Attention 4.7 guru's!
#1
Attention 4.7 guru's!
Hey guys so been using the search button and doing my research but still have some questions as I'm not super mechanical.
Background - Stock 2003 2WD Quad Cab A/T with 43k miles, 20" factory rims. City driving 80% of the time.
Just arrived - super chip, cold air induction (sealed box), power cable, Flowmaster 50 series of which local shop will install w/ 3" pipe job. Fastman ported TB wanted but he isn't taking orders at this time... but it is on the list.
Am I forgetting anything?
I keep reading about "gears" but don't understand which I should get. Suggestions? I'd like to get a bit more midrange power on the hwy being that sometimes it take a second for it to jump the revs up so I can pass someone or get out of the way of some idiot. I basically have to floor it to get a response. Also get some "clunking" when shifting from drive to reverse and vice versa.
Engine light is on, code says evap leak... on its 4th dealer gas cap. I get sputtering in the morning but once warm it stops. Suggestions on how to fix myself? Dealer says $500!!!!
Last one ...Repair manual preference?
Background - Stock 2003 2WD Quad Cab A/T with 43k miles, 20" factory rims. City driving 80% of the time.
Just arrived - super chip, cold air induction (sealed box), power cable, Flowmaster 50 series of which local shop will install w/ 3" pipe job. Fastman ported TB wanted but he isn't taking orders at this time... but it is on the list.
Am I forgetting anything?
I keep reading about "gears" but don't understand which I should get. Suggestions? I'd like to get a bit more midrange power on the hwy being that sometimes it take a second for it to jump the revs up so I can pass someone or get out of the way of some idiot. I basically have to floor it to get a response. Also get some "clunking" when shifting from drive to reverse and vice versa.
Engine light is on, code says evap leak... on its 4th dealer gas cap. I get sputtering in the morning but once warm it stops. Suggestions on how to fix myself? Dealer says $500!!!!
Last one ...Repair manual preference?
#3
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Georgia/East Florida
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Answers to all your questions can be found by using the search function.
Oh and keep an eye on the Rustmaster. I had the 50 on my old '04 Hemi, rusted out in 14 months. You havery to get under and check it periodically, the bottom and sides looked to just have surface rust but condensation forming on the inside turned the top into swiss cheese. Also of note, it's a chambered muffler, "flows" worse than what came on the truck. Sounds great, but is a performance killer.
Use the map of the evap system in the DIY section to hunt down the leak, it's almost always a failed hose clamp (about a dollar at the parts store) and/or a split hose at an end (usually at the canister).
This has been discussed in many threads as has regearing.
Oh and if you aren't doing your own work, find someplace else besides your dealer or you'll be broke. $500 to trace an evap leak and replace a dollar clamp or $3 section of hose is just a tad outrageous...
Oh and keep an eye on the Rustmaster. I had the 50 on my old '04 Hemi, rusted out in 14 months. You havery to get under and check it periodically, the bottom and sides looked to just have surface rust but condensation forming on the inside turned the top into swiss cheese. Also of note, it's a chambered muffler, "flows" worse than what came on the truck. Sounds great, but is a performance killer.
Use the map of the evap system in the DIY section to hunt down the leak, it's almost always a failed hose clamp (about a dollar at the parts store) and/or a split hose at an end (usually at the canister).
This has been discussed in many threads as has regearing.
Oh and if you aren't doing your own work, find someplace else besides your dealer or you'll be broke. $500 to trace an evap leak and replace a dollar clamp or $3 section of hose is just a tad outrageous...
Last edited by HammerZ71; 09-23-2015 at 05:37 AM.
#4
Hey guys so been using the search button and doing my research but still have some questions as I'm not super mechanical.
Background - Stock 2003 2WD Quad Cab A/T with 43k miles, 20" factory rims. City driving 80% of the time.
Just arrived - super chip, cold air induction (sealed box), power cable, Flowmaster 50 series of which local shop will install w/ 3" pipe job. Fastman ported TB wanted but he isn't taking orders at this time... but it is on the list.
Am I forgetting anything?
I keep reading about "gears" but don't understand which I should get. Suggestions? I'd like to get a bit more midrange power on the hwy being that sometimes it take a second for it to jump the revs up so I can pass someone or get out of the way of some idiot. I basically have to floor it to get a response. Also get some "clunking" when shifting from drive to reverse and vice versa.
Engine light is on, code says evap leak... on its 4th dealer gas cap. I get sputtering in the morning but once warm it stops. Suggestions on how to fix myself? Dealer says $500!!!!
Last one ...Repair manual preference?
Background - Stock 2003 2WD Quad Cab A/T with 43k miles, 20" factory rims. City driving 80% of the time.
Just arrived - super chip, cold air induction (sealed box), power cable, Flowmaster 50 series of which local shop will install w/ 3" pipe job. Fastman ported TB wanted but he isn't taking orders at this time... but it is on the list.
Am I forgetting anything?
I keep reading about "gears" but don't understand which I should get. Suggestions? I'd like to get a bit more midrange power on the hwy being that sometimes it take a second for it to jump the revs up so I can pass someone or get out of the way of some idiot. I basically have to floor it to get a response. Also get some "clunking" when shifting from drive to reverse and vice versa.
Engine light is on, code says evap leak... on its 4th dealer gas cap. I get sputtering in the morning but once warm it stops. Suggestions on how to fix myself? Dealer says $500!!!!
Last one ...Repair manual preference?
An EVAP leak is not necessarily the fuel cap. I think there is actually a code specifically for the fuel cap. Pull the code when you receive your SC, and go from there.
Do a search here on the forum for a manual. There are links somewhere around here for PDF versions.
I would also change out the thermostat to a 180 degree, flush the coolant system and install an electric fan.
#5
Hammer - Thanks for the response man, true wisdom there. I did use the search function being that it is how I came up with the list of upgrades but there were a couple things I wasn't clear about buy you and Brandon helped clear up much of it...except the gearing thing.
I was referring to a transmission gear set / shift kit that would help with the "clunking" sound from reverse to drive and general hard shifting when on the HWY.
In all I am trying to get better MPG with some performance upgrade being that I am averaging 12mpg now.
Brandon - thanks for the tip on the Flowmaster. I'll move to Magnaflow. I was under the impression the stock thermostat was 180...guess I'll check. What do you mean by electric fan? Don't most cars these days have a radiator fan?
This is what I meant by power cable. (its also where I got the CAI) http://airram.com/product.php?catego...productid=1501
You guys been a great help. I'll take another go around with the search button and dig deeper! Thanks again!
I was referring to a transmission gear set / shift kit that would help with the "clunking" sound from reverse to drive and general hard shifting when on the HWY.
In all I am trying to get better MPG with some performance upgrade being that I am averaging 12mpg now.
Brandon - thanks for the tip on the Flowmaster. I'll move to Magnaflow. I was under the impression the stock thermostat was 180...guess I'll check. What do you mean by electric fan? Don't most cars these days have a radiator fan?
This is what I meant by power cable. (its also where I got the CAI) http://airram.com/product.php?catego...productid=1501
You guys been a great help. I'll take another go around with the search button and dig deeper! Thanks again!
#6
#7
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Georgia/East Florida
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The clunking is pretty much what the 45rfe does. You can spend on a shift kit and still find it makes no difference. Now IF you can find a dealer who will flash it and make it a 545rfe it will smooth out somewhat. All dealers can with the Scantool problem is most don't know they can or won't. The 545rfe will also get a tad better fuel economy especially on the interstate, it gives you a second overdrive.
Efan is about the only mod that will increase MPGs without costing so much it'd take 5 years of driving to recoup in gas what the mod costs. You have a parasitic clutch fan and it draws a good bit of HP away from the rear wheels ESPECIALLY in town where you do a lot of stop and go and are at relatively low RPMs. Many use a junk yard Taurus fan. AIR RAM should have the Flex-a-Lite kit - all you need in one box. Advantage to the Flex-a-Lite is very high CFM with very low amp draw. Because it's electric, no belt to draw on the engine.
The 4.7 isn't known for fuel economy, a pre-06 Hemi will get the same MPGs and put out 100 more HP and Torque to boot. '06+ MDS Hemi will actually get better fuel economy...
Efan is about the only mod that will increase MPGs without costing so much it'd take 5 years of driving to recoup in gas what the mod costs. You have a parasitic clutch fan and it draws a good bit of HP away from the rear wheels ESPECIALLY in town where you do a lot of stop and go and are at relatively low RPMs. Many use a junk yard Taurus fan. AIR RAM should have the Flex-a-Lite kit - all you need in one box. Advantage to the Flex-a-Lite is very high CFM with very low amp draw. Because it's electric, no belt to draw on the engine.
The 4.7 isn't known for fuel economy, a pre-06 Hemi will get the same MPGs and put out 100 more HP and Torque to boot. '06+ MDS Hemi will actually get better fuel economy...
Last edited by HammerZ71; 09-23-2015 at 12:21 PM.
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#9
This is what I meant by power cable. (its also where I got the CAI) http://airram.com/product.php?catego...productid=1501
Hammer nailed the rest on the head. The e-fan is a great mod that can recoup its cost in gas savings within a year or two, depending on fuel prices. As for overall gas mileage, see my signature below for the mods I had and my average MPG. You will get less, because I had the updated '08 4.7L which made 310hp and 330tq stock, compared to the 2003's 235hp and 295tq.
Last edited by Brandon Anderson; 09-25-2015 at 06:13 AM.
#10
I would not lower the temp of a 4.7L, especially one that sits as much as this one (2003 with 43K?). You want the motor to run full temp to mitigate condensation and sludge, something which they are already prone to.