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Right front caliper not releasing.

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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 12:10 PM
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Default Right front caliper not releasing.

First the specs: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab 5.7L 4x4 Thunder Road Edition. Rear ABS only.


Problem: Noticed around 30 days ago that the right front rotor seemed to be hot and sometimes smelled. Well it was time for a brake job anyway (had just hit 35k). When I put it up in the air I noticed the right front tire was hard to turn and the pads in the caliper weren't pulling back so I decided to just change everything on all four wheels. Changed the pads, rotors, calipers and flex lines, lubed slides good and make sure clips were in place Even checked the feeder line from the distribution frame block on the left side to the right side to make sure there was no corrosion or swelling (none). Flushed the system with new dot 3 and bleed all four wheels in sequence RR, LR, RF, LF.
Cranked it up and was feeling good till I drove it. Uh Oh!!! Same thing!!! After 5 or six miles the RF rotor temp is around 340 and the left front is 140. Great petal, rechecked for air in system (none found). If you pull both front wheels and tires the left front caliper pistons extend and retract with the pedal press. The right front does not go back with pedal release but will press back with a screwdriver applied to the pad with no inside pedal pressure applied.


Any ideas folks?????
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 12:32 PM
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Welcome to the Forum!


Sounds like a rebuild is needed or just buy a new caliper.


SJ03
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 12:52 PM
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Thanks for the welcome. I already have replaced everything with brand new on all four wheels (note Post ) with no change.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 01:09 PM
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That's right, I missed that.


Were the calipers new or remanufactured? Could have gotten a bad one outta the box.


SJ03
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 01:23 PM
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Try bleeding just the fronts brakes again.


SJ03
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 04:14 PM
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All parts brand new no reman parts were used!


I'm starting to lean toward the master cylinder being bad. Pulled it away from the booster and had good booster seal vacuum. Tommorrow I plan to disconnect both the right and left frame to caliper flex hoses and disconnect at the master cylinder then blow compressed air at about 80 psi in both directions to see if there is a line restriction.


Keep thinking guys!!!
Thanks
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 06:42 PM
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I'm doubtful it would be master cylinder. MC is responsible for both front or both rear. I think your along the right course thinking blockage in the line to the RF. Do you have front wheel abs? If so, may be an issue with the abs controller?? I may have missed it but is your wheel hub definitely ok ? I had one pretty much locking up when hot.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 08:16 AM
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Rear abs only. As for the RF wheel hub I kinda ruled that out because after sitting and cooling down for a couple of hours the wheel and rotor is still hard to turn when jacked up and not touching the ground. If it was a hub issue I would think that as it cooled it should free up and as stated the pads can be forced back when it is either hot or cold and it turn freely. Thanks guys. All suggestions welcome!!!
Milt
 
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by milt
If it was a hub issue I would think that as it cooled it should free up

What makes you think that? Still, if the bearings were shot, they'd be noisy. Try removing the calipers, then turning the hubs by hand... see if the problem side is stiffer than the other.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 06:28 AM
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^^^^what he said^^^^

For the time it will take to remove the caliper and check, it could save you hours of further fault finding plus lots if cash.

Al.
 
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