts and touched together as well as removing fuse 23. Had a ton of rain last night and it was 58 F this am and 90% humidity. Truck idle lopped and lopped until a minute in it settled down. Personally I think the PCM is out to lunch. Tired of throwing parts and money at this hunk of chit. Never should have introduced computer anything to these vehicles. To unreliable and a pain to make any sense of issue. So it appears to be running rich and I have no clue why. I wonder if this is the dreaded leaky manifold because they are made of different materials. read that will cause a vacuum leak and cause unmetered air into the cylinder.
When I installed the EGR I took the tube off and cleaned it out as well as the PCV valve. The tub where it connects to the manifold has this pain in the *** clip. Doesn't seem to hold that pipe in place very well. I cleaned the IAC sensor with brake cleaner as it was covered in some dirt. Hope I did not damage it. Would that deal cause my idle to lope so bad? Was thinking about swapping front O2 sensors and see if I get same result or if problem moved to other side then I know )2 sensor is hooped. keep thinking this is most likely a screwed PCM as it runs good one time and the next it runs like a tractor. Seems if damp or after a rain it runs weird, but may just be coincidence.
Anyway for you folks just a bit brighter then myself, what do I do next. Help Thing is slowly driving me nuts.
Truck will idle all stupid so I finally decided to replace EGR as the O2 sensors are a year old tops. So new EGR yesterday truck a ran (Sunny and warm) but light did not clear even after I pulled posts and touched together as well as removing fuse 23. Had a ton of rain last night and it was 58 F this am and 90% humidity. Truck idle lopped and lopped until a minute in it settled down. Personally I think the PCM is out to lunch. Tired of throwing parts and money at this hunk of chit. Never should have introduced computer anything to these vehicles. To unreliable and a pain to make any sense of issue. So it appears to be running rich and I have no clue why. I wonder if this is the dreaded leaky manifold because they are made of different materials. read that will cause a vacuum leak and cause unmetered air into the cylinder.
When I installed the EGR I took the tube off and cleaned it out as well as the PCV valve. The tub where it connects to the manifold has this pain in the *** clip. Doesn't seem to hold that pipe in place very well. I cleaned the IAC sensor with brake cleaner as it was covered in some dirt. Hope I did not damage it. Would that deal cause my idle to lope so bad? Was thinking about swapping front O2 sensors and see if I get same result or if problem moved to other side then I know )2 sensor is hooped. keep thinking this is most likely a screwed PCM as it runs good one time and the next it runs like a tractor. Seems if damp or after a rain it runs weird, but may just be coincidence.
Anyway for you folks just a bit brighter then myself, what do I do next. Help Thing is slowly driving me nuts.
So thought I would share this with you folks. 02 sensor OBD code was 0052. After making sure 02 sensor was plugged in correctly I started truck with remote start and it ran like crap I started to wiggle wires along passenger side of tranny and truck started to run great. Problem was its so tight under there I had to stop truck after a minute as it was burning my arm. so I got some cardboard and a sweater on and took an old yard stick curt it down to about 20 inches and notched the corner.
I then put cardboard inside my sweater sleeve started the truck and with the yard stick I could move the wires around and get the motor to run rough then smooth. found my short. Got a magnifying glass out and there were three bare wires. so I fixed up wires got some of those shrink deals for the wires then some electrical tape, cleared the codes and voila runs like a champ again. Took me about 3.5 hours. I would love to see what a mechanic would have charged me for that fix. Its $125 bucks just to put it on their scope then they would throw parts at it tell it ran ok. I'm positive this bill would have ended up quite high.
I then put cardboard inside my sweater sleeve started the truck and with the yard stick I could move the wires around and get the motor to run rough then smooth. found my short. Got a magnifying glass out and there were three bare wires. so I fixed up wires got some of those shrink deals for the wires then some electrical tape, cleared the codes and voila runs like a champ again. Took me about 3.5 hours. I would love to see what a mechanic would have charged me for that fix. Its $125 bucks just to put it on their scope then they would throw parts at it tell it ran ok. I'm positive this bill would have ended up quite high.
Yeah great 40 k for me 157 k for the previous owners. I drove it for 38 K and then bam it turned into a money pit.
At almost 200,000 miles it will start to nickel and dime you, it's the nature of the beast. You should be happy that it still runs at that mileage (especially if you have a 4.7).
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Well now that I got the motor redone the front axle rebuilt the rear one guts replaced after much fighting with dodge there not much left to **** the bed. Tranny and were done. LOL
Last edited by Northern Goat; Jun 16, 2015 at 10:31 AM.
Transmissions are easy in these things lol (I've done it twice). Little more difficult with a transfer case attached, but still fairly easy.



