Too late man, I already bought the cable lol. As long as it won't hurt anything I'll just install it, what the hell. So the "ported TB" from FastMan is not worth the investment either? Tons of guys seems to swear by it.


Up here in the PacNW (I'm North of Seattle) we don't see temps above 70F but 3-4 months out of the year. RARELY do we see anything above 85F and I commute 8 miles, never going above 45mph so I think I'll keep the thermostat the way it is.


That being said, I wonder if the EFan would even make a difference / be worth the cost because of the same reasons stated above.

 

The power wire will hurt fuel economy, the way it works is that it's an 80 cent resistor that's place in line with the sensor. The resistance "tricks" the PCM to think it's cooler than it actually is and the vehicle dumps more fuel into the mix. Result is a couple more HP at the expense of burning more fuel.

A ported TB is a fantastic mod - IF YOU SUPPORT IT WITH OTHER MODS. Ever hear a chain is only as strong as its weakest link? Well your engine is only going to breath as well as its most restrictive component. Example: using a restrictive muffler. A ported TB can't do much without a CAI, header, ported heads, a cam, custom tune & headers. And all of these are USE LESS if you don't ditch the factory Y pipe. Get it?

A cooler thermostat simply opens at an earlier temperature, IT WILL NOT SOLVE AN OVERHEAT PROBLEM. This is great if you are building a drag strip car, pretty good if you take your vehicle on long highway trips. This is VERY BAD if you only take you truck short distances or do a lot of city driving because then it pretty much assists the oil in building sludge.

WTF does where you live or the climate have to do with replacing a parasitic clutch fan with a beneficial efan? This mod allows more HP to reach the rear wheels while gaining fuel economy. It's the cooler t stat that you certainly should stay away from in cooler climates.

You seem to want to do the cheap, gimmicky mods that dont work but are hesitant to go with proven enhancements because they aren't cheap or require a modicum of actual work to install. You're not taking in what anyone has posted here. IMO you are better off leaving sending the stuff back and leaving it stock...

 

You seem to not read too good. When did I ever say I want to do sh*t cheap? I could give a f*ck about gimmicks. I want to do mods that accomplish decent gas mileage and better throttle response, not turn my 4.7 into a f**king strip car. As I mentioned in earlier post I am NOT a mechanic hence why I came here to get advice on what works and what is sh*t


I got some answers and sure, maybe I was a bit confused and needed clarification so I asked more questions. If I was an expert I wouldn't have come here now right? I'm an admitted noob and didn't try to pass off advice given as bull***t...just wanted clarification.


If I frustrate you don't f**king respond to my post. I don't have the f**king IQ of a stapler but I can tell you if I was on a board where I knew a lot of s**t about the subject, I wouldn't be a dick to newbies who aren't at my level.

 

Ok reading that back after I see it came across harsh man. My PTSD kicks in and my f*cking jarhead mouth shoots off sh*t....my bad.

 

Throw the cable in the trash if you can't return it, because it is trash.

A ported throttle body and a throttle body spacer are two entirely different things. The spacers are paperweights on fuel injected vehicles. That was my point, comparing it to the "power wire".

Knowing the specifics of your driving habits, don't use the 180* tstat. They are right, in that the early 4.7L engines had major issues with sludge buildup.

If you do nothing else, absolutely do the efan mod. Even with no other modifications, the efan mod will deliver power and fuel savings. I don't know any other mod with as great of a ROI.

 

I hear that brother. Fxck you, and check out https://www.facebook.com/DysfunctionalVeterans

 

That's more like it. Thanks for the link!..a page full of ******** that had me and the wife (true Marine wife) in tears laughing so hard. Definitely my crowd.


And I will take your and Hammers advice and not be putting in the power wire, though I'll keep the CAI since I got a deal on it and it'll make the magnaflow sound that much better. I will order the Efan today and try to find a shop to install it. So another noob, non-mechanic question. Do they simply re-route the belt after removing the old fan and installing the efan? Do I need to buy a shorter one? I want to make sure I give the shop all that is needed and specific instructions.

 

I knew you would like it. It helps me when I start thinking about making potato salad.

The belt does not change. The pulley behind the fan is the drive pulley, connected to the crankshaft. The fuel savings comes from unbolting the fan from the front of the pulley, because it causes tons of resistance as it spins.

 

Efan install is pretty easy to do yourself. Hardest part is spinning the old clutch fan off. It's just like removing a lawn mower blade, you have to wedge the shaft so it won't spin while you spin the fan off.

Install of the efan, especially with the Flex-a-Lite kit is a snap. Couple of screws, couple of zip ties, setting the controller and running a power wire.

It's been a couple years since I've installed one, but the Flex-a-Lite website used to have installation instructions so you could read thru it before you bought or while waiting for it to arrive.

 

Ok now sh*t is crystal.. thanks guys. Got everything else done yesterday and the difference is amazing. She drives better, sounds beastly and I'm averaging 13.9 mpg... when driving tame that is. 😁