5.7 Hemi, 06' car engine into 04' Ram
Alright guys, I've got a 2004 Ram 2500 that has a severe rod knock. I picked up a 2006 engine out of a car (I believe it was charger) for dirt cheap. My plan is to use the bottom end from the car engine and swap my top end on to it. I'm looking to see if there's any info you guys have for me about non interworking components or differences between the two engines that I need to be aware of. I've done some research and it looks like MDS may be an issue, but I can solve that with a block off kit.
Anything else that I should be aware of?
All knowledge is good.
Anything else that I should be aware of?
All knowledge is good.
I haven't seen this done before so I can't provide any experience on your project. I recommend you contact the manufacturer of the parts you are exchanging and see if they can give you insight. I think Melling and Mahle makes internal parts for both engines.
Do you know the condition of the donor hemi?
Can you tell us why you want to do all of this work for a spun bearing? Do you plan on replacing crank bearings? Seems easier to just replace the bearings if you're going to be in there anyway. You may need to grind the crank journals, but there are kits for that. I think you know this already, just asking to see if there is additional info that may help us understand more about your engines.
Do you know the condition of the donor hemi?
Can you tell us why you want to do all of this work for a spun bearing? Do you plan on replacing crank bearings? Seems easier to just replace the bearings if you're going to be in there anyway. You may need to grind the crank journals, but there are kits for that. I think you know this already, just asking to see if there is additional info that may help us understand more about your engines.
Last edited by jrsick; Feb 20, 2021 at 06:26 AM.
I haven't seen this done before so I can't provide any experience on your project. I recommend you contact the manufacturer of the parts you are exchanging and see if they can give you insight. I think Melling and Mahle makes internal parts for both engines.
Do you know the condition of the donor hemi?
Can you tell us why you want to do all of this work for a spun bearing? Do you plan on replacing crank bearings? Seems easier to just replace the bearings if you're going to be in there anyway. You may need to grind the crank journals, but there are kits for that. I think you know this already, just asking to see if there is additional info that may help us understand more about your engines.
Do you know the condition of the donor hemi?
Can you tell us why you want to do all of this work for a spun bearing? Do you plan on replacing crank bearings? Seems easier to just replace the bearings if you're going to be in there anyway. You may need to grind the crank journals, but there are kits for that. I think you know this already, just asking to see if there is additional info that may help us understand more about your engines.
Last edited by Oxman; Feb 20, 2021 at 11:06 AM.
If you're gonna strip it down to he short block then you'll be fine, just make sure you swap cam AND lifters to non-MDS stuff. Then you can pull the solenoids and use the block plugs. Technically you only need to pull the lifters on 1, 4, 6 & 7 but it's a good idea to replace them all with a different cam. You'll need to reuse everything else from your engine except cylinder heads; use the set in the best shape (both have EGR). Also includes your front timing cover and intake manifold as well as dipstick (car version id on the wrong side). Will also most likely need to swap over the sensors; there WILL be harness differences (CAN bus vs PCI bus). Will need to swap flex plates, make sure there isn't a pilot bearing in the back of the crank. NAG1 & 545RFE are very different transmissions and the way they interface with the same engine is different. Take a good long hard look at your oil pan. Probably worth it to spring for a new one as they tend to rot under there being stamped steel vs cast aluminum like the cars (no you can't use the car pan). If this were my project I'd cam it, but if going for stock I'd get a newer/better oil pump and a factory 6.1 timing set w/tensioner. Head bolts are TTY so you'll need to replace those as well as the crank and cam bolts.
If you're gonna strip it down to he short block then you'll be fine, just make sure you swap cam AND lifters to non-MDS stuff. Then you can pull the solenoids and use the block plugs. Technically you only need to pull the lifters on 1, 4, 6 & 7 but it's a good idea to replace them all with a different cam. You'll need to reuse everything else from your engine except cylinder heads; use the set in the best shape (both have EGR). Also includes your front timing cover and intake manifold as well as dipstick (car version id on the wrong side). Will also most likely need to swap over the sensors; there WILL be harness differences (CAN bus vs PCI bus). Will need to swap flex plates, make sure there isn't a pilot bearing in the back of the crank. NAG1 & 545RFE are very different transmissions and the way they interface with the same engine is different. Take a good long hard look at your oil pan. Probably worth it to spring for a new one as they tend to rot under there being stamped steel vs cast aluminum like the cars (no you can't use the car pan). If this were my project I'd cam it, but if going for stock I'd get a newer/better oil pump and a factory 6.1 timing set w/tensioner. Head bolts are TTY so you'll need to replace those as well as the crank and cam bolts.
Also, I had someone tell me that the car/truck engine mounts are different and there's a motor mount boss in the car blocks that isn't drilled or tapped that needs to be for the truck style engine mounts... Know anything about that? I haven't been able to find any info on it.
Magnoom, thank you so much for the information! That's exactly what I've been looking for. The only thing I have a question about is the 6.1 timing chain... How does that differ?
Also, I had someone tell me that the car/truck engine mounts are different and there's a motor mount boss in the car blocks that isn't drilled or tapped that needs to be for the truck style engine mounts... Know anything about that? I haven't been able to find any info on it.
Also, I had someone tell me that the car/truck engine mounts are different and there's a motor mount boss in the car blocks that isn't drilled or tapped that needs to be for the truck style engine mounts... Know anything about that? I haven't been able to find any info on it.
From what I've seen people post about the mounts it's hit or miss; some people have run into that problem and more have not. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to it.







