P0300 Code Please Help!
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P0300 Code Please Help!
Good day,
Sorry to bother, but it seems that this forum has the Best techs when it comes to the Hemi motor. So any help would be appreciated...
Bought a 2006 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with a noisy tappet, So, I replaced all of the tappets, push rods and had a shop clean/check the heads and install new valve seals. I put the motor back together (new oil/filter, added coolant) and now I have a P0300 code...It runs ok at first then progressively starts idle a little rough and die after a min to so. Any help would great.
Best regards,
Rick
Sorry to bother, but it seems that this forum has the Best techs when it comes to the Hemi motor. So any help would be appreciated...
Bought a 2006 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with a noisy tappet, So, I replaced all of the tappets, push rods and had a shop clean/check the heads and install new valve seals. I put the motor back together (new oil/filter, added coolant) and now I have a P0300 code...It runs ok at first then progressively starts idle a little rough and die after a min to so. Any help would great.
Best regards,
Rick
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: ct.
The P0300 code means that a cylinder(s) is misfiring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks, intake gaskets are common caused of multi-cylinder misfiring. If no leak are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs. If the problem persist more tests needs to be done to diagnose problem
Captain
Joined: Jul 2012
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Could be a faulty coil, mismatched plug wires (wires going to wrong cylinder), intake leak, faulty or dirty injector. Also go back and make sure all of your harness connectors are in the correct spot and connected tight, recheck plug wire locations, check coil on plug boots to make sure the little springs did not pop out.
Speaking of intake, did you permatex the intake? if not I would have...these rubber intake gaskets aren't the most pliable when it comes to cold weather & cold starts in general at any time of the year, just ask any Hemi Durango owner whos had a rod throw after a car wash or rain storm on a cold start. For the intake manifold its really a 3 step torquing process (like aluminum cylinder heads), you DO NOT want to torque it down all in one go because you can crack the intake and mis-align it causing leaks, high idle RPM and if on one cylinder even a random misfire.
Its also the reason most of our water pumps seep but will dry up before diagnosing! My parents Hemi Durango was losing coolant at a rapid rate with no signs of leaking, finally one day it showed a small drip by the front of the block which I figured was the water pump weep hole but upon removal you could see in the gasket where it had been leaking like crazy with no obvious signs outside the block.
Here's the codes full description:
- Faulty spark plug (s)
- Faulty ignition coil (s)
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
- Intake air leak
- Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinders compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
Read more: http://www.engine-codes.com/p0300_do...#ixzz4D69dQVlZ
Speaking of intake, did you permatex the intake? if not I would have...these rubber intake gaskets aren't the most pliable when it comes to cold weather & cold starts in general at any time of the year, just ask any Hemi Durango owner whos had a rod throw after a car wash or rain storm on a cold start. For the intake manifold its really a 3 step torquing process (like aluminum cylinder heads), you DO NOT want to torque it down all in one go because you can crack the intake and mis-align it causing leaks, high idle RPM and if on one cylinder even a random misfire.
Its also the reason most of our water pumps seep but will dry up before diagnosing! My parents Hemi Durango was losing coolant at a rapid rate with no signs of leaking, finally one day it showed a small drip by the front of the block which I figured was the water pump weep hole but upon removal you could see in the gasket where it had been leaking like crazy with no obvious signs outside the block.
Here's the codes full description:
- Faulty spark plug (s)
- Faulty ignition coil (s)
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
- Intake air leak
- Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinders compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
Read more: http://www.engine-codes.com/p0300_do...#ixzz4D69dQVlZ
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Problem solved...
Checked compression and the number one cylinder was at zero all the rest were at 150 ish. So i removed the valve cover and rotated the engine and the number intake valve and push rod weren't moving at all. It seems as though the push rod wasn't fully seated in the tappet/lifter. So i reinstalled the push rod, tightened everything (and used the special push rod retainer tool). I rotated the engine and everything moved perfectly. I checked compression and it was 150 just like the rest!!! I put it back together and its PERFECT!!!
Thanks to all who replied!!!
Checked compression and the number one cylinder was at zero all the rest were at 150 ish. So i removed the valve cover and rotated the engine and the number intake valve and push rod weren't moving at all. It seems as though the push rod wasn't fully seated in the tappet/lifter. So i reinstalled the push rod, tightened everything (and used the special push rod retainer tool). I rotated the engine and everything moved perfectly. I checked compression and it was 150 just like the rest!!! I put it back together and its PERFECT!!!
Thanks to all who replied!!!