I can tell you that the Bighorn quad cab at EP I bought was 1800 dollars under invoice, +3500 cash allowance, which ended with me paying 5300 bucks under invoice cost. Truck was a little more than 9k under msrp.

 

I would have to do my own research in order to confirm it, but my impression is that the, so called, EP is, at least for the most part, a gimmick. I have seen posts on here where some people have paid over invoice for a vehicle, but I am on my 3rd Dodge truck, and have never paid above invoice price for one. In my opinion, you are not getting a real deal if you are not paying at least $500.00 under invoice.

As to what anyone is paying using the EP, I really don't know, but the price that I got the last time I traded was $700.00 below invoice, and then they tacked on the incentives that were in force after that. I did have to finance for the 3.8%, as you could not get the incentives and the 0% both at the time I traded.

I am always suspicious of any pricing where a dealer is telling me that this price is set by the manufacturer and they can't come off of it. I don't care if it is EP, or whatever they want to call it, I would walk at least one time on any dealer, I shopped 4 dealers the last time before one decided to see things my way. It may very well be that I would have to end up paying what they were offering, but it would be after about 4 or 5 different dealers told me the same thing.

 

I joined this site just to answer this question so no one gets screwed by a dealer.

I have received the employee pricing since I bought my first new car (1998 Dodge Avenger) back in 1997. My father was retired from Chrysler.

True EP pricing takes out all the holdback, and all of Chryslers advertising fees.....those nice commercials you see and pamphlets you get about your dream vehicle aren't free. A dealer actually looses money when selling a vehicle to a true Chrysler employee. The dealer has to suck up the loss for the length of time this vehicle has sat on the lot, because most dealers have the vehicle financed through banks and do not own the vehicle outright, so every day it sits on the lot they incur interest.

In a previous post, someone stated look for the EP on the invoice...this is true, it will not have a $ sign or decimal, it will look something like this EP 23789, and is normally located in the middle of the invoice towards the bottom. It is like this so the dealer can show a normal customer the wholesale price, and say they are getting at EP price. Make sure you see the invoice!!! See the dealer can’t even get the vehicle at the EP price, they have to purchase it at wholesale. The true EP price is a benefit for Chrysler employees and there family members. Chrysler will send the dealer a check for the difference at a later date for there loss. Also if the dealer is offering true EP then any rebates come off after the EP for example EP is $23,789 and there is a $3000 rebate then the starting price of the vehicle will be $20,789.

Most vehicles on average are marked up approximately 13% from EP however some may be higher or lower. Also as said in a previous post there is no room to haggle, unless your window sticker has an added sticker to the side, for something the dealer has added like a car care package, you can get them to knock this off if they really want to sell the vehicle. As far as the trade if you are trading, the dealer is going to give you wholesale for your vehicle, because this is where they are going to make there money. Best bet is to sell out right. Also if they are offering 0% financing, you are probably going to loose the rebate on the vehicle. If you can get pre approved and walk into the dealer with a bank check, this is the easiest and best way to purchase a vehicle. If the dealer gets you financed, they are going to get a percentage of the loan. Don’t get me wrong you need to figure if 0% financing is better than the rebate, and you also need to figure if you like a new vehicle every 3 years, then you would want to take the rebate.

Now for my last input! Don’t get me wrong, I like having new vehicles....the smell is what sucks me in every time and I know the vehicle hasn’t been abused. However, when you turn that key and Drive it off the lot, you have a used vehicle. Just a thought to think about.

 

This is about the same as with mine. Only diiference is $1000 behind invoice, company sponsored price, with 2500 factory rebate

 

Why can't they just use every day low pricing on vehicles? I mean, you buy a TV you pay the stores price, you buy a steak, you pay the stores price....I think the biggest misleading scam dealers use are the "loss leader" newspaper/TV ad's....In some cases I've heard these vehicles are sold before the ad ever breaks.

 

I agree, how ever the new car/truck market is not consistant, inflation, flue cost's/ manufactering cost's, every time the united auto workers get a raise, or go on strike, ect, are vairables that have to be adresses before sales cost's or EMP pricing is facterd.

Chrysler will most likely brake even with employee pricing, the dealer is the one who make's the profit if you trade up, Part's/service, Referal's, extra life insurance, extra warenty's, dealer adminstrative fees.

Bottom line is the dealers and daimler chrysler adjust thier prices at will, what profit's they lose can be wrote off.
Pay your price and not the dealers, yes chrysler is not going to stay in the buis by selling thier products at a loss, but you are the consumer who's paying, you have the cash that the dealers want.

 

when i bought my ram when i was workin at the dealership, i got my truck at $700 over MSRP...so 400-600 would seem good to me

 

You didn't do your homework, your own dealership screwed you. Just think what they do to the average buyer.

 

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sorry, i was thinkin of something else. Looked back through my files and my DCX LLC Invoice and i actually only paid $50 over employee price. dont know what in the world i was thinkin the other day, lol. sorry bout the confusion guys lol
MSRP on this truck was $33,300. EP was $28555.