I was wondering about the egr delete and if it is beneficial on the hemi. I have deleted them on a couple of my other vehicles but some just do not like the thing messed with.

Deleting the egr will also drop the incoming charge which makes a difference as well.

I know on my car I tried a few different things to lower the incoming charge including heat shield under cai and running some ducting and it made a significant power increase. however it was a turbo car so under hood heat was a bigger problem.

I am sure you guys have these hemi's all figured out, I on the other hand am just learning

 

You never stop learning on these The next thing I'm going to do is shield the intake as well, I have a metal K&N intake and its more prone to heat soak.


On my Neon's deleting the EGR at least never hurt anything, my Neon's always beat other Neons in the area, on the Hemi I hear a 50/50 split yay or nay to do it and I've yet to do it, someday I might if someone actually has proof of benefits, until then I'm good on not having a check engine light on all the time.

 

I hear ya on the check engine light as that becomes a bit annoying.

I have a cai that looks to be custom, by that I mean I think the po made it. lol

It is also metal and has a Y with an air filter on each side. It definitely needs to be shielded as it runs tight to the metal tubing " for a/c I think" so the heat transfers.

I might play around with ducting; more of an experiment to see if I can cool the incoming charge. We had great results on a track car with ducting but results vary and it is highly debated if it works.

I don't want to throw a ton of money at this truck, maybe 5k but I want to bring out its potential.

The clean tb and seafoam treatment made a noticeable difference so on to the headers. Hopefully after some research on exhaust setup I can get some decent power increase and a great sound.

 

You'll love the headers!. Just got mine on and they're amazing, I've got to weld up my exhaust post headers & button the mid pipes up but so far so good. The thing is like a runaway locomotive with the headers on. Headers and the Superchips Tune really make the Hemi a force to behold. My latest thing is to wave "good bye" to people at stop lights as they try to race or pass me on the On Ramp.

 

Lmao. I am more excited now to get them on, I cant wait. I have three broke studs and have yet to crack any loose so I hope this wont turn out to be an ordeal.

I am having a problem with my truck stalling when I stop "like at a light" which I hoped was the plugs etc. It is weird because it only happens every once in 20-30 stops. There are other times it seems like it is going to die " rpms drop super low" but then it will idle up "surge" and come back to a normal idle. Also when it dies it will fire right back up and idle fine.

My thoughts are crank or cam sensor but I have no codes popping up. If I need to start a new thread I will

 

My truck did that twice yesterday, stalled once and rpms got low within a few seconds later after restarting at a stop, but its been fine since and never done it before or since that lone incident. if by chance I miss that thread, send me a message if you find the fix

Do yourself a favor and don't take the manifold studs out unless you have a cutting torch to get the studs cherry red. Heat every stud before you try it, you may only get one shot to do it. The stud/bolt extractors I bought did nothing for me and were a waste of money. Instead of the 10mm head, my new bolts are 13mm heads, so I have faith for the future if I ever need to remove them.


I broke 2 studs on the passengers side rear of the head, the top left stud/bolt, and secondary bolt from the 2nd from left exhaust port, but I had daylight fading fast and the drivers side yet to do and my brothers time with his torches running low, so I put copper permatex on the new header gaskets and bolted it up...so far no leaks and it fits very tight to the head (despite it being a slight defeat its definitely better than it was before I started the job! it had 2 broke stud heads on cylinder #8 and it leaked) got lucky with where the bolts broke and its holding tight, if it leaks I'm at least better prepared to take care of it now without the stress of wasting somebodies time. I tried briefly to drill the stud out and was making great progress until the bit snapped and got stuck in the inside of the bolt, then I just said F' it and threw it together for time sake. My brother had just enough juice left in the torch to do the drivers side, which every bolt came out perfectly and within 20 minutes. Wouldn't you know 3 days later after I finished the header job he bought a brand new wire feed Norstar Welder that would have been perfect to extract the bolt

 

I do have a cutting torch and a wire welder so I hope I can get them out. As far as using the welder are you talking about welding a nut to the broken stud and turning out, or is there a different approach?

Another trick I have used is heating stud up cherry red then putting an ice cube on it, it works very good.

 

Yep that's the trick, welding the nut to the stud. Most of the studs came out like butter with no effort once heated to cherry red even without doing the ice cube trick. I wanted to do the ice cube trick myself, but it was an acre and a half run to the house from the backyard tool shed. Some once heated actually came out with my fingers on the extension & socket! Out of all the studs/bolts only 4 of them were tough & worrisome, most come out without incident and a vice grips after heating.