Week one with new rotors and pads.
#1
Week one with new rotors and pads.
I bought some drilled and slotted rotors from ebay. (Race Concepts?) and some Bendix pads from advance auto. I seated the pads per directions from Hemi truck club. So far no difference in brake feel except I don't have a warped rotor anymore. They look cool through the wheel though.
#2
RE: Week one with new rotors and pads.
New brakes from auto parts store: $30
New rotors from E-bay: $100
Non warped braking: PRICELESS
Sorry, couldn't help myself. I think I starting to feel a little warping when I'm gently on the brakes. Hopefully they can last another 5K or so before I have to shell out the money for another set.
New rotors from E-bay: $100
Non warped braking: PRICELESS
Sorry, couldn't help myself. I think I starting to feel a little warping when I'm gently on the brakes. Hopefully they can last another 5K or so before I have to shell out the money for another set.
#3
RE: Week one with new rotors and pads.
I went all the way around so, $210 and $100.
ORIGINAL: osteodoc08
New brakes from auto parts store: $30
New rotors from E-bay: $100
Non warped braking: PRICELESS
Sorry, couldn't help myself. I think I starting to feel a little warping when I'm gently on the brakes. Hopefully they can last another 5K or so before I have to shell out the money for another set.
New brakes from auto parts store: $30
New rotors from E-bay: $100
Non warped braking: PRICELESS
Sorry, couldn't help myself. I think I starting to feel a little warping when I'm gently on the brakes. Hopefully they can last another 5K or so before I have to shell out the money for another set.
#7
RE: Week one with new rotors and pads.
Drilled rotors are prone to cracking under extreme use... They do cool better though.
Slotted only are recommended for serious racing.
Uneven lug nut torque/ improper technique is a major cause of warping.
I always tighten lug nuts in proper sequence in 4 steps, light hand tight, 1/3, 2/3, then full torque. Always with no weight on the wheel. If the wheel wants to turn under full torque, you can chock it with a block of wood, etc. An air gun is to be avoided...
Slotted only are recommended for serious racing.
Uneven lug nut torque/ improper technique is a major cause of warping.
I always tighten lug nuts in proper sequence in 4 steps, light hand tight, 1/3, 2/3, then full torque. Always with no weight on the wheel. If the wheel wants to turn under full torque, you can chock it with a block of wood, etc. An air gun is to be avoided...
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#8
RE: Week one with new rotors and pads.
I agree! How many times have you had to take the wheel off only to find out that the last idiot that put them on when buying new tires put them on with an air compressor and you literraly have to be Superman to get the nuts off??? And HEAVEN help you if you don't have a 4 way lug wrench handy and are dressed in some nice clothes. Nothin I hate more than getting dirty when you can avoid it!!!