When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
3rd Gen Ram Tech2002-2008 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2002 through 2008 Rams Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
they are surprisingly cheap around $70 aftermarket..
you could remove your old fuel pump and back flush it too.....if you don't want to replace it.
it has a one way valve that wont let the gas go in the opposite direction.
but you can pour fuel inside and shake it..then pour it out. you should be able to tell how dirty it is at least.
then decide if it needs replacing. (for anyone else reading this.)
but bad check valve mean replacing regardless
what you need to worry about is the plastic inlet on your talk. its plastic and breaks off very easy...
gas tanks are not cheap to replace because replacing with a used one is no good....the plastic piece will most
likely break on the used one as well.
"it has a one way valve that wont let the gas go in the opposite direction"... isn't that the check valve? Do you have a pic if that? Just curious to see where it lives. I've seen where someone splices another valve into the rubber gas line, nearest to the tank. Not that I would do that... my pump has lived ten lives. LOL
The check valve is build into the pump, but thats what it looks like.
the line that breaks is the breather line. its usually yellowish/white
you have to remove it while talk is still bolted into the frame so its hard to be gentile with it.
If and when it breaks be ready to insert a tube inside of it and some epoxy to repair it.
if it leaks vapors you will get trouble codes.
all in all its a very easy job replacing the fuel pump.less than an hour..
get some U clips for the fuel lines first too. they are plastic and can break as well.
Thank you! It will probably take me longer than an hour. My truck is a quad cab dakota and the gas tank has to be dropped. You can't just remove the bed, cause half the pump is under the cab, looking down from up top. I'm losing prime when the truck sits overnight. I turn the key to run position for a second or two before cranking and it starts instantly. If don't do that, it cranks for a bit.
hook it up to the fuel rail.. turn the key on and the pressure should go between 50 and 60 psi..
leave it that way for about 10 minutes and see if the pressure drops.. if it does you have an issue..
Correct you have to drop the tank. but all the hoses must be disconnected before dropping.
On your fuel pressure. buy a cheap china fuel pressure gauge.. like this one https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Gaso...s%2C220&sr=8-6
hook it up to the fuel rail.. turn the key on and the pressure should go between 50 and 60 psi..
leave it that way for about 10 minutes and see if the pressure drops.. if it does you have an issue..
I did this in early 2021. Pressure definitely dropped in a short space of time. At the time I thought the pump was dying, but it turned out to be a faulty relay. I rented a gauge from O'Reilly's. Right now, I think my pump's ability to pump is still good, but the plumbing is wearing down. To be expected at 336K mi, so yeah...I just need to go ahead and change the damn pump, but a two second key pause works for now.
Quoting myself from that thread....
Got the test gauge. Pump seems okay, but then again, it's been starting without issue the past few days. Overall, the thing holds steady at 45 PSI or so.
Key turned to ACC (Engine warm, recently driven) = 44 PSI
Start & idling = 45 PSI
Holding @ 3000 RPM = 45 PSI
Holding @ 2000 RPM = 45 PSI
Blipping throttle hard = needle blips to 50 psi for split second and returns to 45 PSI
Sitting....
Key off = 45 PSI
15 min later = 44 PSI
1 hr later = 35 PSI
So my thinking is, the pump passed the tests and the injectors are not bleeding down fast. This was all with motor recently driven. Will try again with cold motor tomorrow. Wish I could get a pressure reading when the damn thing is not starting but it's starting fine now. Thoughts or suggestions?
