02 RAM 1500 Regular Cab 4x4 Dreaded IPM issue... strange question
Okay, so I have an issue with my headlights/signal lights, and I'm 100% certain it's due to corrosion in the IPM. I've swapped out the FCM and it still does it.
Now, I have another IPM box from another 3rd gen truck, and all the fuses and relays are the same. The issue is two of the smaller connectors on the bottom don't fit. The large harness connectors do, but the two small ones that are oval shaped on mine, are square and rectangular on the new one. Is there any diagrams that would show what the wires are so that I can swap out the connectors on the truck?
EDIT: Just found out from the owner his was a 2004 and mines a 2002.
Connectors C3 and C4. One has 5 wires attached on mine, and 5 on the other IPM connector. One has 11 wires on mine, and 10 on the other IPM connector.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Now, I have another IPM box from another 3rd gen truck, and all the fuses and relays are the same. The issue is two of the smaller connectors on the bottom don't fit. The large harness connectors do, but the two small ones that are oval shaped on mine, are square and rectangular on the new one. Is there any diagrams that would show what the wires are so that I can swap out the connectors on the truck?
EDIT: Just found out from the owner his was a 2004 and mines a 2002.
Connectors C3 and C4. One has 5 wires attached on mine, and 5 on the other IPM connector. One has 11 wires on mine, and 10 on the other IPM connector.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Last edited by Shane Jeanveau; Apr 26, 2017 at 07:08 PM. Reason: New Info
You should of gotten the same part # for your truck and there would be no problem. There is a tag on the side of the fuse box that you can see when you open the hood. Get the same # and you should be good to go.
There was a change in trucks in 2002 so yours could of been early 2002 production built with 2nd generation fuse box.
Tomorrow I will be changing mine out also.
If you google repair dodge ram fuse box there is a youtube that shows how to take yours apart and check out the pc board inside for corrosion.
Also you will need to replace the FCM with the exact same part # because it has been programed with your 2002 year accessories on your truck.
good luck
There was a change in trucks in 2002 so yours could of been early 2002 production built with 2nd generation fuse box.
Tomorrow I will be changing mine out also.
If you google repair dodge ram fuse box there is a youtube that shows how to take yours apart and check out the pc board inside for corrosion.
Also you will need to replace the FCM with the exact same part # because it has been programed with your 2002 year accessories on your truck.
good luck
Hi dss56. Thanks for the info.
That's what I was afraid of. I was told it was a 2002 RAM, and checking the part number would have been the smarter move. I got too greedy wanting to keep the FCM on it, in case I needed it. I think what I'm going to have to do is take it apart and find out where the corrosion is getting bad and see if I can solder a new connection with some decent guaged wire for now.
Thanks for the info on the FCM part number. I had purchased one before the fuse box that had the same number, and had not changed any of the problems, which weren't present in the donor truck.
From the top view, and the list of fuses on the inside cover, the layout is exactly the same from the front/top view of the TIPM. Every slot identical except Fuse 1 is a 30 amp instead of 40, but covers the same circuit. Would the service manual have the wiring information for each wire on the terminals on the underside of the TIPM?
That's what I was afraid of. I was told it was a 2002 RAM, and checking the part number would have been the smarter move. I got too greedy wanting to keep the FCM on it, in case I needed it. I think what I'm going to have to do is take it apart and find out where the corrosion is getting bad and see if I can solder a new connection with some decent guaged wire for now.
Thanks for the info on the FCM part number. I had purchased one before the fuse box that had the same number, and had not changed any of the problems, which weren't present in the donor truck.
From the top view, and the list of fuses on the inside cover, the layout is exactly the same from the front/top view of the TIPM. Every slot identical except Fuse 1 is a 30 amp instead of 40, but covers the same circuit. Would the service manual have the wiring information for each wire on the terminals on the underside of the TIPM?
If you have the correct service manual, I have about 3-4 SM and all have different part# and wiring for the rams. I had a hard time finding my correct wiring.
I got a PCM and FCM for my 2004 ram and will try tomorrow morning to see if I can fix my problems.
My overhead temperature is not working, changed sensor and still stuck on -40 degrees.
Also I have the dreaded fuse 51 current draw that points to a bad dash cluster, or radio. So tomorrow I will remove the power to my radio and see if the draw goes away. Then if not the radio I will remove my cluster and see if that is the cause. Everything in my cluster works great so I dont know if replacing the pcm and fcm will help.
Right no I have a relay circuit for the fuse 51 that is out of circuit when truck is off and in circuit when truck is started.
If I leave fuse 51 in it kills my battery in 2-3 days.
There are many ram owners out there with problems with the fcm and pcm.
So hope tomorrow I will get it fixed.
If it points to my dash cluster I will add the relay circuit to the cluster and be done with it. Its a 2004 quad 4.7 with 80k miles.
I got the fcm and pcm used correct part # for $75.00 so thats the only reason I'm gonna try to fix for $75.00 if not I'll live with the relay circuit.
On your problem with the lights most get it fixed with the FCM front control module replacement.
But yes remove your PCM and check google and its only 3 areas to clean plastic to remove the cover for the housing pcm. All fuses and relays have to be removed so take a picture of yours before you take all the fuses and relays out. There are 3 relays on the pc board if you have the tow package for the tow lights.
So remove take apart and check for cold solder joints and also broken traces.
good luck
I got a PCM and FCM for my 2004 ram and will try tomorrow morning to see if I can fix my problems.
My overhead temperature is not working, changed sensor and still stuck on -40 degrees.
Also I have the dreaded fuse 51 current draw that points to a bad dash cluster, or radio. So tomorrow I will remove the power to my radio and see if the draw goes away. Then if not the radio I will remove my cluster and see if that is the cause. Everything in my cluster works great so I dont know if replacing the pcm and fcm will help.
Right no I have a relay circuit for the fuse 51 that is out of circuit when truck is off and in circuit when truck is started.
If I leave fuse 51 in it kills my battery in 2-3 days.
There are many ram owners out there with problems with the fcm and pcm.
So hope tomorrow I will get it fixed.
If it points to my dash cluster I will add the relay circuit to the cluster and be done with it. Its a 2004 quad 4.7 with 80k miles.
I got the fcm and pcm used correct part # for $75.00 so thats the only reason I'm gonna try to fix for $75.00 if not I'll live with the relay circuit.
On your problem with the lights most get it fixed with the FCM front control module replacement.
But yes remove your PCM and check google and its only 3 areas to clean plastic to remove the cover for the housing pcm. All fuses and relays have to be removed so take a picture of yours before you take all the fuses and relays out. There are 3 relays on the pc board if you have the tow package for the tow lights.
So remove take apart and check for cold solder joints and also broken traces.
good luck
Oh darn, eh? Yeah, I've done some research and the FCM/PCM seem to be a really terrible change to the Rams.
Thanks for the info. Taking out all the fuses and relays sounds like it makes sense now that I hear it. And, I believe I have the tailgate tow harness.
And good luck with your truck too. $75.00 is a pretty decent price for the parts. I had a hard time finding mine for under $100 locally, and that's just for the fuse box. Worth the investment at that price.
Thanks for the info. Taking out all the fuses and relays sounds like it makes sense now that I hear it. And, I believe I have the tailgate tow harness.
And good luck with your truck too. $75.00 is a pretty decent price for the parts. I had a hard time finding mine for under $100 locally, and that's just for the fuse box. Worth the investment at that price.
Last edited by Shane Jeanveau; Apr 26, 2017 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Removing curse word.
Any luck with the current draw? I have the same thing going on, as well as the horn going off constantly. As for the lighting issue. .... i had same issue. If you take the fcm off and shim the screws with 4 small washers it changes the contract spots and all your lights will work. Im still fighting the 1.08amp current draw. Battery dies in 2 days. Remove fuse 51 and draw goes away.



