Not a problem DonnyC, it's what DF is here for.
Really, there shouldn't be any noticeable amount of metal shavings on the magnet. However a grey paste is kind of expected on an older trans. It's just friction material from the clutches and bands, that wear over time. If there is lots of metallic shavings in the pan, obviously there is a problem, and the "hard parts" (drums, case, valves etc) are wearing, requiring a complete rebuild before it gets costly.

 

So I think I have worked out a plan of attack.

I have an appointment at a local shop (not dealership as I wasn't going to get the dealership to do the repairs anyway...because of their much higher costs).

Also, this isn't my regular local shop - as they are convinced that the issue is internal - which it might be if it were a solenoid, but they also are saying just to do a fluid change and "see what happens" (with a belief that I will likely be rebuilding the transmission. I feel that this plan does not address the heart of matter, as the check engine light probably didn't come on because I just needed a fluid change.

The shop that I am going to is one that my wife's cousin referred me to as they have had work done there and are satisfied.

I'm going to ask them to check everything that relates to the P0 846 code that is not in the transmission (which ones of these would that be?) - 2/4 Pressure Switch harness is open or shorted
- 2/4 Pressure Switch circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty 2/4 Pressure Switch
- Internal transmission damage
- Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM)

If one or more of those things are faulty then then need to get replaced whether or not I rebuild the transmission...is that right?

If so I will get those thing(s) replaced.

At that point I don't know if I will do an ATF fluid and filter change (including the secondary filter that you told me about. Actually on second thought I might get that screw on external filter changed anyway...is that something that even I could do myself?)

If it is none of those external parts (and again if someone could tell me which of those things are external) then I'll ask them how long a transmission rebuild is going to take.

I already got a ballpark coast from them, as I asked them worst case scenario, so I assume that if the recommendation is a rebuild and they already ballparked the price then I can't do any damage still driving it in our small town.

The reason that I'll ask how long the rebuild will take is not because I anticipate going there right away, but once they drop the pan if they find other issues (other than a solenoid) then we are heading that way, right? And there is no reason to do an ATF fluid change, or top up the ATF (as I'll loose 1/3 dropping the pan) just to bring it back in a few days for a rebuild (if it isn't just a solenoid).

So why not drop the pan on Friday when I take it in, if it isn't an external part? Well at that point I want to make sure that I have shopped around properly to make sure that whoever looks at the solenoid, is the same place I'd want rebuilding my transmission - because once the pan is dropped IF the transmission needs to be rebuilt I'm probably not driving the truck to another repair shop.

Does that make sense?

 

If it is the govenor pressure solenoid would you also replace the transducer right away?

 

Might as well as your already right there. Definitely wouldn't hurt. Just replace them with good sensor, not cheap ones from the parts store.

 

Erik is giving you good advice, If it was me Id replace the sensor with a OEM Part, While in there I would replace both filters,and I'd use the correct ATF Fluid not a Universal 1 FLuid for all cars, I use Amsoil but OEM Mopar fluid would be just fine. I also would FLush the tranny but that is just me I want as much of the old fluid that is in there out. Complete flush You are looking at about 16 to 20 Quarts depending on how you do it. I really don't think you have serious tranny issues going by what you are saying.

 

Good idea about the OEM part. I should call the repair shop ahead and see if that is something that they can get on the same day. (If not, I don't want to drop the pan and have no vehicle all weekend - granted I'd only drive a few km's all weekend any way.)

I guess the one thing that makes me wonder if there could be a bigger issue is something I posted on the first page:
"So today, I drove to the grocery store. While going out, a block away from my place the check engine light came back on near a stop sign, and the truck seemed sluggish starting from the stop. I went to the gas station - 1 km from home - put in fuel as I was at 1/2 a tank before and drove away from the gas station to the grocery store without feeling sluggish. After I bought the groceries, I drove the truck home -check engine light still on - and again it was not sluggish and could reach 50 km/h and the truck seed to shift fine."

The part about it being sluggish makes me a little more unsettled.

I think I'm going to wait at the shop on Friday until they finis checking any exterior components. Then If I get them to drop the pan on Friday I want to see the magnet and see if there are metal shavings. (I've never dealt with this shop before...but they are coming as a recommendation).

 

As far a fluid type:

So I need to use Mopar ATF+4? (Sounds like Mopar ATF+3 isn't made anymore.)

However, I don't know what type is in there right now; brand, AFT+3 (I guess it could be ATF+4, if they did any transmission work before). But I don't know.

Loving the advice! But it does bring in extra questions, does it matter what ATF I already have in there if I'm just doing a drain?

 

Mopar ATF+4 use this, Also it is possible it was sluggish because it wasnt shifting right do to the sensor or going into a limp mode. I really think at this point you are driving yourself crazy for no reason, Bring it to a good honest shop IF they say it needs a rebuild Id want to know why and probably would get a second opinion, You could also bring it to a dealer who is familiar with your truck.

 

The sluggishness sounds like the trans is in limp mode. In limp mode the trans will lock into 2nd gear. That will make for a sluggish start. ATF+4 is an improved ATF+3... So in other ways, AFT+4 is better.

 

You are probably right that I am driving myself crazy...and hopefully for no reason.

Because I'm not knowledgeable in these things I wanted to research so that if there is a suggestion from the repair shop, that I actually have a clue what they are talking about. I hate saying to a repair shop "What does that mean?" I feel like that puts a big "SUCKER " sign on my forehead.

Thankfully, I'm going out tonight to play floor hockey...so I wont be able to post anymore questions!

Thanks for your help...and patience! I fell like you guys helped me a lot to know what to look for and ask about.