On the crossmember you do have to unbolt it slide it over to one side and cut a little bit off to get it out, but it bolts right back in. Yes you also have to loosen the cab mounts and raise it up a little bit.

 

You don’t have to cut crossmember, get the head off there’s enough clearance at least on the 3500s

 

I wouldn't go through the hassel of taking off and installing the head in the truck If I was pulling the engine anyway.

 

Ah, Well the misunderstanding was in my terminology, I didn't actually cut the member, I cut a flap on each side and opened it up and removed the member then reinstalled it and ran some self tappers from the flap back into the member to hold it in place with the intentions of welding it someday, but I just needed to get the truck back on the road at that time I expect the motor to come back out and get some rods, head work ect so I can do compounds

 

get head off and sent to machine shop while I get rest of engine out is how I’m doing it, cuz when heads are done they’ll get the crank

 

Appreciate all the input and definitely would be putting the engine in myself if it wasn't the truck that my wife uses to pull her horses all over Nevada. She would filet me alive if it broke down on her so I need a real shop that can put her mind at ease. The shop manager said this is the worst turbo failure he has seen and it did suck bits into the motor.
The detailed quote came down to:
Long Block $6k, plus $600 shipping
oil cooler, $325
Injectors, $3k
turbo, $1800
labor $3k
BD upgraded exhaust manifold, $700
Includes oil changes at 1500 and then 4500.
2 year warranty on labor and block
No towing for first 4500 miles.
Optional, gauge module for exhaust gas temp and tranny temp, $850 (+$400 if I want to add tuner - anyone have experience with the mpg setting improvements?)

 

couple shots I took on one I’m doing…..this is for our office lady’s husband so it’s no rush which is why I’m doing it outside so I don’t hold a bay up in my shop.

only about 3 1/2-4 hours into it and heads off…be careful thing weighs a ton and awkward to get out of your doing it solo.

 

I've never owned or worked on a Cummins powered Dodge. I have owned diesels though. You don't say where you are located but I found out the hard way you MUST use the proper tuner. I had a Federal tuner in a PowerStroke that was originally sold in California. I had it a while and it just started dying. I managed to get it home and changed a sensor that is a known issue with those engines. I finally gave up and asked my neighbor to look at it. He runs a diesel shop out of his garage. He tested all sorts of this and finally said it looked like a loose wire. I towed it to an automotive electrical shop. 3 hours at $150 an hour. 15 seconds to get it running again. A previous owner had put a Federal chip in a California computer. They pulled the chip out and the systems started talking to each other. Before that, the diesel drivers wouldn't work so no fuel injectors working.

 

I wonder if they are quoting the labor as if all of the part replacements will be done separately. But in reality they are taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together. not replacing the block, putting it all back together, then replacing the injectors, putting it all back, then doing the turbo. I'd get more quotes done and look into ordering the parts for yourself or try to find a used one in a junkyard that was wrecked.

 

Figured I’d post to prove my point that the crossmember in front does not need to be removed……took me a total of 6 hours to pull engine, on ground….didn’t want to tie up a bay in my shop cuz now I’m going to remove crank, pistons etc and have them sent out……this 03 Cummins had 356k…broke a piston ring but owner wants full rebuild…..EVERYTHING came apart easy and all the bolts were rusted.