UPDATE:

Took the truck this morning to the repair shop as planned.

It took them a while to diagnose the issue. They looked at any external electrical thing that could be worn or shorted (my understanding).

While hooking it up to the scanner they told me that they could get all the solenoids to respond except for the "2C solenoid". (So it appears that it isn't the governor pressure solenoid).

In stead the suggested repair is to replace the solenoid pack (apparently there are 6 solenoids in this pack and it comes as a package not an individual 2C solenoid. That pack is pricing out at $482.

Because that will require dropping the pan we will also be doing the filter kit (which includes: gasket, internal filter and screw on filter) as well as new transmission fluid. They price me in for MAXLIFE ATF (but I asked if they could use MOPAR ATF+4 (they can, although it is considerably more expensive: $115.90 for the MOPAR as opposed to the $39.92 for the MAXLIFE).

I'll probably go with the MOPAR.

It's going to take a few days to get that solenoid pack in (and here in Canada Monday is a holiday)...so I've got a few days to ask some questions.

What do you guys think about the recommended fix?

 

Sounds about right... However I don't think I'd pay the extra for the Mopar fluid. ATF+4 is all the same. ATF+4 is a basically a criteria rating trans fluid has to pass to be called ATF+4... So personally I wouldnt pay that much more. But it's your money and I'm sure you won't go wrong either way

 

If it was me I would use Amsoil Tranny fluid, everyone will have there favorites but Amsoil always has done well by me and it will be cheaper then the Mopar and I believe to be a better quiality.

 

Thanks for the comments on Tranny Fluid.

I guess I have until Tuesday or Wednesday to decide.

 

I was chatting with a buddy of mine and he offered this suggestion:

"Look on the fire wall on the passenger side! There will be 3 connectors going to a box! Unplug them then plug them back in! Next go into fuse box under the hood and pull the transmission relay and switch it with the a/c clutch relay!! Then take it for a boot and see how it drives! I just had this problem with my truck!!! Works mint now

Mine was weak and ticking and sticking ! I have a feeling yours is the wiring issue by the firewall! That's what most forums are saying! Common problem with these trucks."

What do you all think?

Worth the shot?

 

Sorry for not getting back, I completely missed your thread past few days.

I would HIGHLY recc'd using ATF+4. I did a TON of research a few years ago to compare the differences to other fluids and not a single 3rd party company has the certifications and compositions that match the quality and lubricity of ATF+4. I've looked over several graphs comparing the different types of fluid and ATF+4 is a high quality fluid. You are spending several hundred, I would not skimp on $80 to go with an "all-in-one" fluid. Actually, if you were in warranty, that would void any trans warranty because dealerships DO send out chemical samples on fluids if they suspect any wrong doing.

Also, are they doing just a pan fluid change? $115 for 6qts is extremely high, especially if they already have to drop pan anyways. I paid that much for 20qts from the dealer for a complete flush.

Sleep well.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for checking in..I've found this forum very helpful!

I think I agree with getting the Mopar ATF+4.

The will e changing all the fluid, not just that which is in the pan (but I'm not sure that I want them to flush it...so there may be some old fluid left.)

On the estimate/workorder/print-off thing that they gave me it was just priced for an "all-in-one". Because of this forum I asked about Mopar ATF+4, and the $115 i the price they gave me after checking on the computer.

I'm guessing that this might be a USA forum? I'm from Canada and I don't know if that makes the Mopar ATF+4 more expensive, maybe?

The filter pack is pricing out at $65, the "all-in-one" ATF at either $40 or $120 Mopar (and then whatever time they are putting to it). I'm also assuming that they have built a "flush" into the price as it seems to be standard practice...but I may opt out of that option.

When I caled around and asked about a ATF change I was being quoted about $200 from everywhere (the dealer was higher). That $200 would include the filter kit, oil and flush. So although it certainly is higher than what you paid...it unfortunately seems to be the going rate here.

 

$120 for all new fluid is a fair price for the ATF+4. It is ~$7/qt here in the states last time I checked. yes, most of us are from the US.
Come back and let us know how you make out with everything when it gets completed.

 

Hey all,

So I expect that I will have the truck into the shop tomorrow (if they get the sensor pack tomorrow) or Wednesday.

HOWEVER, I driven the truck a bit (under 100kms) since Wednesday February 10 (when they reset the computer) and the check engine light HAS NOT come back on.

I guess this could mean a few things:

1) That the sensor is on its last leg...but still working now

2) That there could be a different issue.


How can I find out if it is the wiring harness to the PCM, or the PCM itself?
(If it were either of those things then they might be on their last leg, and work sometimes...as the check engine light doesn't immediately go back on.)

What do you guys think? I'm prepared do do the job that the mechanic suggested (filter kit; solenoid pack and change ATF)...but I sure don't want to spend the money if it is a different issue.

 

It can take a little while for a code to pop up again. Sounds like the shop is taking care of it correctly. I'm no expert, but it sounds like the solenoid pack would be the next course of action.