2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta
What, ignition is not important now? Yes, really! Plugs are cheap. All 8 plugs don't have to go bad to cause an idle issue, and it wouldn't be money wasted, since he is "well overdue."
Sigh....if you're gonna fire the cannon, don't start with the most expensive parts first. You could have rented a fuel pressure tester for free (when you return it).
Back when I tested my fuel pump at 320K, it turned out to be a bad relay. You can try swapping with another (such as fan relay, etc.). You can do that for free, 2 seconds under the hood.
Also, aftermarket TPS (if that's what you got) can mess with these Dodges.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ng-320k-4.html
Sigh....if you're gonna fire the cannon, don't start with the most expensive parts first. You could have rented a fuel pressure tester for free (when you return it).
Back when I tested my fuel pump at 320K, it turned out to be a bad relay. You can try swapping with another (such as fan relay, etc.). You can do that for free, 2 seconds under the hood.
Also, aftermarket TPS (if that's what you got) can mess with these Dodges. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ng-320k-4.html
Last edited by Dodgevity; Aug 14, 2023 at 09:02 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 276
Likes: 11
when I sprayed the first time nothing happened. I had already bought the fuel pump anyway so I just went ahead and put it on. It was a pain to do by myself but I got it done lol. I cleaned the iac yesterday also and it did nothing. Idk what it could be now. Checked fuses and everything.
If so was there a change is symptoms?
If it didn't start and run normal for a few seconds, then it is leaning towards an ignition fault and not fuel delivery (the spray can was a 'fake' fuel source, ant it seems like that test failed to produce a 'clue'
Now, start by checking for fuses related to ignition.
You could also check to see if you are getting power at an ignition coil (any coil) the way this works is that every coil gets constant 12 vdc power and then the computer provides a trigger to make them fire at the correct time in engine rotation (ignition timing).
Using a loose spark plug or pull a spark plug ( or while you are replacing the whole set... ) but we want to connect a spark plug and then while someone is cranking the engine, looking to see if a spark is observed.... Oh, but you said it coughs and catches while stomping on the fuel pedal...
*Try to find a tutorial on testing the TPS. It should be a simple sweep rheostat and perhaps it is as simple as using a digital mulitmeter and observing it as the sensor sweeps through its full range of movement.
**Fly by wire... the throttle body is robotic. can you observe if the throttle butterfly valve is moving? Maybe remove some of the airbox plumbing to be able to view the throttle to see if it is moving at all? You may need a helper, to crank while you observe to see if it moves, and does it move smoothly or erratically. Maybe a fault in the pedal, the wires, or the TB...
BUT don't start putting these parts on before you test to see where the fault is. It would probably save you money to just go buy another vehicle...
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Joined: Aug 2023
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Did you do it more than once?
If so was there a change is symptoms?
If it didn't start and run normal for a few seconds, then it is leaning towards an ignition fault and not fuel delivery (the spray can was a 'fake' fuel source, ant it seems like that test failed to produce a 'clue'
Now, start by checking for fuses related to ignition.
You could also check to see if you are getting power at an ignition coil (any coil) the way this works is that every coil gets constant 12 vdc power and then the computer provides a trigger to make them fire at the correct time in engine rotation (ignition timing).
Using a loose spark plug or pull a spark plug ( or while you are replacing the whole set... ) but we want to connect a spark plug and then while someone is cranking the engine, looking to see if a spark is observed.... Oh, but you said it coughs and catches while stomping on the fuel pedal...
*Try to find a tutorial on testing the TPS. It should be a simple sweep rheostat and perhaps it is as simple as using a digital mulitmeter and observing it as the sensor sweeps through its full range of movement.
**Fly by wire... the throttle body is robotic. can you observe if the throttle butterfly valve is moving? Maybe remove some of the airbox plumbing to be able to view the throttle to see if it is moving at all? You may need a helper, to crank while you observe to see if it moves, and does it move smoothly or erratically. Maybe a fault in the pedal, the wires, or the TB...
BUT don't start putting these parts on before you test to see where the fault is. It would probably save you money to just go buy another vehicle...
If so was there a change is symptoms?
If it didn't start and run normal for a few seconds, then it is leaning towards an ignition fault and not fuel delivery (the spray can was a 'fake' fuel source, ant it seems like that test failed to produce a 'clue'
Now, start by checking for fuses related to ignition.
You could also check to see if you are getting power at an ignition coil (any coil) the way this works is that every coil gets constant 12 vdc power and then the computer provides a trigger to make them fire at the correct time in engine rotation (ignition timing).
Using a loose spark plug or pull a spark plug ( or while you are replacing the whole set... ) but we want to connect a spark plug and then while someone is cranking the engine, looking to see if a spark is observed.... Oh, but you said it coughs and catches while stomping on the fuel pedal...
*Try to find a tutorial on testing the TPS. It should be a simple sweep rheostat and perhaps it is as simple as using a digital mulitmeter and observing it as the sensor sweeps through its full range of movement.
**Fly by wire... the throttle body is robotic. can you observe if the throttle butterfly valve is moving? Maybe remove some of the airbox plumbing to be able to view the throttle to see if it is moving at all? You may need a helper, to crank while you observe to see if it moves, and does it move smoothly or erratically. Maybe a fault in the pedal, the wires, or the TB...
BUT don't start putting these parts on before you test to see where the fault is. It would probably save you money to just go buy another vehicle...