Spark plug change details
#1
Spark plug change details
I finally got around to changing my plugs on the 04 hemi. It really wasn't that bad. I figured I would post some details here as I remember people asking about how to change them. I was one of them. Here is what I did.
First make sure the truck is cool. It is no fun doing this on a hot motor.
Next remove the hemi hat. Do this by unclipping the air box lid, unplugging the IAT sensor (under the front of the hat just to the passenger side of center), unclipping the wire harness (pull the clip off the hat just to the right of the IAT), and loosening the 2 10mm bolts visible from the front of the hat. You then just wiggle the whole thing and pull it up and toward you. It pops off easy and exposes the whole top of the motor. This takes 1 minute, 1 tool, and saves you lotsa time.
I swapped out my plug wires for shorties so I unplugged all the ends and popped the 4 clips and pulled the whole mess out. If you aren't changing wires, just unplug them and label them.
The easy side is the passenger side. This is a good place to start. The only thing in the way was the EGR tube but it isn't too bad. I did these one cylinder at a time front to back. I used a 3/8" ratchet, u-joint, 3" extension, locking 6" extension, 10mm socket, and spark plug socket. Just pull the plug wire ends and loosen the 2 bolts holding the coil packs on. The bolts will stay in the coil packs for you. Just wiggle the pack loose and it comes out. You may have to rotate it to clear the other parts.
The driver's side is a little harder and looks really bad but it actually took me less time than the passenger side because I learned a few tricks from the other side. First thing I would suggest doing is remove all the coil packs front to rear as this gives you extra clearance to do the plugs. Since the brake booster is in your way you need all the room you can get. Just use the ratchet and socket to loosen all the bolts then pull all the packs. For the plugs I used the short extension with the u-joint and the socket and it is tight but it fits. You just bend the u-joint so the extension is at a right angle to the socket and slip the socket into the hole straightening the u-joint as it goes down in the hole. By the time you get it to lock onto the plug, the extension is straight and sticks out enough to put the ratchet on. You change all the plugs and then start putting all the rest together. Start at the back and do the plug wire first then the coil. Work your way forward and you will be done before you know it.
Put the hat back on and try it out. Remember to use dielectric grease on the plug ceramics and the boots and it will go pretty easy.
I was really worried about this. I have been putting this off for 10k miles. The truck was running fine but I had noticed a little decrease in mileage the last month or so. I was getting 17 in stead of 19 or 20 so I figured I needed to do it soon. This is a DIY project you CAN do. You don't need to pay the dealer or a mechanic big bucks to do this. The plugs were $50 and I got my wires on a group buy for $50. I hear the dealers and shops get $250 - $300 for this. If you don't do the wires, you could save a lot of money by spending 3 hours of your time.
Good luck.
Bob
First make sure the truck is cool. It is no fun doing this on a hot motor.
Next remove the hemi hat. Do this by unclipping the air box lid, unplugging the IAT sensor (under the front of the hat just to the passenger side of center), unclipping the wire harness (pull the clip off the hat just to the right of the IAT), and loosening the 2 10mm bolts visible from the front of the hat. You then just wiggle the whole thing and pull it up and toward you. It pops off easy and exposes the whole top of the motor. This takes 1 minute, 1 tool, and saves you lotsa time.
I swapped out my plug wires for shorties so I unplugged all the ends and popped the 4 clips and pulled the whole mess out. If you aren't changing wires, just unplug them and label them.
The easy side is the passenger side. This is a good place to start. The only thing in the way was the EGR tube but it isn't too bad. I did these one cylinder at a time front to back. I used a 3/8" ratchet, u-joint, 3" extension, locking 6" extension, 10mm socket, and spark plug socket. Just pull the plug wire ends and loosen the 2 bolts holding the coil packs on. The bolts will stay in the coil packs for you. Just wiggle the pack loose and it comes out. You may have to rotate it to clear the other parts.
The driver's side is a little harder and looks really bad but it actually took me less time than the passenger side because I learned a few tricks from the other side. First thing I would suggest doing is remove all the coil packs front to rear as this gives you extra clearance to do the plugs. Since the brake booster is in your way you need all the room you can get. Just use the ratchet and socket to loosen all the bolts then pull all the packs. For the plugs I used the short extension with the u-joint and the socket and it is tight but it fits. You just bend the u-joint so the extension is at a right angle to the socket and slip the socket into the hole straightening the u-joint as it goes down in the hole. By the time you get it to lock onto the plug, the extension is straight and sticks out enough to put the ratchet on. You change all the plugs and then start putting all the rest together. Start at the back and do the plug wire first then the coil. Work your way forward and you will be done before you know it.
Put the hat back on and try it out. Remember to use dielectric grease on the plug ceramics and the boots and it will go pretty easy.
I was really worried about this. I have been putting this off for 10k miles. The truck was running fine but I had noticed a little decrease in mileage the last month or so. I was getting 17 in stead of 19 or 20 so I figured I needed to do it soon. This is a DIY project you CAN do. You don't need to pay the dealer or a mechanic big bucks to do this. The plugs were $50 and I got my wires on a group buy for $50. I hear the dealers and shops get $250 - $300 for this. If you don't do the wires, you could save a lot of money by spending 3 hours of your time.
Good luck.
Bob