11.5 Rear Differential Noise/Rebuild
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
11.5 Rear Differential Noise/Rebuild
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 4wd Mega Cab 5.9 Cummins, 4 speed auto. Differential is identified on build sheet as : 11.50 Rear Axle, Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle, 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio.
Responding to rear end noise (probably partially due to tire noise, end of life), dealership pulled drain plug and found a couple of small metal fragments. Dealer recommended $$ rebuild. Pulling cover at home, in addition to the couple of unidentified metal fragments on the drain plug the oil had a fine metallic sparkle. Gears appeared normal based on visual (had pulled axles). Planning on replacing all bearings. What other parts, if any, should be replaced (assuming all gears still look good)? Do you have any information on this differential and removal/rebuild/replacement procedure? There appears to be welded lock wires/retainers. My son has done some other differential work but first time on this one/type and he will be performing the work DIY at home (no "special" tools available).Questions on bearing quality. I believe Timken bearings are considered superior to others and therefore would be preferred, is this correct?Also, I have been doing some comparison shopping on RockAuto (www.rockauto.com) and Randy's Worldwide Automotive (www.ringpinion.com). Any opinions on parts/quality/support/prices from either. Have some experience with Randy's. RockAuto seems quite a bit lower pricewise but may be lacking in the support side.Thanks for the help. (posted on multiple forums)
Responding to rear end noise (probably partially due to tire noise, end of life), dealership pulled drain plug and found a couple of small metal fragments. Dealer recommended $$ rebuild. Pulling cover at home, in addition to the couple of unidentified metal fragments on the drain plug the oil had a fine metallic sparkle. Gears appeared normal based on visual (had pulled axles). Planning on replacing all bearings. What other parts, if any, should be replaced (assuming all gears still look good)? Do you have any information on this differential and removal/rebuild/replacement procedure? There appears to be welded lock wires/retainers. My son has done some other differential work but first time on this one/type and he will be performing the work DIY at home (no "special" tools available).Questions on bearing quality. I believe Timken bearings are considered superior to others and therefore would be preferred, is this correct?Also, I have been doing some comparison shopping on RockAuto (www.rockauto.com) and Randy's Worldwide Automotive (www.ringpinion.com). Any opinions on parts/quality/support/prices from either. Have some experience with Randy's. RockAuto seems quite a bit lower pricewise but may be lacking in the support side.Thanks for the help. (posted on multiple forums)
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,465
Likes: 4,220
From: Clayton MI
Randy's is a good place, with a good reputation.
If you are going to do the rear end, I would be tempted to get a Master Install Kit. (used when replacing/changing gears) Should have all the bearings/shims/etc that you need. "Complete" kits will have bearings/seals for the outer hubs as well.
On the second gen trucks, there are clips in the rear diff that hold the clutches and such in place. They like to break..... and wind up in places they really shouldn't be.... I don't know if your rear uses the same style LSD, but, that would be something to look at as well. If it is indeed a clutch-type diff, probably wouldn't hurt to rebuild that as well. After all, you are going to have it out anyway......
If you are going to do the rear end, I would be tempted to get a Master Install Kit. (used when replacing/changing gears) Should have all the bearings/shims/etc that you need. "Complete" kits will have bearings/seals for the outer hubs as well.
On the second gen trucks, there are clips in the rear diff that hold the clutches and such in place. They like to break..... and wind up in places they really shouldn't be.... I don't know if your rear uses the same style LSD, but, that would be something to look at as well. If it is indeed a clutch-type diff, probably wouldn't hurt to rebuild that as well. After all, you are going to have it out anyway......
