call around to some paintless dent removal places and some bodyshops. my best guess would be under 100 bucks, if it is smaller and doesn't have too sharp of edges. in my experience the body shops in smaller towns usually have great work with low prices since they have to live on their reputation and must be affordable. But no matter where you go, make sure to get multiple estimates first; estimates are free, and can actually vary by quite a bit from place to place.

 

yo if there is no paint removed from where u were hit then i would go the way of a paintless dent remover they do good work

 

First of all...PDR can't remove ALL dents especially on body lines....second of all using a compound to start out with isnt the right choice...always start with a cleaner wax...start less aggressive and end more aggresive that way you ensure you have not taken off too many mils of clearcoat...third alot of times if the badges (emblems) will actually protect the paint under it leaving an impression and most of the times take a little bit of sanding and finesse work to get out....fourth, to get off pinstripes and two way tape use a drill and an eraser pad, works great as long as you dont put much weight into the drill...these are all experiences that i've had...i often use lacquer thinner or a heat gun also (along with a razor blade) but i dont recommend that unless you're comfortable with working with paint (soft paint that is) i have never actually used goo gone i just use things available around my body shop...also a pint of paint usually runs around $40 for diamont paint more if has a red tint in it, upwards of $90 for red, and that is body shop price...so if they're actually using a good product then you have to expect more than $100 for ANY dent considering the metal working, metal glaze, primer, sealer, paint, clearcoat, and also buffing it out, not to mention tinting or blending the color...IF you expect it to be done right

 

Well, I WAS about to start the process of debadging mine, but now I'm not so sure. Is there a fool-proof way to go about doing this? I hear that getting the badges hot with a hair dryer then using 30# test fishing line to "saw" the badges off is best, and I've also heard getting them cold with an ice cube is best. Anyone know what IS best? And once that's done, I don't want to have issues with my paint.

OldVOR says, "Now, the best approach to removing any adhesive residue left on the paint from taking off the badges is to make a ball from the double-sided foam tape and press the ball onto the residual adhesive left on the paint. The ball of double sided tape will lift the adhesive right off the paint and leave a perfectly clean surface that can then be cleaned and waxed."

Is that the BEST way to get the rest of the crap off without hurting the finish? And what about "shadowing?" My truck's an '02 so it's seen it's fair share of sun light. Is that gonna have an adverse effect on my upcoming project? Thanks for any and all help!

 

debadging is fine but DONT WORK IT INTO THE PAINT! that was the problem, my friend worked the goo-be-gone into the paint and screwed it up. Just be careful and you should be fine.

 

another sidenote-they make adhesive removers specifically for automotive finishes. The won't dull or fade the clearcoat.