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Transmission pan drainbolt and DIY Transmission flush questions

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Old 12-06-2018, 12:41 PM
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Default Transmission pan drainbolt and DIY Transmission flush questions

2008 1500 4x4 with 5.7L Hemi 545RFE Transmission. 93,000 miles.

What do you guys think about getting either a new pan with a drain bolt or just buying a drain bolt and installing into the existing pan? No downside I can see except I've heard the drain bolts often leak. I've read guys saying use some rtv to seal, but I'm not not clear on if they meant inside the pan where the "bolt holder" seats or outside somewhere? Could the drain bolt "holder" just be welded to the pan on the inside (or outside) to stop leaking?

I do not drive my truck hard so I am thinking that perhaps I can alternate transmission service. This time around I'll drop the pan, change filters, do a full flush. The next 30,000 mile service, maybe just a drain and refill or DIY flush without dropping the pan and changing filters. Any thoughts?

As far as doing a DIY flush along with the pan drop and filter change, I referred to this thread, which is closed, so I can't post my question there.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen...ion-flush.html

He says in the thread: "First off, there is a T-stat located in the return line from the cooler so you either have to do this at operating temperature so the tstat allows flow, or pull off the supply line at the cooler if you want to do it when cold.

That thread is for a gen 4 and mine is a gen 3, so maybe the setup is different, but I don't see anywhere that the supply or return line could be pulled off at the cooler or anywhere between the cooler and the tranny. There aren't any spots where the metal line feeds into a rubber hose that just has the squeeze clamps or band clamps that I can see. I did a flush like this on a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and was able to easily locate a spot where the metal return line fed into a rubber hose with a squeeze clamp, but the truck seems to be set up differently.

So, if I have to disconnect the line at the tranny, the thread had the below picture with these instructions:
2) Unhook the return line of the transmission if hot, or the supply line to the cooler. This is the one at the bottom of the trans closest to the pan. I've included a pic below to show you.
3) Once the return line is disconnected, you'll want to place a rubber hose(probably 3/8" inside diameter over the flare fitting. You'll put the other end of the rubber hose into a bucket.
4) Start the truck up and let it idle until the fluid starts to spit/sputter for a few seconds. Then turn the truck off. Now, your trans pan is almost empty and the only remaining fluid left is what couldn't be sucked up through your filter.


So, if I am reading and understanding this right, if I unhook #2 in the picture, that is "output of fluid" so I would attach my hose directly to the nub or flare on the tranny. If I unhook #4, that is fluid "coming back in" so I'd attach the hose to the line coming into that location? And if it's cold, and I use #4, maybe no fluid comes out? Does the Gen 3 also have the thermostat on the return line? Has anyone done this on a gen 3 that can help with how they have done it? Thanks in advance. Many questions, I know, and thanks in advance to anyone who can help.





 

Last edited by JSMCO; 12-06-2018 at 12:56 PM.
  #2  
Old 12-07-2018, 07:22 AM
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Full flushes are BAD DO NOT DO THEM! As for the drain bolt what I did was bought a oil pan drain bolt for my truck. Found the nut that for it dried a hole in the transmission pan welded the nut it. You need it to seal under the bolt head, and you can use RTV but would have to add it everyone you drained it, that is why I opted for the oil drain plug as it has a seal underneath the head. It is nothing more then a rubber washer
 



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