5.7 valve springs
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5.7 valve springs
04 dodge ram.
Cylinder 1 misfire
Checked electrical and getting sprark
I think i have it tracked down to a bad valve stem seal.
If it were to be the spring the valve would have droped and it would be heard.
My qestion is before i dig in to the cylinder head. Has anyone upgraded there springs to 6.1s? Do i do them all or just exhaust.
Cylinder 1 misfire
Checked electrical and getting sprark
I think i have it tracked down to a bad valve stem seal.
If it were to be the spring the valve would have droped and it would be heard.
My qestion is before i dig in to the cylinder head. Has anyone upgraded there springs to 6.1s? Do i do them all or just exhaust.
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Just done the plugs two weeks ago. I switched coils with #2 then reset the computer. Drove 4 days and light came back on, got codes pulled again hoping it was the coil but still #1. So make them all 6.1 springs? Intake and exhaust? Some people say just exhaust, would you know why. Just dont want to mess anything up. Its my dd and work truck. First dodge ive owned and like it a lot better then ford for sure
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First of all, a great test is a vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold behind the throttle body (connect to brake booster port or vacuum port) and view if the needle bounces rapidly on the gauge or with any rhythm at idle. If it fluctuates rapidly and IS NOT steady that could indicate a busted spring, if you have to second guess yourself if its moving or not, you're probably ok on valve springs, the gauge will give you a great piece of mind prior to digging into the engine.
Also removing the valve cover will have to be done anyway to upgrade to your springs, when you remove it check the valve springs for broken pieces & cracks, then check if there is any slop in the rocker arms, if so remove them and inspect for wear and then re-torque the rocker arms and check for slop, if it still has slop your lifter collapsed as mine did and will need to be replaced. Pushrods & rocker arms will probably have some noticeable wear, but will be more than capable of making 250,000+ miles, unless they are severely scored, all that matters is that there is minimal slop on the pushrod when the rocker arm rails are re-torqued. Rock Auto has lifters for $97 a side (8 for $97), so $194 for all 16, or you could do one side like I did, if it isn't broke why fix it? and why ruin a good head gasket if you don't have to? also why do so much work at once and be rushed, if lifters collapse in the future it isn't going to destroy your engine, so replace as needed
I've heard many people advised against 6.1 springs on a 5.7 despite it being so highly thought of. Any thoughts on this subject? I never got springs because I never got a straight answer on weather or not the 6.1's were any good, heard of a few failures 6.1 springs.
Also removing the valve cover will have to be done anyway to upgrade to your springs, when you remove it check the valve springs for broken pieces & cracks, then check if there is any slop in the rocker arms, if so remove them and inspect for wear and then re-torque the rocker arms and check for slop, if it still has slop your lifter collapsed as mine did and will need to be replaced. Pushrods & rocker arms will probably have some noticeable wear, but will be more than capable of making 250,000+ miles, unless they are severely scored, all that matters is that there is minimal slop on the pushrod when the rocker arm rails are re-torqued. Rock Auto has lifters for $97 a side (8 for $97), so $194 for all 16, or you could do one side like I did, if it isn't broke why fix it? and why ruin a good head gasket if you don't have to? also why do so much work at once and be rushed, if lifters collapse in the future it isn't going to destroy your engine, so replace as needed
I've heard many people advised against 6.1 springs on a 5.7 despite it being so highly thought of. Any thoughts on this subject? I never got springs because I never got a straight answer on weather or not the 6.1's were any good, heard of a few failures 6.1 springs.
Last edited by JoshSlash87; Mar 2, 2016 at 09:29 PM.
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First of all, a great test is a vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold behind the throttle body (connect to brake booster port or vacuum port) and view if the needle bounces rapidly on the gauge or with any rhythm at idle. If it fluctuates rapidly and IS NOT steady that could indicate a busted spring, if you have to second guess yourself if its moving or not, you're probably ok on valve springs, the gauge will give you a great piece of mind prior to digging into the engine.
Also removing the valve cover will have to be done anyway to upgrade to your springs, when you remove it check the valve springs for broken pieces & cracks, then check if there is any slop in the rocker arms, if so remove them and inspect for wear and then re-torque the rocker arms and check for slop, if it still has slop your lifter collapsed as mine did and will need to be replaced. Pushrods & rocker arms will probably have some noticeable wear, but will be more than capable of making 250,000+ miles, unless they are severely scored, all that matters is that there is minimal slop on the pushrod when the rocker arm rails are re-torqued. Rock Auto has lifters for $97 a side (8 for $97), so $194 for all 16, or you could do one side like I did, if it isn't broke why fix it? and why ruin a good head gasket if you don't have to? also why do so much work at once and be rushed, if lifters collapse in the future it isn't going to destroy your engine, so replace as needed
I've heard many people advised against 6.1 springs on a 5.7 despite it being so highly thought of. Any thoughts on this subject? I never got springs because I never got a straight answer on weather or not the 6.1's were any good, heard of a few failures 6.1 springs.
Also removing the valve cover will have to be done anyway to upgrade to your springs, when you remove it check the valve springs for broken pieces & cracks, then check if there is any slop in the rocker arms, if so remove them and inspect for wear and then re-torque the rocker arms and check for slop, if it still has slop your lifter collapsed as mine did and will need to be replaced. Pushrods & rocker arms will probably have some noticeable wear, but will be more than capable of making 250,000+ miles, unless they are severely scored, all that matters is that there is minimal slop on the pushrod when the rocker arm rails are re-torqued. Rock Auto has lifters for $97 a side (8 for $97), so $194 for all 16, or you could do one side like I did, if it isn't broke why fix it? and why ruin a good head gasket if you don't have to? also why do so much work at once and be rushed, if lifters collapse in the future it isn't going to destroy your engine, so replace as needed
I've heard many people advised against 6.1 springs on a 5.7 despite it being so highly thought of. Any thoughts on this subject? I never got springs because I never got a straight answer on weather or not the 6.1's were any good, heard of a few failures 6.1 springs.
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I supose what ill do is buy a spring, valve seal and a lifter online and when they get here that following weekend ill tear everything apart and see what is going on and if any one of these problems are the issue i can replace it and give my feed back for others seeking the same issues. Thanks guys for the input. If you have anyother ideas on a single cylinder missfire i would like to make a list on parts i can stock up for to be prepared so im not going in blind to be a part i cant get local
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Captain
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I supose what ill do is buy a spring, valve seal and a lifter online and when they get here that following weekend ill tear everything apart and see what is going on and if any one of these problems are the issue i can replace it and give my feed back for others seeking the same issues. Thanks guys for the input. If you have anyother ideas on a single cylinder missfire i would like to make a list on parts i can stock up for to be prepared so im not going in blind to be a part i cant get local
Does the engine sound normal?
Do you hear any ticking? if so how loud?
Does the power seem normal or below average?
Do you see a blueish grey smoke out the back on take off? or a smell of oil?
If you hear nothing out of the norm of what you're used to I'd automatically rule out something majorly wrong. Now...the misfire could be caused by bad plugs, (worn gap on the spark plugs), spark plug wires cross fading into eachother.
What you must do is go to an auto parts store or Harbor Freight & get a vacuum gauge, connect it and see if the needle jumps around or just isn't steady, if its smooth and acts fine and you hear no mechanical noises or metallic tapping theres no reason to dig into the engine, try dumb things like replacing injector, plugs & wires on cylinder #1 before you dig into an engine. If it seems fine other than a code throwing, then I would be very hesitant to rip apart an otherwise fine engine.
You're going to know if a spring broke, erratic idle, ticking, excessive lope to the engine and an odd exhaust note or burbling. I had my engine pegged as bad springs when my lifter collapsed, but taking your time to diagnose a problem and feel around ruled the day and helped get to the meat & potatoes of the situation.
To answer your question "could a collapsed lifter cause a misfire"...yes it could, my #2 cylinder exhaust valve had slop in it and my vacuum gauge did not fluctuate at all and I had NO check engine light despite having almost a 1/4 inch of play in my #2 cyl exhaust rocker, if it were an intake valve its very possible it could cause a misfire, mine did not, but others have reported a check engine light with this issue.
Now I've had misfire readings before on cylinder #6 & #7, I changed my intake gaskets and got rid of the problem because they leaked.
Its a lot like judging when a speaker is about to blow, if it sounds fine then it IS fine, if it sounds like its struggling, it IS struggling. If it sounds like its ticking excessive then you probably have some problems.
Last edited by JoshSlash87; Mar 3, 2016 at 03:52 AM.
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Does the engine sound normal?
Do you hear any ticking? if so how loud?
Does the power seem normal or below average?
Do you see a blueish grey smoke out the back on take off? or a smell of oil?
If you hear nothing out of the norm of what you're used to I'd automatically rule out something majorly wrong. Now...the misfire could be caused by bad plugs, (worn gap on the spark plugs), spark plug wires cross fading into eachother.
What you must do is go to an auto parts store or Harbor Freight & get a vacuum gauge, connect it and see if the needle jumps around or just isn't steady, if its smooth and acts fine and you hear no mechanical noises or metallic tapping theres no reason to dig into the engine, try dumb things like replacing injector, plugs & wires on cylinder #1 before you dig into an engine. If it seems fine other than a code throwing, then I would be very hesitant to rip apart an otherwise fine engine.
You're going to know if a spring broke, erratic idle, ticking, excessive lope to the engine and an odd exhaust note or burbling. I had my engine pegged as bad springs when my lifter collapsed, but taking your time to diagnose a problem and feel around ruled the day and helped get to the meat & potatoes of the situation.
To answer your question "could a collapsed lifter cause a misfire"...yes it could, my #2 cylinder exhaust valve had slop in it and my vacuum gauge did not fluctuate at all and I had NO check engine light despite having almost a 1/4 inch of play in my #2 cyl exhaust rocker, if it were an intake valve its very possible it could cause a misfire, mine did not, but others have reported a check engine light with this issue.
Now I've had misfire readings before on cylinder #6 & #7, I changed my intake gaskets and got rid of the problem because they leaked.
Its a lot like judging when a speaker is about to blow, if it sounds fine then it IS fine, if it sounds like its struggling, it IS struggling. If it sounds like its ticking excessive then you probably have some problems.
Do you hear any ticking? if so how loud?
Does the power seem normal or below average?
Do you see a blueish grey smoke out the back on take off? or a smell of oil?
If you hear nothing out of the norm of what you're used to I'd automatically rule out something majorly wrong. Now...the misfire could be caused by bad plugs, (worn gap on the spark plugs), spark plug wires cross fading into eachother.
What you must do is go to an auto parts store or Harbor Freight & get a vacuum gauge, connect it and see if the needle jumps around or just isn't steady, if its smooth and acts fine and you hear no mechanical noises or metallic tapping theres no reason to dig into the engine, try dumb things like replacing injector, plugs & wires on cylinder #1 before you dig into an engine. If it seems fine other than a code throwing, then I would be very hesitant to rip apart an otherwise fine engine.
You're going to know if a spring broke, erratic idle, ticking, excessive lope to the engine and an odd exhaust note or burbling. I had my engine pegged as bad springs when my lifter collapsed, but taking your time to diagnose a problem and feel around ruled the day and helped get to the meat & potatoes of the situation.
To answer your question "could a collapsed lifter cause a misfire"...yes it could, my #2 cylinder exhaust valve had slop in it and my vacuum gauge did not fluctuate at all and I had NO check engine light despite having almost a 1/4 inch of play in my #2 cyl exhaust rocker, if it were an intake valve its very possible it could cause a misfire, mine did not, but others have reported a check engine light with this issue.
Now I've had misfire readings before on cylinder #6 & #7, I changed my intake gaskets and got rid of the problem because they leaked.
Its a lot like judging when a speaker is about to blow, if it sounds fine then it IS fine, if it sounds like its struggling, it IS struggling. If it sounds like its ticking excessive then you probably have some problems.
Power is good. Except when it has its random poblems coming to or at a stop
Exhaust is fine, except for manifold leak on passenger side. When it goes through its misfire mood the exaust isn't horrible Just a bit out of rythem
Plugs and wires done
Switched #1 and 2 coil packs and reset the computer after tune up
Today the check engine light is off for now but will be back later today or tomorrow for a week or two then back off for a day. The light goes away on its own sometimes.