Battery Draw
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Battery Draw
Ok I have battery draw coming from the instrument cluster (1.1amp connected .6amps when not connected so I know I have a short somewhere else as well). I replaced all the bulbs but 3 of them still wont light. The other issue is the seat belt light will not go out. I tried to jumper the seat belt but the light stays on (jumper to figure out if its the seat belt switch or something else). I can hear the seat belt solenoid click when I jumper it so I know its working at that point. The thing is I can not find the correct wiring diagram to follow for this. Could the issue be in the solenoid? This is my sons truck that my mother bought him so I want to get this truck so he doesnt need to use a jump pack everyday to start it (even at .6 amps it still drains enough to not start I only know because we pulled the fuse for the instrument cluster and the brand new battery was dead the next morning). I did disconnect the horn in the steering column as that was also causing high amp draw (was over 2 amps when I first started trying to figure out the amp draw but that dropped to 1.1amps after I unplugged that). I have no other issues with the DIC other than the seat belt light does not go away (and the 3 bulbs not lighting in specific spots) even when I jumped out the seat belt connector under the seat. Also need to setup a horn button for him as they wont let him use this truck for his road test (he just needs road test so he can get his drivers license) because the horn doesnt work. You have to be kidding me.
This is a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L SLT 2WD with 270k miles on it. We just finished replacing the head gaskets, timing chains, 1 cracked head and a few other odds n ends stuff in the engine which fixed all the check engine stuff. Yes I realize the value of this truck outweighs the cost we put into it but this child is mechanically inclined and I wanted him to learn how to do the work on his own which he did alot of this on his own (with my supervision and Haynes). The only thing mechanically we didnt get working is the heater core. I thought with a cracked head and blown head gaskets that may be why he had no heat. But now it just blows warm air not hot. If you accidentally put the hoses on the heater core incorrectly could that cause warm heat instead of hot?
This is a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L SLT 2WD with 270k miles on it. We just finished replacing the head gaskets, timing chains, 1 cracked head and a few other odds n ends stuff in the engine which fixed all the check engine stuff. Yes I realize the value of this truck outweighs the cost we put into it but this child is mechanically inclined and I wanted him to learn how to do the work on his own which he did alot of this on his own (with my supervision and Haynes). The only thing mechanically we didnt get working is the heater core. I thought with a cracked head and blown head gaskets that may be why he had no heat. But now it just blows warm air not hot. If you accidentally put the hoses on the heater core incorrectly could that cause warm heat instead of hot?
Last edited by Motoro; Apr 12, 2021 at 11:53 AM.
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From: Clayton MI
Might wanna try and find a factory service manual for that truck. You can generally find them on EBay, or Amazon for 20-30 bucks. Accurate wiring diagrams are a MUST for troubleshooting the interesting electrical problems....
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Ok I have battery draw coming from the instrument cluster (1.1amp connected .6amps when not connected so I know I have a short somewhere else as well). I replaced all the bulbs but 3 of them still wont light. The other issue is the seat belt light will not go out. I tried to jumper the seat belt but the light stays on (jumper to figure out if its the seat belt switch or something else). I can hear the seat belt solenoid click when I jumper it so I know its working at that point. The thing is I can not find the correct wiring diagram to follow for this. Could the issue be in the solenoid? This is my sons truck that my mother bought him so I want to get this truck so he doesnt need to use a jump pack everyday to start it (even at .6 amps it still drains enough to not start I only know because we pulled the fuse for the instrument cluster and the brand new battery was dead the next morning). I did disconnect the horn in the steering column as that was also causing high amp draw (was over 2 amps when I first started trying to figure out the amp draw but that dropped to 1.1amps after I unplugged that). I have no other issues with the DIC other than the seat belt light does not go away (and the 3 bulbs not lighting in specific spots) even when I jumped out the seat belt connector under the seat. Also need to setup a horn button for him as they wont let him use this truck for his road test (he just needs road test so he can get his drivers license) because the horn doesnt work. You have to be kidding me.
This is a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L SLT 2WD with 270k miles on it. We just finished replacing the head gaskets, timing chains, 1 cracked head and a few other odds n ends stuff in the engine which fixed all the check engine stuff. Yes I realize the value of this truck outweighs the cost we put into it but this child is mechanically inclined and I wanted him to learn how to do the work on his own which he did alot of this on his own (with my supervision and Haynes). The only thing mechanically we didnt get working is the heater core. I thought with a cracked head and blown head gaskets that may be why he had no heat. But now it just blows warm air not hot. If you accidentally put the hoses on the heater core incorrectly could that cause warm heat instead of hot?
This is a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L SLT 2WD with 270k miles on it. We just finished replacing the head gaskets, timing chains, 1 cracked head and a few other odds n ends stuff in the engine which fixed all the check engine stuff. Yes I realize the value of this truck outweighs the cost we put into it but this child is mechanically inclined and I wanted him to learn how to do the work on his own which he did alot of this on his own (with my supervision and Haynes). The only thing mechanically we didnt get working is the heater core. I thought with a cracked head and blown head gaskets that may be why he had no heat. But now it just blows warm air not hot. If you accidentally put the hoses on the heater core incorrectly could that cause warm heat instead of hot?
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I have the Haynes manual. It has "some" electrical diagrams but not this one. I am more interested in the light and getting a horn setup so he can use this on his road test.
Factory Manual is where its at.