I'm getting p0113, p0522, p0627, p0685, p0688, p2112 codes and I'm wondering how these codes can be fixed by myself or the cheapest way please my job depends on me working out of my truck.

 

Welcome to the forum,
What year is the truck and is it a 1500 or 2500/3500?

 

Ty, my dodge is a 2005 ,1500.

 

That is alot of codes, been ignoring the engine light for a while? Best way to start is do a web search on each code and start working them. I'll show you one, you do the rest and reply back with more detailed questions once you've started to think through your issues.

p0522 implies the PCM says you have low oil pressure. The PCM gets it data from an oil pressure sensor. So that could simply be the oil pressure sensor - or you have a serious problem with your engine. Cheap to swap the sensor - like $10 shipped, I'd start there... unless the engine is making bad noises.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+/+switch,4588

 

First thing I would do is a good tuneup , change the oil an filter maybe even flush with additive , replace air filter and replace plugs an wires maybe even coil packs , clean throttle body an maybe replace throttle body sensor , , after a really good tune up then see what codes remain

Look here for good info

https://www.obd-codes.com

P0113 possible causes Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor,,Dirty air filter,,Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted ,,Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection

P0522 code include: Faulty wiring or connection/connector in the oil pressure sender circuit Faulty oil pressure sender/sensor Open or short in circuit wiring Low oil level, wrong oil, oil passage blockage

P0627 Causes for this code may include: Issues with the fuel pump itself Severed or damaged ground wire in the device's control module Unattached ground strap in the control module Open, shorted, or corroded wiring in the CAN bus A faulty CAN bus Unsecured harnesses and wires causing a chafe or broken circuit High resistance in circuit (e.g. melted/corroded connectors, internal wire corrosion)

What are some of the symptoms of the code? Symptoms of a P0688 trouble code may include: Delayed or no start Electrical accessories may be inoperative Engine drivability issues What are some of the common causes of the code? Causes for this code may include: Defective PCM power relay Blown fuse or fusible link Open or shorted circuit between the power relay and the PCM What are some P0688 troubleshooting steps? A diagnostic scanner and a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) will be required to diagnose a code P0688. A source of reliable vehicle information will also be necessary. From it you will glean diagnostic flow charts, wiring diagrams, connector face views, connector pin-out charts, and component locators. You will also find component and circuit testing procedures and specifications. All this information will be needed to successfully diagnose a code P0688. Connect the scanner to the vehicle diagnostic port and retrieve all stored codes and freeze frame data. Make a note of this information as it may prove useful if the code proves to be an intermittent one. After recording all pertinent information, clear the codes and test drive the vehicle (if possible) until the code is reset or the PCM enters readiness mode. If the PCM enters readiness mode, the code is intermittent and will be even more difficult to diagnose. The condition, which caused the P0688 to be stored, may need to worsen before an accurate diagnosis can be reached. On the other hand, if the code fails to reset and there are no drivability symptoms exhibited, the vehicle can be operated normally. Consult your vehicle information source for technical service bulletins (TSB) that replicate the code stored, vehicle (year, make, model, and engine), and symptoms exhibited. If you find the appropriate TSB, it may yield helpful diagnostic information. If the P0688 code is immediately reset, proceed with a visual inspection of system related wiring and connectors. Harnesses that have been broken of unplugged should be repaired or replaced as required. If wiring and connectors appear functional, use your source of vehicle information to obtain the appropriate wiring diagrams, connector face views, connector pin-out charts, and diagnostic flow charts. Once you have the relevant information, test all system fuses and relays to make sure the PCM power supply relay is being supplied with battery voltage. If constant (or switched) voltage is not present at the power relay connector, trace the appropriate circuit back to the fuse or relay from which it originates. Repair or replace defective fuses or fusible links as required. If power relay supply input voltage and ground are present (on all appropriate terminals), use your DVOM to test relay output performance at the appropriate connector pins. If power supply relay output circuit voltage is not adequate, suspect that the relay is defective. If PCM power supply relay output voltage is within specifications (on all terminals), test the corresponding relay output circuits at the PCM. If a relay output voltage signal is discovered at the PCM connector, suspect a defective PCM or a PCM programming error. If there is no relay output voltage signal discovered at the PCM connector, you have an open circuit. Fuses and fusible links should be tested with the circuit loaded to avoid a misdiagnosis

Since the code P0685 is usually accompanied by a no-start condition, ignoring it will not likely be an option. If this code is present and the engine will start and run, suspect a faulty PCM or a PCM programing error. Causes Potential causes for this code to set are: A defective PCM power relay A blown fuse or fusible link Corroded or damaged wiring or wiring connectors (especially near the PCM relay) Faulty ignition switch Partially or totally disconnected electrical terminal at the ignition switch Loose or corroded battery cable ends Diagnostic and Repair Procedures A good starting point is always to check for technical service bulletins (TSB) for your particular vehicle. Your issue may be a known issue with a known fix put out by the manufacturer and can save you time and money during diagnosis. As with most other codes of this nature, begin your diagnosis with a visual inspection of system wiring harnesses, connectors, and components. Pay special attention to unsecured relays that may have slipped out of their respective terminals or may have corroded blades or terminals. This is especially prominent when the relay or convenience center is located near the battery or coolant reservoir. Check the battery and battery cable ends for tightness and excessive corrosion. Repair or replace defects as required. You will need a scanner (or code reader), a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), and a wiring diagram. Wiring diagrams can be obtained through the manufacturer (service manual or equivalent) or through a secondary source like All Data. Before purchasing a service manual, make sure that a wiring diagram for the PCM power supply circuit is located therein. Before continuing my diagnosis, I like to retrieve all stored trouble codes (using the scanner or code reader) and write them down for future reference, if needed. I also like to make a note of any pertinent freeze frame data. This information can be very helpful if the malfunction in question should prove to be intermittent. Beginning at the power relay (for the PCM), make sure that there is battery voltage to the primary input terminal. Consult the wiring diagram, connector view, or pin-out chart from the service manual (or equivalent) for the location of each individual terminal. If there is no voltage, suspect a fault connection at a fuse or fusible link. Next, test the secondary input terminal. If no voltage is present, suspect a blown fuse or faulty ignition switch (the electrical portion). Now, check the ground signal. If there is no ground signal, check system ground locations, harness bulkhead connectors, chassis grounds, and battery cable ends. If all these circuits are normal, test for output voltage on the circuits that supply the PCM with voltage. If these circuits have no voltage, suspect a faulty relay. If voltage output signals are present, test for system voltage at the PCM connector. If no voltage is present, begin testing system wiring. Be sure to disconnect system controllers from the harness before testing resistance with the DVOM. Repair or replace open or shorted circuits as required. If there is voltage at the PCM, suspect that it is defective or experiencing a programming error. References to the "ignition switch" in this instance refer to the electrical portion only Swapping identical (matching numbers) relays for testing can be very helpful Always return relays to their original position, replacing the defective relay with a new relay When testing system fuses, make sure that the circuit is at maximum voltage

Common Causes Of A P2112 Code Possible causes of this code may include: Faulty throttle body Dirty throttle plate or linkage Faulty throttle position sensor Defective accelerator pedal position sensor Throttle actuator control motor is defective Corroded or damaged connector Faulty or damaged wiring Faulty PCM Common Repairs Replacing throttle body Cleaning throttle plate and linkage Replacing throttle position sensor Replacing throttle actuator control motor Replacing accelerator pedal position sensor Cleaning corrosion from connectors Repairing or replacing wiring Flashing or replacing PCM

 

I used starter fluid to test my fuel pump, changed my fuel pump successfully but when I tried to start it( heres the proof on just how dumb I can be) I put the fuel pump relay fuse on the wrong spot then thinking I screwed up on the fuel pump I used starter fluid just to see if it would start and if so for how long but I guess I used to much I counted 3 miss. When I went to start it I heard a pop, checked my air filter and it was still fine, I'm hoping you dont judge me for using starter fluid but if you cant get it to start I at least wanted to know I didn't mess it up worse than it was and wound up with this on my resume. Any advice and I really appreciate it even just you guys reading my post.

 

So does this truck run with the fuel pump swap (and relay in the right spot)? Not knowing any history here, Terry's advice to go through a tune up is probably a good thing to do. Did all the codes come at once? How was it running when it ran last? How many miles on it?