I have a 07 Hemi Quad-cab, and I always felt like the brakes were on the stiff side, which you must use more force than necessary to stop the truck at harder stops, especially while towing (even with trailer brakes). After swapping in a new vacuum booster and master cylinder, the results were the same. My best guess is that the high elevation here in NM causes a weaker vacuum for the braking assist. What I have found out is that the hydro-boosted 2500/3500's with the Cummins is pretty much a direct swap conversion. The power steering supplies the hydro-boost with hydraulic power to assist with the brakes.


I got a Hydoboost and master cylinder from a local junkyard for $100 for both from a 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins. I ordered new hydraulic hoses from Rockauto for a good price, there are hard lines on top of the hydro booster, I got mine from eBay. You'll need the one from the pump to the hydro-booster and one from the hydro-booster to the steering gear. One last hose for the return to the tank, which you will need to tee into the original line, I just got 3ft 3/8 power steering return hose from the cut your own hoses from Autozone. Here is a hose diagram I found.





The mounting holes on the firewall are the same as well as the pedal pin.



The master cylinder needs to be swapped out as the hydro-boost version mounts up differently. The 1500's have several different line flare nut sizes, I saw on another post someone was able to use their original lines on the new MC. But for me, my lines were standard sizes, and the new MC uses metric bubble lares. I bought some metric flare nuts from Napa and drilled them out a little for the 1/4in lines and bubble flared them. I also had to flip the positions of the lines on the MC, as the larger nut flare is usually the front brakes.








The new hydraulic hoses were attached and were very easy with two exceptions. On the bottom of the power steering pump, there is a brass valve with a long body, I had to cut about 1/2in off. there were no threads in this section, as this blocks the flare nut from setting all the way down.






The next issue is the return hose has to tee into the factory line. So I found a brass tee and two 1/2in barbed fittings and one 3/8 fitting for the new hose.







As for the results, I feel like it is much stronger. I feel like it does give me full strength braking power without me having to leg press my weight onto the pedal. It is worth the conversion.

 

People been doing these for years, there used to be write up on here somewhere (I think it was Weedahoe)

 

Good job crazy. Thanks for the write up

 

Yes, Weedahoe had a write up as well as a few other people, I just wanted to throw my information out there as there were a few details left out of those posts.
https://www.dodge talk.com/threads/this-is-how-you-get-better-brakes.329682/
https://www.ram forum.com/threads/how-to-4th-gen-hydrobooster.71025/