Old thread but helpful if PEOPLE just read and understand what it is they're reading.

4.7 Has the same TICK that the 5.7 Hemi has. It is normally the exhaust manifold bolts have either came loose or have broke.
If it bothers you replace all the bolts and gaskets.
I say 99% of all the ticks are what I just added above.
The 1% could be a number of things but my guess is the exhaust bolts.

If it gets louder and faster as you drive? Well you need to look for another issue because that would be more serious.....

 

OK I have to pile on this thread. Just got my engine completely rebuilt and was getting a 'tic, tic, tic' under acceleration. Repair shop said lifters just have not pumped up yet give it a couple oil changes. 1700 miles and 3 oil changes later it still ticked so they replaced the lifters (again). Tick is still there under acceleration. Engine is quiet at idle. When it is cold it is VERY loud when driving through the neighborhood. Could it still be the lifters not pumping up? I am running 10w-30 per their recomondation. Could their be something wrong with the oil pump (also new) that is not allowing the lifters to pump up? I am at wits end with this shop.

 

CHECK your exhaust manifolds usually the right side. If they're not cracked have them replace the bolts and double check the gaskets.
4.7 and 5.7's both have that issue.
My granddad has never owned anything but Dodge trucks and he has found this to be the issue on several of his trucks.
He drives diesels now so he couldn't hear it even if it did tick...LOL

 

Had that problem a couple years back. the drivers side rear most exhaust manifold bolt snapped off. This sound is internal.

 

wow this just happened to me for the first time today this morning, i started it and i herd a knocking noise, then i turned it off and turned it back on and nothing, could that be a exhaust bolt issue as well?

 

Okay, i had the same problem on my 2005 4.7 l.
I allways used penzoil and mopar oil filter and the ticking sound on morning start up just show up.
Its like you start the truck, and after 20 sec here is the ticking sound and after 30 more sec its gone.or since the sound comes up i just rev the engine once or twice so the oil pump the trow some more oil and ticking is gone.
I just changed the oil in the dealer, its was cold out and had coupon and quest what, that
ticking sound in the morning its 80 percent gone. They just put their mopar oil and mopar oil filter and sound its gone. I think its something with the oil,during whole evening and cold nights oil draines down and becomes thick and its hard on the oil pump to bring it all the way up.truck has been good to me all these years and i like it. I love ram trucks and thats why i bough one more now.2012 ram 1500 but that hemi tick is pissing me off.

 

I googled and found this topic, and wanted to add to it.

I'm working on a 4.7 in an '03 Durango right now that came in with a crapload of racket coming from it. Worst (I thought at the time) was a bad wrist pin on #7. Pulled the head, diff, pan, checked rods for play, verified diagnosis and replaced piston and pin, re-assembled and fired it back up. Ran quiet for a few second, then got a bunch of lifter racket, with a deeper noise coming in after it warmed up, I assumed to be a rocker slapping the cam from a really bad lifter. Replaced lifters (or lash adjusters, if you prefer) as well as a couple of valve seats that didn't look good and after re-assembly, it quieted mostly except for the deeper noise after warming up, so I started doing compression tests and found that #8 was a teensy bit lower than the others, and assumed either a valve or seat (didn't see anything visibly wrong when torn down the first time), so off comes the head and to my surprise, I found that the piston had been smacking the head after it warmed up. Keep in mind that I did a hand-check for play in the rod bearings when I had the pan off the first time and all seemed perfectly fine, and oil pressure is perfect.

So, are these 4.7's prone to wrist pin failure? I've seen mention of #8 problems and noises in other places and I'm wondering if this 4.7 isn't the only one with a piston smacking the head after engine reaches operating temps.

 

After read all posts on this thread, the only thing i have to say is "DO NOT THRUST ON NEW PARTS, SPECIALLY IF THEY ARE AFTERMARKET". I bought a brand new set of timing chains, sprokets, tensioners and i install them on my durango. Everything was nice and quiet, four days later a loud ticking, tapping knocking noise starts up and with it the check engine light was set up with a p1391 "CKM or CMP sensor intermitently loss of signal". After few days working to clear the code unsusesfully i took off the right valvecover to check the sensor clearance with the tone wheel, and i just turn on the engine and i saw the chain slapping the guide really hard, shut it off and after inspect it careffuly i found the chain tensioner broken. I call back to the person that sold me the parts and they sent me another set of tensioners. Took me about 4 hours to replace them out. After put all back thogether engine was running smoth and nice again. But my surprise was a week later the noise came back on again and was the same problem, same failure, i bought a brand new set of timing set made by CLOYES, costs me about $500 bucks and after compare the chains i notice that the first "BRAND NEW CHAIN" was stretched so bad that it caused the tensioner premature failure. Engine noise was fixed after new timing set installation.

I'm a BMW master tech with 12 years of experience and i was dealing with any kind of bad situations on those cars.

I recommend to everybody to spend the money well on parts, dealership everytime offers a nice warranty on OEM parts. I use to buy electrical and engine mechanical parts from the dealership. Aftermarket parts is like a lottery some times works good some other not, and this that happens to me is an example. I usually when buying aftermarket parts use to buy racing parts that generally are better and more durable that OEM.

Thanks to everybody

 

Firts of all history. I bought the truck when it had 30K on it. Present mileage 70,495, We used Mobil 1 oil in the truck since we have owned it. This is the very first problem we have had with it at all. Without seeing all the articles other than professional mechanics recomdations about defective lash adjusters, I to am chasing a constant dead lifter noise that can be heard under the truck, amplified through the exhaust. We changed out all the lash adjusters on the left side of the engine. The engine is clean!!! Inside the valve cover , no sludge. The truck is setting a random misfire codes but we have been able to clear them but they re-appear ............ I am an ex racecar crewchief/ carowner and my friend whom is the otherowner and has been a professional wrench for the past 30 years. I am not saying we are know it alls by any means! A man that has a closed mind learns nothing! By listening to the exhaust we have determined that the random misfire is defintely there. I have read all these replies and the best possible answer in my opinion Is the carbon build up on the valves/ vlave stems causing a sticking valve problem is the area we are looking at. I am going to try the seafoam through the vaccum port trick on my 4.7. and see what happens. ...... Try this with the truck running go to the exhaust pipe when it is acting up and see if you dont hear the cylinders not hitting right.......... There again I think the carbon build up on the valve stem is causing the valve /lifter noise.... Gary In Texas

 

If you don't have any sludge buildup and the engine has been taken care of, why do you think there's a sticking valve? These engines burn pretty clean, you should pull a head and check the combustion chamber. Also, carbon buildup would have to be tremendous to cause a valve to stick open, and you'd be getting a distinct backfire out the exhaust, or the intake that would be noticeable, and since it's a mechanical problem, it would probably be much more consistent than you've indicated. Your random misfire is most likely caused by a faulty injector, wire, plug, or coil, or (less likely) a problematic ECU. Also, have you done a compression test? And if so, what were the results? It's the best way to get a point in the direction of a possible problem. A sticky valve will cause a detectable drop in compression in direct proportion to the severity of the problem (so will a bad rod bearing) in comparison to the other 7 cylinders. In this 4.7 I just tore down, the compression in #8 was about 5% lower than the other cylinders. Not dramatic, but enough to tell me that's where the problem originated.