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new 2500 Q's

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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 10:57 AM
  #1  
Tampa4x4paver's Avatar
Tampa4x4paver
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Default new 2500 Q's

got some questions about buying a new (or used) 2500 4x4 diesel Auto Xcab. First off, Hello to all! Firt timer on this board. Long time wheeler and fabricator. I currently have a very custom built '94 4runner. Dana 44 SAS, lockers F&R, 5.29 gears, rock crawler springs, CV shafts, Custom drivetrain lift, 3" gas tank lift ETC! Anywhoo, I'm looking at going from a fully built runner that I drive everyday to a less mod'd dodge 3/4ton diesel 4x4. b/c I'll use it for work more and it'll be better to drive daily and on trips. I do all my own fab work and welding. I just don't know much about dodges in general, but am eager to learn. Just looking for some tech info before I go buy. Hope you guys can point me in the right direction.

My ultimate goal for this truck is detroit lockers F&R, maybe gears?, 35"-37" tires, 16.5K Warn winch... and maybe a small lift 4" (NOT BODY LIFT! lol)?. I want the truck to be very streetable and emissions legal in all states and bumper height legal for most states. AS far as engine performance goes, NO upgrading turbos etc. just bolt on stuff like a cat-back or full turbo-back exhaust. and Probly a Trans cooler & (temp guage.) I want to wheel it on weekends and drive/work it on weekdays. And I don't want to blow all my money and time on it like I have my 4runner.... don't mind it on the 4runner, just don't wanna do it again. lifes changing. I'm more interested in getting better Fuel economy than I am power upgrades. so i'm not exactly power hungry. my runner has 150Hp. I plan on driving it like my runner..... slow... and easy.

A- Looking at either a 00-'02 (old body) or maybe a used new body... or maybe a brand new '06/'07. Are there any advantages to one over the other as far as driveline, trans, or engine go? I want to keep it under 75K miles if i go used.

B- what axles come under these things? I heard D60 front, and either a dana 70 or 80 rear. true or not?

C- I want an Auto (currently rock crawl my 5spd and drive it daily!). Are any years better than others? Is there only 1 trans avail? what is it?

D- Can I put manual hubs on the front easily? I don't like the idea of my front axle turning at 80mph!

Thanks in advance guys.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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macremo98's Avatar
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Default RE: new 2500 Q's

Someone in the Cummins forum could probably help you out. Drew comes to mind- he seems to know a heck of a lot about 2500 CTDs.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 02:11 PM
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Default RE: new 2500 Q's

thought I heard my name

anyway, that 4 burner sounds pretty sick. Ive got a 98 taco that Ive done some things to, it's amazing what these things can do and the punishment they can take and still run like a swiss clock

anyhoo, on question A. if I were someone new to diesels I would kinda shy away from the 98.5-02 trucks. there are issues with the lift pumps that still hasnt been fully adressed even with the newer engines, but things are getting better. second the Bosch VP44 injector pump is weak. when the lift pump goes out the VP44 is not far behind. it is like a bad rendition of Romeo and Juliet. when the Lift pump dies the VP44 is starved for fuel, the VP44 is lubricated by diesel fuel, lubrication and cooling goes away and well, since your a fabricator you know what happens then. last would be the '53' block that ran from 99-sometime in 01, the water jacket on the exhaust side was thin and would crack, just do a google search or search on here since the subject came up a few times and read up why I'm trying to steer you away from 98.5-02 trucks. Now they are good, and at a last resort thay are good trucks, but again, last resort.

the best years are 94-98.4 and 03 and up. the 94-98.4 uses the P7100 injector pump that JUST WILL NOT DIE, and thats a good thing. the pump can be cranked up VERY easy and you can make mad power for cheap. starting in 03 the new HPCR engine appeared. this engine is pretty good, it runs off the Bosch CP3 pump which so far has proven to be very reliable. you can get plug and play modules that can increase power dramaticaly, or give a very small bump and give better fuel economy. this is what most do, but it is too tempting to turn up the juice and smoke that mustang sitting next to you (I'm guilty of this and I have a 6 spd he he he[8D]) If you are going used, I personaly would steer you twards the 03-05 years.

B. The axels on 94-02's are the DANA 60's on the front and the 70's or 80's depending on if you have the 2500 or 3500. in 03 the axels changed over to the American Axel Corporation. if you get the 4x4 the front axel will be the AAM 9.25 and the rear will be the AAM 11.5, in 03 and early 04's you might see the 10.5 rear's on the 2wd 2500's and possably some 4x4 2500's. I have an 04.5 and I have a 11.5 rear. the rear end on these trucks run a bit different than the DANA's where clutches are used. the AAM LSD runs off of worm gears and works surprizingly well. so well I left 4 different skid marks when I did a 3rd gear 8# boosted launch

C. if you get an 03 and up you will get the 48RE, and asside from it realy needing a good valve body, torque converter, and deeper pan to become a realy good tranny, it's not that bad and will handle the engine very well in stock form. Up the power and you will need to do these things at a minimum. if you get into the 00's and 02's you will get the 47re or the 47rh and these have issues will proper oiling of the rear thrust brearings, some of the first runs of the 48re's had this same issue but it was quickly fixed. the 94-98.4's had either the 727's, 46rh's or the 46re(I think). they have their issues of not circulating tranny fluid in reverse which will let the torque converter run low on fluid and cavitate it.

D. you can put manual hubs in the AAM 9.25's but it aint cheap, I pulled the covers off my axels not long ago to change the fluid and things looked very good even though the front is constantly turning.

hope this helps
 
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