As per the title. Yup thats right my rear end is grinding and howling again. It's been 2 years since last done and bout 100,000km's. I think i've had it with this rear end. Time to say goodbye to this truck. Its been a good 8 year go with her.

 

Cheaper to rebuild the rear end. Everything mechanical will fail at some point. Even on a new truck.

 

In that time frame how many time did the fluid get charged.

 

My first thought, as well. Not saying you are to blame, so don't take it the wrong way -- it's just a question. That's a lot of mileage (kilometerage?) in a relatively short period of time. Have you been following the factory requirements as far as fluid changes in that time? Are you SURE your fluid levels have been correct, as well?

 

I'd be more pressed to think that if it had a rebuild the ring/carrier lash is off or the pinion crush sleeve wasn't properly done. Some people never change their fluid and the rear ends last forever, as long as some sort of fluid is in there it should be fine even 2 years later These rear ends just don't go out without a major event.


Mine toasted itself due to 400+ Hemi horsepower and pretty much a burnout every day for a year between me and my ex, the truck never got a break from some sort of abuse. Main thing that caused my rearend to fail was debris from 2 spider gear sets failing a week apart and the ensuing impossibility to get it completely clean and then the US General Diff pin being a piece of **** and bending which made me have to cut it out of the carrier with a torch (Big mess!). Nowadays I don't do as many burnouts, went from 4 sets of rear tires in a year down to 2 this year and I'm proud of that. Now I'm all about straight line traction, throw it in 4x4 up to 25mph then put er back in 2wd to finish the race.


One nice thing to know is that a Chrysler 9.25 will work from a 4 or 2 wheel drive truck V6 or V8 even if the junkyards say it wont. If you get one from a 2 wheel drive truck you may have to weld bump stops on it if you're doing rock climbing style articulation otherwise if you keep it mostly straight on the road & between the trees don't even worry about a bump stop.


I threw a 9.25 out of an 03 V6 ram into my 04 Ram, no problems and paid only $450 cuz the junkyard doesn't sell many V6 differentials out of 2wd Rams lol. Its identical in every respect except the bump stops which you can weld on at a later date if you ever need to without removing the rearend. Swap was a total of 4 hours, most of the time was spent painting & cleaning the junkyard rearend. I don't have time to **** with diff rebuilds on my daily driver, downtime more than a few days is not an option.

 

If you keep replacing the rear end with the stock carrier of course its going to fail. They all do.. you must update the carrier with and after market. One that the posi clips don’t fall off on..if its not the clips this time then its the mechanics fault..

 

This. I never understand it when something breaks on a vehicle and people say, "That's it! I've had it with this piece of **** that broke again after thousands and thousands of miles."

I have a 2006 Mazda 3 with 147K on the clock that I'm dumping about $700 in brakes and suspension parts (and some incidentals). The car is paid off and the money spent saves me in the long run over buying, insuring, and tagging a new(er) vehicle.

 

You know why they fall off right? If it has the Pin with the oiling grooves that US General makes in it and the slot in the middle then its a junk pin! A Hemi with a tuner or a Hemi that gets a work out will bend it and cause the clips to throw...happened to me within a week of putting the US General Pin & spider gears in and it caused the spider gears to get wedged on the pin and I had to cut them out with a torch.


Use a solid diff pin whenever possible, oiling grooves be damned it'll last.

 

My 2005 has been paid off since 2007 (yay, personal injury insurance money!). It's now over ten years old and just this year I sank a bunch of money into it to replace most of the front end suspension parts before they really failed (I probably could have gone longer on some of it, too). For about two new car payments I've got a brand new front end that should last the life of the vehicle from here on out. I've replaced the EGR valve a few times over the last ten years, had a tensioner pulley grenade on the highway which shredded the serpentine belt a few years back, and had the LBJs go bad a few years ago, too. I just replaced brake pads for the second time in 88K miles, and the rotors will need replacing here soon, too (second time). Other than that, I can't complain. Spending a few hundred here or a thousand there every few years is still way cheaper than outright replacing it with a new vehicle that will either have regular payments or need regular repairs, as well.

 

My 08 has help up well to a Diablosport tuned Hemi for over 84K miles. I think the manual says to change the fluid every 60k miles. The only issue that I have has was not the fault of the diff, but the dealer mechanic. I had a pinion seal leak, they tech changed the seal. He didn't realize that the spring from the seal had fallen back into the housing. It got in the bearings and caused a vibration. They replaced all of the bearings and it is still fine to this day. I am glad that mine came with a lifetime powertrain warranty so it is covered as long as Chrysler is in business. Mine is a 3.92 anti-spin (LS) diff.