Last week I noticed the rear differential on my 2004 Ram QC 4X4 was showing oil/lube stains. I took it to the dealer and they put it up on the rack and diagnosed it as a faulty pinion seal. There was no noise coming from the rear end and the Maintenance Tech said it was okay to drive, as the leak was minimal and gear lube level was ok. This part was replaced today by the dealership. $58 out the door.

Anybody out there experienced this problem? While driving along behind other trucks out there on the road, I've noticed others with the same oily differentials.

 

I just had the pinon seal replaced in mine last week also. I have an 04 quad cab 4x4. Mine was still under warranty, barely 35,800.

 

10-4 HEMI TOUGH, Mine just rolled 52,000 miles. Nothing wrong with the drivetrain, but when I spotted the greasy stains it kinda worried me.

 

I had my pinion seal replaced under warrenty and they did it wrong, 1000 miles later the read-end was trashed, replaced that under warrenty and everything is OK now.

 

Mine is leaking a little also, was wondering if it's a DIY job as I don't have time to take it to the dealer.
Anyone done it care to give a two liner on how to do it ?
Any special tools required ? what size nut is the pinion to drive shaft coupling ?
Is it left or right hand ?
can I just pick out the old seal and tap in a new one ?

2003 QC hemi 2wd

 

Dodge has had pinion seal problems on the 9.25 differential since at least model year 1995.

In the 1980s this differential did not have seal problems, even behind 400 cubic inch engines

The seal problem may be connected to keeping the big pinion pre-load nut at the proper torque. Chrysler presently uses locktite. It might be that the old fashioned method of 'aircraft safety wire' might be superior to the locktite.

 

Is this a DIY job ?

 

My Jeep GC had a drip.

 

I had thefront pinion and right rear axle seals replaced in mine---both were leaking

 

Replaced mine last week with just a little over 14K miles.

As far as do it yourself, yes, if you have the tools.

You will need to remove the calipers/rotors and have an inch pound tq wrench (either beam or meter or digital, NOT the clicker type) that will read from 0 to 100 inch pounds.

If you have the tools, I'll tell you how to do it so that you won't get a whine or scew up the gear geometry setup, etc.