Removing the caliper and checking rotor and hub turn was one of the first things I did. Could not tell any appreciable difference the turn on either side. Both were easy to turn. Put it back together and just as soon as you touch the brakes the right side will not turn freely after that. As I stated you can then force the caliper pistons back into the right side caliper and it frees up totally till you touch the brake pedal again. Weird!!!
Thanks Guy's
Milt

 

Anyway you can expose the caliper pistons without damaging the caliper? If you can, lube the heck out of the extended and exposed pistons and then push/release the brake pedal to see if they retract back in. Have you tried the compressed air through the lines yet? The inside lines could be collapsing. Other than that, I'm at a lose as well.


SJ03

 

SmokinJoe02 is correct about the piston in the caliper might be sticking.

Have a good look at the sealing rubber that fits around the caliper piston.
If torn or damaged or not sitting in place correctly, depending if you have the plastic or steel piston types, either rust and or brake dust and crud etc builds up in and around the torn rubber boot area of the brake caliper piston. This will 100% stop the piston from retracting and "floating" the pads over the rotor.

The sealing boots job is to stop exactly what might be happening to your caliper piston in that the crap is fouling it cauing the piston to not retract and stick.

Don't know if you have really scrutinised this area, but it cant hurt and also give it a good clean off using brake de duster or something.

If all is good........ Time for a new front brake caliper.

Check which type you have as stated, there are steel piston ones and a plastic style.

Al.

 

Brand new calipers. Boots god and everything well lubed. I think the next step is air both ways through the front feed tubes. This will entail pulling the rear master cylinder line and removing the flex hoses for both sides at the frame and seeing what happens when air is blown through from both sides in both directions!

 

Sorry Milt.
Just re read your original post outlining "all new stuff".
Hmmmm this is a problem.
Blowing out your lines might solve the issue or at leat ponit you in the right direction.
If that doesn't work, a trip to the sealership and the use of their star scan tool to cycle the ABS module might be your next step??
Al.

 

I agree but since this unit only has rear wheel abs I can't see where the abs would affect the front brakes?

 

Any update Milt?
Hope you got it all sorted bud��

 

I'd personally start by pulling that new caliper and getting a new one to eliminate it being a bad caliper right from the start. Just my opinion, but even new stuff sometimes is messed up from the get go.

 

If he's already changed the caliper then it stands to reason the caliper is not the issue. Although it could happen, I doubt the replacement caliper would exhibit the same symptoms and issues of the one it replaced.

I've seen this happen on the vintage Volkswagen forum, and the culprit turns out to be a bad flexible brake line. What happens is as the brake line ages the rubber loses its composition and swells from the inside, reducing the diameter the fluid travels. The brake line may look normal from the outside even though there is internal swelling.

I would suggest the OP replace that brake line and check again. It's a shame he spent a lot of money replacing parts that didn't need to be replaced.

 

I've seen this happen on the vintage Volkswagen forum, and the culprit turns out to be a bad flexible brake line. What happens is as the brake line ages the rubber loses its composition and swells from the inside, reducing the diameter the fluid travels. The brake line may look normal from the outside even though there is internal swelling.

I would suggest the OP replace that brake line and check again. It's a shame he spent a lot of money replacing parts that didn't need to be replaced.


Agreed. I learned the same thing in school.