Small problem with transmission (545RFE, reverse and 2nd gear)
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 236
Likes: 6
From: Germany
Tried to replace the u-joints but they are rusted into the drive shaft. Tried hammering them out but that didn't work.
Can I use a hydraulic press to get them out? Or will that damage the drive shaft?
Luckily there is no play at all within the joints so no need to replace them at the moment.
Can I use a hydraulic press to get them out? Or will that damage the drive shaft?
Luckily there is no play at all within the joints so no need to replace them at the moment.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,403
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
I use a couple short pieces of 2x4, rest the part of the joint sticking out on those, then hammer on the shaft itself. Couple blows from my 5 pound single-jack usually knocks 'em loose. Make sure you have the snap-rings and such out first though. Some joints use snap rings on the ends of the joint, others have them inside the yoke. If you have a press, that will most certainly work, just be careful how you support the shaft. 
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 236
Likes: 6
From: Germany
Those snap rings were a major pain in the...you know...good luck the new u-joints came with new clips, 3 of 4 broke, one part even got stuck and I had to use a lot of penetrating oil to get it out.
So yeah, I removed them, but was still unable to remove them.
Maybe when I try it next time I will just soak it in penetrating oil over night. Didn't have enough time today.
Thanks for your help there anyway, really helpful and very kind!
So yeah, I removed them, but was still unable to remove them.
Maybe when I try it next time I will just soak it in penetrating oil over night. Didn't have enough time today.
Thanks for your help there anyway, really helpful and very kind!
They tend to 'become one' with the parts they are attached to.
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 236
Likes: 6
From: Germany
Changing fluid and filters is all it may need, but you may have to run it and drain again, since it may be original fluid. It takes roughly 6-7 quarts per drain (Supertech ATF+4 from Walmart is cheapest and just as good as any other.) The higher you lift the front, the more it drains. I drilled the drain pan and put an aftermarket drain plug on mine. Makes things a whole lot easier. When you change the screen filter, make sure you are removing the old O-ring on the neck. Don't get creative and do any flushes or trying to pump it out under power. I've seen guys do damage that way by sucking air. Truck should be off when drained till filled again.
However, I'm not sure if the new fluid will cure my problems?
So I was thinking of replacing the valve body and/or the solenoids? Or should I try to flush it twice with the new oil first? What do you think?
It drives fine so far and also shifts nicely from 1st into 2nd. But when rolling in 2nd, and the engine RPM go below 1000rpm, the re-engagement is harsh with a slight "bang".
Thanks for any help, wouldn't want to waste my money on a valve body and solenoids, but also don't want to do the work twice...