I jacked up the front end (w/ wheels off of the ground) and attempted to crank the torsion bolts but was fighting with rust and they were not budging. Did several rounds of pb blaster, heat, + wire brush but still can't turn the bolts using a breaker + long cheater bar. I was tempted to try to break it loose using impact. Will I risk any damage using that vs breaker + cheater bar?

 

Might break off the bolts, but, that could happen regardless of what tool you use. Might try loosening them first, just to get them to move, then work 'em back and forth.

 

Light tap (repeated for a couple minutes) with a hammer (not a BFH) on the bolt head tends to help. I use an old 4 oz ball peen hammer I inherited, but an 8oz hammer will work. You're not trying to mushroom the head, just vibrate the bolt in the nut.

 

Well, was able to get the driver's side bolt moving but no luck on the passenger side. My little pancake compressor wasnt enough to make the bolt budge @ all. Paranoid I'm going to snap the bolt using breaker + extension. Was thinking about getting a torsion bar unloading tool (clamp), using that to brace the key, and removing the bolt + nut. Figured I would just swap out with a new bolt and adjusting nut. Does this seem feasible?

 

Are you trying to remove them? Or install them? Either way, unloading the front suspension will make your life easier. Chemicals help too. (PB Blaster, or similar)

 

i want to remove the adjuster bolt + nut. I believe the nut is too rusted to allow the bolt to spin. Was thinking if I can't clean up the adjuster nut threads I would replace it. P/o lowered the truck so the torsion key is sitting on the adjuster nut with no exposed threads from the bolt. I have used heat, wire brush, and pb blaster. I got the d/s turning but the p/s won't budge. Have been soaking in pb blaster a couple times a week for about a month and still no dice.

 

Hit it with an impact. If it breaks, replace the key.