I need to hear from people who have purchased this...i do not plan on purchasing this, rather want to know how to build my own...i'm not spening $30 on a .89 cent resistor and some heat shrink, i have that stuff at my house as it is, but if anyone could give me the scoop on how to build one of these or how they work (as in performance) i know how they work...thanks.

 

Get a resistor... and cut your factory harness and install the resistor inline.

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

 

why would i have to cut the harness...doesn't the resistor plug into where the air temp sensor is now? is it a 4.7k-ohm 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance resistor?

 

I don't know what this product is. What are you trying to do? Change the signal coming from the temp sensor so that the computer thinks the air is colder than it is?

 

yea the air ram PW uses a resistor to "trick" the computer into thinking the air temp. is 20 degrees cooler...i just went and bought some resistors, but my question for air ram, if he will tell me, is with this mod. does the truck really still need the actual air temp. sensor? wouldnt it be possible to just leave that sensor in the intake and put the resistor in the port where the temp. sensor used to be? that sounds like the only plausible way to do it, id love to buy a PW from air ram, but i do not have $30 for that right now...so i fugured i'd do it myself...

 

this sounds like another one of those 'e-bay specials'. You can buy resistors as well as instructions on how to fool the IAT sensor and in reality it really does work. What they don't tell you is that it will only work for a few minutes max; unless your reset the PCM. The PCM will take the faulty readings and continue working as though the air were 20 degrees colder. It will compensate and force more fuel into the combustion chambers. After a while the PCM will start to catch on that it's been fooled because of the over-richness of the fuel mix and will set itself back to somewhere normal.

 

well if that's true, then all these people that have it are being tricked...they said they can tell the 10hp difference? someone else chime in on this

 

This doesn't seem right. Wouldn't this mess with the timing along with the A/F mixture.

 

Well if your out to JUMP your plug with a resistor (BAD!) then your computer WILL learn something is not right. NO the POWER WIRE does NOT jump the plug like you described. The POWER WIRE mounts between your plug and your sensor and changes the signal to the PCM to read 20 degrees cooler at ALL TIMES meaning it allows the PCM to adjust constantly to the intake air temps ..

If you JUMP the plug with a resistor (Like the EBAY RIP OFF) there is NO WAY your computer can adjust to the air temps... so at times you will be lean and other times you will be rich... so removing the sensor like that mod does is BAD and like mentioned above the PCM will learn it and then STOP refering to the sensor and throw a code. Because the POWER WIRE alters the voltage to the PCM is will always give a reading that’s 20 degrees cooler than actual. So if your Air intake temps are 88 degrees the PW will make the PCM think the air temps are 68 degrees...and if the air temps are 97 degrees the PW will make the PCM think its 77 degrees... . There is NO WAY your computer would know different and it will NOT adjust to this mod... YES if you use resistance that’s too high and the computer will learn something is wrong and will set a code. We have chosen a resistance thats PERFECT for daily driving and its worth 8-10 HP for a PLUG & PLAY mod that you can remove/install at will in seconds.

What the POWER WIRE does is advance your timing through out the RPM range and at WOT it will cause the PCM to add 2% more fuel... You can do this mod on your own but to do it corectly you will have to cut ONE of your wires going to your sensor and add the resistor... but when you take it into service your dealership will NOT like this mod... with the POWER WIRE its PLUG & PLAY and you can remove it before service and they will have no idea it was there.

There is a BIG difference between JUMPING the plug and REMOVING the sensor from the circuit and running the POWER WIRE which works with your sensor to give a constant 20 degree difference... Your computer NEEDS to be able to adjust to the actual intake air temps to make the most power... if you remove your sensor you lose this ability.

I have had my dealership plug up the OBD2 scaner to look at the difference and they did note that the PW did change the signal and NO codes where tripped. After returning 2 weeks later they did it again and there was still a 20 degree difference between ACTUAL intake air temps with the PW installed. So the computer does NOT learn this mod.


If your going to do it on your own... do it right!

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

 

thanks man...