Check Engine Light
Check engine light has been on for a couple of days. I called the dealer and the want $70 to just diagnose the problem (rip off).
I went to local auto parts store and got the codes.
1) 0442
2) 0455
Now the guy at the parts store said both were related to fuel delivery. He suggested that I start with a new gas cap, and that might remedy 1 if not both problems.
Now he said the 0442 was a 'small' vacuum problem and the 0455 was a 'gross' vacuum problem. Now, I like parts guys, but some are just not the sharpest tool in the shed. He said the gross one could be a vent or a problem with the filler spout to the gas tank.
He also said that it may take several days to reset the check engine light, actually he used the word 'cycle', meaning bring the truck up to normal temps and then cooling down to reset the light/codes. This sounded weird to me, anyone have any info on this.
The device I used to get the codes had a 'reset' button on it, but he told me not to use that.
It looks like I will have to go back in a couple of days and have the code(s) dumped again if the light does not go away.
Any additional info would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks,
Klute
I went to local auto parts store and got the codes.
1) 0442
2) 0455
Now the guy at the parts store said both were related to fuel delivery. He suggested that I start with a new gas cap, and that might remedy 1 if not both problems.
Now he said the 0442 was a 'small' vacuum problem and the 0455 was a 'gross' vacuum problem. Now, I like parts guys, but some are just not the sharpest tool in the shed. He said the gross one could be a vent or a problem with the filler spout to the gas tank.
He also said that it may take several days to reset the check engine light, actually he used the word 'cycle', meaning bring the truck up to normal temps and then cooling down to reset the light/codes. This sounded weird to me, anyone have any info on this.
The device I used to get the codes had a 'reset' button on it, but he told me not to use that.
It looks like I will have to go back in a couple of days and have the code(s) dumped again if the light does not go away.
Any additional info would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks,
Klute
They can't just erase the codes as it is illegal unless done at a repair facility after it has been repaired.
I think it is your gas cap as well. When was the last time you filled up? I'd just put the original cap back on and let it click 4-5 times after it is tight. It might take a few days for it to go out, or you can just disconnect the battery for a while and reconnect.
How old is your truck? Is it not under warranty?
I think it is your gas cap as well. When was the last time you filled up? I'd just put the original cap back on and let it click 4-5 times after it is tight. It might take a few days for it to go out, or you can just disconnect the battery for a while and reconnect.
How old is your truck? Is it not under warranty?
Thanks.
I did buy a new gas cap, so I will just go with it for now.
It's an 02 with 47K miles. It was before the 7year/70K mi warranty deal was offered. (I think, I bought it used)
So, the light will just magically go off?
Disconnect the (+) or (-) pole?
I did buy a new gas cap, so I will just go with it for now.
It's an 02 with 47K miles. It was before the 7year/70K mi warranty deal was offered. (I think, I bought it used)
So, the light will just magically go off?
Disconnect the (+) or (-) pole?
I am in the northeast and Autozone provides free scaning and will provide a list of possible solutions. Everytime they have scan my vechicles, they have offered to clear the codes (and light). The gas cap is a common solution and normally a cheaop on at that. By having them clear the code, you would know within a few miles whether you solved the problem. I know on my Lincoln, the dealer scan is more detailed than the generic ones at the parts store so you have to decide if you want to spend the dollars.
I go the simple route first.
I go the simple route first.
Grrr-----
I replaced the gas cap, filled the tank twice, disconnected the battery (screwed up the alarm system) and the check engine light never went away. I went back to the auto parts store and ran another check, now the %^&*#@! thing has a new different code: "P1494 Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault"
Dude at the parts store says that is a mfg specific code and can only be repaired by the dealer.....
Anyone ever have this code and more importantly, how much did it cost to fix it?
I replaced the gas cap, filled the tank twice, disconnected the battery (screwed up the alarm system) and the check engine light never went away. I went back to the auto parts store and ran another check, now the %^&*#@! thing has a new different code: "P1494 Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault"
Dude at the parts store says that is a mfg specific code and can only be repaired by the dealer.....
Anyone ever have this code and more importantly, how much did it cost to fix it?
FYI...
3rd gen rams will kick out their own codes by turning the key to "on" 3 times without turning to "start". Just look at the digital odometer readout..it will give you a "P" code.
3rd gen rams will kick out their own codes by turning the key to "on" 3 times without turning to "start". Just look at the digital odometer readout..it will give you a "P" code.
unhook your battery and reset your computer. If there truly is a problem the light will come back on, then I would go to the dealer or shop. If it doesn't come back on I wouldn't really worry about it.
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Thanks, I will try that and see what happens.
I did clean my K&N filter a couple of weeks and did not relate that to the engine light coming on. Maybe I pulled a hose loose then, I will check.
Thanks.
I did clean my K&N filter a couple of weeks and did not relate that to the engine light coming on. Maybe I pulled a hose loose then, I will check.
Thanks.
Well, I dropped it off at the dealer this AM.
Just spoke with the shop guy and he said that there were several EVAP hoses that were cracked and needed replacing.
He also said there was another code for the condensor motor.
Both repairs add up to ONLY $560.
Not very happy with it, but what ya gonna do?
Just spoke with the shop guy and he said that there were several EVAP hoses that were cracked and needed replacing.
He also said there was another code for the condensor motor.
Both repairs add up to ONLY $560.
Not very happy with it, but what ya gonna do?



